Valve stem seal replacement info
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
I've read and reread your posts and pms. I would definetely do a compression test..for piece of mind if nothing else.
but honestly; after all the try's, including professional mechanics, and adjusting valves isn't that much of a mystery...I would begin to look elsewhere. One mechanic said it was an electrical issue ?
in my experience, old ignition wires, while they may have working before, once they are yanked on , pulled on, twisted and otherwise disturbed, develope a zillion little internal breaks along the conductor, especially if they are graphite core wires, and they probably are. And suddenly you have an engine that was running and now won't start.
just because one wire sparked a plug, it doesn't mean the other seven are up to snuff, or that the spark was hot enough, or strong enough to ignite the engine and enable it to run.
I'd start with a new set of wires and work backwards through the ignition system.
but I'd consider the old ignition wires as the primary suspect at this point.
but honestly; after all the try's, including professional mechanics, and adjusting valves isn't that much of a mystery...I would begin to look elsewhere. One mechanic said it was an electrical issue ?
in my experience, old ignition wires, while they may have working before, once they are yanked on , pulled on, twisted and otherwise disturbed, develope a zillion little internal breaks along the conductor, especially if they are graphite core wires, and they probably are. And suddenly you have an engine that was running and now won't start.
just because one wire sparked a plug, it doesn't mean the other seven are up to snuff, or that the spark was hot enough, or strong enough to ignite the engine and enable it to run.
I'd start with a new set of wires and work backwards through the ignition system.
but I'd consider the old ignition wires as the primary suspect at this point.
very sound advise...do the compression test first. Pull your fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over with the throttle held wide open. When the pressure stops rising (pumping up) take the reading. Report back with the numbers..
This would be a good time to get the battery on a charge!
Do you have an "inductive clip" type timing light?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Hinesville Georgia
I did not get to do the compression check today, got called off to help my daughter out. Going to hit it first thing tomorrow. Six plugs are out now so once the big red ball warms us up a bit I will be under the hood. Thanks for the encouragement.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: El Paso TX
If it was me I'd go back and do the proper rocker procedure again except loosen the pushrods up to finger tight before doing a compression check to make sure you are not pushing any valves open that shouldn't be, thereby making your compression check null and void. If this has been mentioned already, please excuse me, I did not bother to read all posts. If the compression was bad on a cylinder I would go back and check that the pushrod was loose for sure and try the compression check again. If compression checked out on all cylinders then I would try to start it w/ pushrods at finger tight. If it starts then I would shut it down right away and sigh with relief.
The first time I ever did that job I was guilty of overtightening and losing compression.
The first time I ever did that job I was guilty of overtightening and losing compression.
Last edited by 95tripleblack; Dec 29, 2011 at 06:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Hinesville Georgia
I want to thank everyone that stepped up to bat for me in my failed attempt. I just got home from following the wrecker taking my veet to get the valves adjusted, they are also going to do the rear main seal while it is there. Again thanks to everybody.
Thank you again.
Tim
Thank you again.
Tim
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
From: airmont new york
I know its an old thread but just for thought if you use the spring compressor that holds the spring from the top and bottom as a compressed unit you should be able to replace the seals and then put the already compressed spring back on the rocker and just snug the nut on and then be done with it..for anyone who hasnt replaced the seals yet.
