Roller Rockers
Hi,
Please help me with this:
This month I will buy some engine parts
I want to install an edelbrock pro flo xt manifold then I want to change the cam that I already have( lt4 hot cam) and roller rockers.
Roller rockers 1.5 or 1.6 ?, self aligning or not ?, aluminum or stainless ?
my car is automatic with 2.56 rear end and I like it, I dont want to replace the rear end. I need torque , I dont need a screamer engine
I will install a 2600-2800 torque converter
lt4 hot cam
Model Number .05" Duration 1.5:1 Lift 1.6:1 Lift Lobe Sep.
24502586 218/228 .492/.492 . 525/.525 112deg
I'm wondering if I use 1.5 rr will be a better option.
roller rocker are cheaper now than previous years
I saw on ebay a lot of parts at very affordable prices
Rocker Studs Guideplates Hardened Pushrods
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390364622817...84.m1438.l2649
Valve Springs Locks & Retainer Kit .550 lift
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170610319075...84.m1438.l2649
1.5 7/16 SS STAINLESS ROLLER ROCKERS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-1-5-7-16...item2c5fe870d3
thanks for your help
That cam was designed for a 3.45 gear/stick car
Never used those knock off rockers usually a little leery of that type of thing.
If youre stuck on that cam just get the kit from GM everything is matched. THe LT1 springs are diff diamter than most sbc stuff youll see listed unless you start grinding springs to make them fit the rotators which isnt a good idea.
I already have the hotcam
before I bought it, my options was:
1.5:1 1.6:1
74211 211/219 .503/.525 .536/.560 112deg None lingenfelter 211
700-136 212/226 . 483/.520 .515/.554 112deg ZZ9 Cam
218/228 .492/.492 .525/.525 112deg LT4 motor cam
I believe that 218/228 .492/.492 cam can work, probably this cam is small for the xt manifold but again this is not a drag and is not a daily driver.
but please post your opinion and if this is not a good idea I will buy another cam. probably a comp cam 266.
I would go with the 1.6 rocker arms with the LT4 Hotcam if your going to spend the cash get the most out your set up.
I running Luntia Spring with my Hotcam they were $70.00 for a set.
Each his own on the choice of Rocker arms as in brand I like the steels my self build a motor thats going to last rather beening on the tail end of a tow truck been towed home with major engine damage due to buying the cheep off brand parts.
I also have a 700R4 auto trans with a 2500 stall converter works good but if I had to do it again I would got a 2600 or 2800 stall to get out hole harder.
And your rearend gears are To high thtas hurting you bad getting out of the hole go to 307 you be a lot happer I want 343 but my 307 work as a Street car fine I turning 2200 RPM's at 70 MPH works good around town and not winding super high on the Hwy Speeds.
A good set of heads will let the motor breath also there other heads for about the same price as Vortec's I using Trick Flows but once again I would used Pro Fillers cheeper and they build them what you want with better flow.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Over a certain amount of valve lift you will jack the pressed in studs out; regardless of rocker type
Alternative to screw in studs is to pin the push in studs to stop them being pulled
Last edited by rodj; Dec 4, 2011 at 07:04 PM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390364622817...84.m1438.l2649
Does not state how long the pushrods are;
most likely not the shorter (7.20") ones needed with the roller lifters in your engine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170610319075...84.m1438.l2649
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/12495494.htm
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255251...-diameter.html
Last edited by rodj; Dec 4, 2011 at 06:55 PM.
thanks for your answer
self align was my first option, but seems that nobody like it
ok, your advice is to go to self align, if I mantain 1.5 then I dont need to buy diferent lenght in pushrods ?
about the lt4 springs, yes I saw this advice in other posts but can I use my l98 retainers and locks or I need to buy other (bigger diameter?), I red that lt4 springs are for lighter valves ?
aslo what about hardened seats or spacer, the shim that is between the head and spring to not hurt the aluminum
what is wrong with the parts that I selected, I can understand the rr brand but the studs,pushrod,guides are from good reputation brand.
springs are the correct pressure, lift, height and came with correct size retainers and locks or not ?
As for Push rods Kinda the same name brand you know it be good off China brand you taking a change that might bit you down the road.
Pay the man lets say $100.00 to day to do it the cheep way and pay $1000.00 down the road to fix what went wrong or pay $200.00 from day 1 and don't have worry about or have any issue with it down the road.
It dont matter if you use 1.5 or 1.6 rocker arms you still should use a pushrod checker to make sure the roller tip is in the middle of the Valve stem and order the correct ones you going to need.
I using the standerd push rods on my 1.6 I did use the same push rods on my 1.5 also they both were more or less centered on the valve stems.
thanks for your answer
self align was my first option, but seems that nobody like it
ok, your advice is to go to self align, if I mantain 1.5 then I dont need to buy diferent lenght in pushrods ?
about the lt4 springs, yes I saw this advice in other posts but can I use my l98 retainers and locks or I need to buy other (bigger diameter?), I red that lt4 springs are for lighter valves ?
aslo what about hardened seats or spacer, the shim that is between the head and spring to not hurt the aluminum
what is wrong with the parts that I selected, I can understand the rr brand but the studs,pushrod,guides are from good reputation brand.
springs are the correct pressure, lift, height and came with correct size retainers and locks or not ?
I saw on ebay a lot of parts at very affordable prices
Rocker Studs Guideplates Hardened Pushrods
[url
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...08-16%20&dds=1
E Bay sometimes have great deals but look around you can find Name brand for a good deal you just have to dig for them.
ZZ4 used same heads as L98 so all stock parts interchange with the ZZ4/LT4 springs.
All you have to do is check correct installed height of spring
and shim if required ( should be done on any spring change anyway )
except you don't need them if fitting a stock style self aligning rocker
New pushrods and guideplates only required if changing to non self aligning rockers.
You already have screw in studs
lt4 springs
1.-do I need diferent retainers or Can I use the L98 ?
Lt4 7.20 pushrods
2.- somebody have the gm part number ?
I already have the adjustable pushrod tool, but I live in other country, I will stay in holidays in usa then I prefer to buy the short pushrods
L98 stock have 5.2 pushrods too ? but I supose that is not hardened, then I can keep the L98 if I go to self align rr and 1.5
marv02 thanks for your answer comp cam 7.2
Last edited by Eduardo L98 1991; Dec 4, 2011 at 09:38 PM.
thanks for your help
I will mantain the hot cam with 1.5 self align rr from crane with this springs kit that inlcudes retainers, locks,shims
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146515...-525-lift.html
questions:
1.- can I use stock L98 5.2 pushrods ?
2.- studs. I want to upgrade to 7/16, Im not sure but I believe that lt4 dont came with guide plates and uses 7/16 studs 10mm shouldered that I wondering if can be used with guideplates. ?
If I will mantain my L98 guideplates and I will use 7/16 studs
what kind of studs I need to buy ?
lt4 studs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12371058/
If you want to run 7/16" (upper) studs you will need non self-aligning 7/16" rockers, guide plates, and hardened pushrods.
If you want to run 7/16" (upper) studs you will need non self-aligning 7/16" rockers, guide plates, and hardened pushrods.
I will mantain the 3/8 that is already on my engine.
question
1.- Do I need to remove the L98 not hardened guide plates ?

















