95 Cranks but no start when COLD only, second crank attempts works.
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
95 Cranks but no start when COLD only, second crank attempts works.
Sound like fuel pressure right? Well, I have tried letting it get cold and priming the fuel pump several time with 45 psi at the rail before trying to start. Turn key over and it will crank and crank and crank for as long as you hold the key down, but wont start. Let the key go, re-attempt crank, fires RIGHT up and runs perfect, wont do it again until it sits stone cold. I think I have ruled out fuel pressure. Gonna check high and low res opti signals after it gets cold again. I am about to start the trouble shooting tree, but thought someone might have had this same problem. 95 LT1 manual, 70k miles. New FIC injectors last year. new fuel pressure regulator - to try to fix this problem, didnt help. ECT temp sensor is reading right too.
#2
Le Mans Master
I understand the FPR is new but have you checked to see if there is any fuel in the vacuum line (back into the manifold).
Have you ever checked for spark the first time you tried to crank it. That might be a clue. Perhaps the ICM is a problem
Have you ever checked for spark the first time you tried to crank it. That might be a clue. Perhaps the ICM is a problem
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
yeah, I am waiting now for it to cool off, it takes several hours, and I am going to check for spark, I too think possible icm, not sure what you mean about the fuel in the vacuum line. I know it has two slide on fuel line connectors at the fuel rail. I have full fuel pressure plus a tech two that I can pre-prime the system and FYI no codes at all and no misfire indications. Last work I had done to the car was a new a/c compressor and drier that was done just before this started but I cant see how that would affect anything. when it get cold, I am going to check for high and low opti pulse readings. I did see my TPS was at .63 which is a little high I think (.55 I think is correct) . It always cranks PERFECT on second attempt and then after. Even if my opti was going bad, it would set a DTC right?
#4
Le Mans Master
Not always, you cant count on it. I would install a noid light on an injector to see if you get an injector pulse. If there is a pulse then you can forget about the opti because it is clocking thru the low resolution pulses to drive the PCM to make the drive for the injectors.
The vacuum line is the control that regulates the fuel pressure but if the FPR leaked back thru the vacuum line, it can flood the engine.
The vacuum line is the control that regulates the fuel pressure but if the FPR leaked back thru the vacuum line, it can flood the engine.
Last edited by pcolt94; 11-25-2011 at 01:42 PM.
#8
Safety Car
My gut says electrical issue of some kind, causing a possible fuel issue.
Time will tell, subscribed.
A couple questions: does it maintain fuel pressure while cranking but not starting?
Have you checked for spark while cranking but not starting?
Have you checked for injector pulses via noid light while cranking but not starting? (most auto parts stores have noid lights for rent)
If you haven't done these why are you putting in a fuel sending unit?
Time will tell, subscribed.
A couple questions: does it maintain fuel pressure while cranking but not starting?
Have you checked for spark while cranking but not starting?
Have you checked for injector pulses via noid light while cranking but not starting? (most auto parts stores have noid lights for rent)
If you haven't done these why are you putting in a fuel sending unit?
Last edited by 93Rubie; 11-25-2011 at 10:08 PM.
#9
#10
#11
Burning Brakes