C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #21  
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Good fricking job Kubs.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kimmer
Good fricking job Kubs.
Thanks!
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Really Neat!! love the fab work... but to echo Leesvet concern;


" I'd be a little concerned about that welded stud cracking at the plate junction...."


I'd stress relieve that welded plate?? maybe 600 degrees in an oven then a nice slow cool ???


is there any arc in the position of the spindles as they move through their travel??


One last item to watch, the front drops after it all goes together. Takes a few good bounces to settle.

I have the same spring, with only the end tabs off.... it sat quite high... until the bouncing darnedest thing it just laid down??






Nice job Fun no doubt. Doing the same project with my God Son!!


TJM
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #24  
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No I have no concern with the weld cracking. The weld is actually just holding the rod in place. The plate has a slot cut in it and the rod is in it. Any load in compression or tension (highest loads the arm sees) will not put stress on the welds.

Also, there is no rubber or poly in the suspension so there is very little stiction if any. The upper control arms have heim joints and the lowers have del-a-lum bushings. The front settled slightly while rolling it back but I dont think it will settle any more.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #25  
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What are you using for a front spring? You are able to change front ride height with that set up, correct? Are you happy with the amount of adjustment you get?
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Rob31
Is that spring mt. kit new from Banski ? Pretty slick .
It is a kit from Banski MotorSports but it was intended for the rear. Interesting adaptation though.

The kit for the rear replaces the rubber or urethane donuts with a delrin hemisphere and stainless steel cap. The idea was developed with permission from Hardbar USA to use the same idea as their Pin Top Shock Mounts (which we have for C4s BTW).

I have played with a couple of different ideas for a front spring ride height adjustment kit. I have one on my car and can use it to adjust ride height and corner wieght my car if necessary. It's for use with the conventional front leaf spring whose ends ride on top of the web of the LCAs. The issue is having enough clearance to get the adjustment mechanism & screw in place and still clear the shock.

Looking good Kubs!

Last edited by astock165; Dec 2, 2011 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jimson
What are you using for a front spring? You are able to change front ride height with that set up, correct? Are you happy with the amount of adjustment you get?
The front spring is an OEM Z51 spring with the FHB code on it. By changing the way the spring mounts in the control arm (see pictures on page 1) I can adjust ride height and yes I have LOTS of adjustment available.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 12:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
No I have no concern with the weld cracking. The weld is actually just holding the rod in place. The plate has a slot cut in it and the rod is in it. Any load in compression or tension (highest loads the arm sees) will not put stress on the welds.

Also, there is no rubber or poly in the suspension so there is very little stiction if any. The upper control arms have heim joints and the lowers have del-a-lum bushings. The front settled slightly while rolling it back but I dont think it will settle any more.


Sounds like it's well thought out, but be careful.

Not playing Nanny here, but watch that thing. It isn't just steering you need to fret about. The big loads come from braking loads.

Your going to have stress on a lot of plane sections there. Parts look primo. but be cautious.

The Fhb is a Z07 spring ... they didn't come stiffer in an OEM car.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #29  
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Yeah I will be sure to keep a very close eye on it for sure! Yes the braking forces cause a moment on the arm that will try to rip it off the mounts. I did take that into account as well.

Im glad you all are asking such good questions! Makes sure I didnt forget anything.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #30  
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A+

Now if only I could enlist your assistance with my vette.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
Yeah I will be sure to keep a very close eye on it for sure! Yes the braking forces cause a moment on the arm that will try to rip it off the mounts. I did take that into account as well.

Im glad you all are asking such good questions! Makes sure I didnt forget anything.
Well, if it works.. I'll be asking how much $$$$ !!!!

It is nice work. and good [ New, Modern] C4 stuff won't be easy to find in the future.

One thing I'm still puzzled on, how did you figure the amount of castor change??? Looks like two or three degrees during the full travel??











does the spindle travel Iforward any on compression?? With thos Heims it looks like it would

TJM
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:33 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TJM
Well, if it works.. I'll be asking how much $$$$ !!!!

It is nice work. and good [ New, Modern] C4 stuff won't be easy to find in the future.

One thing I'm still puzzled on, how did you figure the amount of castor change??? Looks like two or three degrees during the full travel??

does the spindle travel Iforward any on compression?? With thos Heims it looks like it would

TJM
Im not sure I understand the question... The knuckle will always travel backwads under compression due to the angle the control arm is mounted (down toward the back) which would make the the caster change pretty much the same as OEM. It will change slightly based on the length of each arm (which is adjustable) but will ultimately be very close.

If it works I might be selling some sets based on how much I can reproduce them for. I will keep you guys informed.
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