1985 - starter motor question
#1
1985 - starter motor question
Hello,
I have a question about starters - specifically for an 85. I posted this in TECH section to get some TECH information.
I DONT (DO NOT) have a question about solenoids, hard start conditions, or anything else. I just have a question about starter motors. Please dont post anything that says buy a new starter - their cheap - autozone this or that ... or whatever. Not interested in that information.
Other than cleaning, painting and whatever, what do they do when they rebuild a starter? What fails on high mileage starter motors (brushes, bushings, the gear ???). In other words what is the end of life scenario for a STARTER MOTOR. What typically wears out after 10/15/20 years? What parts are included in a rebuild kit?
Thanks very much.
Tim
I have a question about starters - specifically for an 85. I posted this in TECH section to get some TECH information.
I DONT (DO NOT) have a question about solenoids, hard start conditions, or anything else. I just have a question about starter motors. Please dont post anything that says buy a new starter - their cheap - autozone this or that ... or whatever. Not interested in that information.
Other than cleaning, painting and whatever, what do they do when they rebuild a starter? What fails on high mileage starter motors (brushes, bushings, the gear ???). In other words what is the end of life scenario for a STARTER MOTOR. What typically wears out after 10/15/20 years? What parts are included in a rebuild kit?
Thanks very much.
Tim
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: WAY UPSTATE NY
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Brushes,Brush springs wear. Springs lose tension.Armature wears where brushes ride. Bushings etc.Bendix drive wears. You can probably get most of the parts but it will take some searching.Look in the FSM for the procedure to test the armature.
#5
Thanks again.
Tim
#7
#8
Melting Slicks
Well i had a starter fail, the number one cause no shims or clearance checks to the flex plate!!. One day while cranking the engine "Clunk whizzzzzzzzz) the alloy housing with the small gear broke
The rest of the starter was fine....... just needed another starter.
It now has the correct clearances
The other problem is the bakerlite solenoid cap gets hard and cracks when you have headers too close.
The rest of the starter was fine....... just needed another starter.
It now has the correct clearances
The other problem is the bakerlite solenoid cap gets hard and cracks when you have headers too close.
#9
Drifting
Having repaired more than a few starters, I try the test.
I'd say the number one failure is worn brushes
Number two would be the moveable contact in the solenoid that acts as a relay to pass high current to the starter motor. On many starters this is just a round copper disc that can be turned over to allow the use of a non-arced contact surface.
Number three would be armature bushings worn allowing the armature to rub on the stator.
Four would be a dirty/gummed-up shaft on the solenoid not allowing engagement. (I know you said no solenoid but it is hooked to the starter.)
Starter repair kits typically have all these parts included. You'll usually get brushes, bearings, bushings, brush holders and contact tip kit. You'll need a can of carb cleaner for the armature shaft and some dry film lubricant for the starter gear shaft. Do not use normal lubricants as they will pick up dirt and fail within a short period of time.
I'd say the number one failure is worn brushes
Number two would be the moveable contact in the solenoid that acts as a relay to pass high current to the starter motor. On many starters this is just a round copper disc that can be turned over to allow the use of a non-arced contact surface.
Number three would be armature bushings worn allowing the armature to rub on the stator.
Four would be a dirty/gummed-up shaft on the solenoid not allowing engagement. (I know you said no solenoid but it is hooked to the starter.)
Starter repair kits typically have all these parts included. You'll usually get brushes, bearings, bushings, brush holders and contact tip kit. You'll need a can of carb cleaner for the armature shaft and some dry film lubricant for the starter gear shaft. Do not use normal lubricants as they will pick up dirt and fail within a short period of time.
#10
Well ok guys ... let me tell you whats up with this. Talking about failure mode - it wasnt the gear or the ring gear spacing. It wasnt (isn't) the solenoid. Its kind of unusal and suprising.
I think it is the original starter. I replaced the ring gear when the trans was rebuilt 20 years ago.
This is what happened the other day. When I start the car - I usually turn the car and crank it for a couple seconds and pressurize the fuel line. I usually have to do it a second time. When the fuel line is pressurized, it cranks and starts with a second. Its always been that way. When the fuel line is not pressurized, it could crank and crank and crank for several seconds before it starts.
So, I cranked it twice as usual ... on the 3rd try ... nothing ! Nothing at all. Silence. No solenoid noise. No nothing. Lights are bright, horn works, checked for fuses ... every is normal except I get silence when I turn the key to start.
So, what was the problem and what is the fix. I think you guys are saying the brushes are the problem or maybe weak brush springs (no tension). I dont think its bushings although bushings are probably worn pretty well. How do you think i started it? I had someone turn the key and hold the key in the start position ... and i crawled alongside the car and I reached underneath the car and hit the starter with a 5# mallet. Bink bink ... vroom. Just like that, no phone calls, no tow, blink blink vroom. Yeah, i know, get a new starter but I'd rather just replace the worn parts. It doesnt have to be nascar certified ... Its just a driver. I just want to replace the most likely parts so I dont have to carry a pillow and blanket and mallet around with me.
I think it is the original starter. I replaced the ring gear when the trans was rebuilt 20 years ago.
This is what happened the other day. When I start the car - I usually turn the car and crank it for a couple seconds and pressurize the fuel line. I usually have to do it a second time. When the fuel line is pressurized, it cranks and starts with a second. Its always been that way. When the fuel line is not pressurized, it could crank and crank and crank for several seconds before it starts.
So, I cranked it twice as usual ... on the 3rd try ... nothing ! Nothing at all. Silence. No solenoid noise. No nothing. Lights are bright, horn works, checked for fuses ... every is normal except I get silence when I turn the key to start.
So, what was the problem and what is the fix. I think you guys are saying the brushes are the problem or maybe weak brush springs (no tension). I dont think its bushings although bushings are probably worn pretty well. How do you think i started it? I had someone turn the key and hold the key in the start position ... and i crawled alongside the car and I reached underneath the car and hit the starter with a 5# mallet. Bink bink ... vroom. Just like that, no phone calls, no tow, blink blink vroom. Yeah, i know, get a new starter but I'd rather just replace the worn parts. It doesnt have to be nascar certified ... Its just a driver. I just want to replace the most likely parts so I dont have to carry a pillow and blanket and mallet around with me.
#11
Safety Car
GM starters are the worst for heat soak of the solenoid. I had a Suburban with headers that would not crank when it was hot. I learned to short the solenoid terminals bumping the starter just enough for it to cranks with the key. Of course this was after pushing the 5800# beast a couple of times by myself to pop the clutch. I was much younger then
Not saying this is your issue but do check for any heat damage as well just in case.
Good Luck!
Not saying this is your issue but do check for any heat damage as well just in case.
Good Luck!
#13
Racer
#14
I had a no start condition sometime,old trick tapping on the armature don't work...in my case went out to be a bad wiring contact inside.Just touching the wiring let it start.Since it is discontinued when it comes on i simply tap on the wiring ...broom