Thinking about upgrading to a 383 for my 85. Questions are: What is a typical 'safe' rpm redline for a 383 (using a superram)? What roller cam to use, that will have a GOOD idle, nice power, and pass smog in CA? Where to get a 383 'kit'? ...or complete shortblock? I was considering a supercharger from Carroll, but may go the 383 route considering all the horror stories. ANY input greatly appreciated. :chevy ...and approximate cost for a kit or shortblock?


[Modified by GRX, 12:41 PM 5/9/2002]

 

ttt

 

I *think* the typical redline you want to see with a 383 SR combo is around 6000 RPM. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, this is just what I have heard.

I don't know what to tell you about Cam selection and CA smog laws. I would suggest calling the source and tell them what you want to do, Comp or Crane Cams, tell the tech people what you are looking for and they should be able to help you.

As far as shortblocks go, I've been having good luck with Golens Engine Service in Mass... http://www.golensengineservice.com

It looks like they just updated their site and it's not quite together yet, but I would call them and Ask for Chad.

I recently had one of their motors that *I* wrecked due to massive overfueling. Totaly my fault and they are still covering it under their Lifetime warr.!!!! They are doing all the machine work/labor for free, and I only have to pay for 60% of the parts!

Bill

 

When i finally get enough $$ for my 383, i believe i'll go for a ZZ4 short block and then add on things or replace things in it with what i want. Summit puts out a kit for the 383, but i dont like Keith Black Pistons that come with it. And i want 4340 steel and im not quite sure that they come with that as the crank (havent looked in a while). For the ZZ4, id order a Scoggin Dickey or GM performance catalog as well, maybe one will have a better price. As far as the SR goes, i think its usuable power gets to 6500rpm, or at least i havent heard anyone say anything higher than that. The 74219 cam is supposed to go with the SR, or at least thats what LPE put on their SRed 383.

as to whether itll pass smog ***** i dont know

 

a 383 doesn't need to spin as fast... stock or just a little over it should be fine. I have my rev limiter at 6k on my engine.

 

Redline can really vary from motor to motor. The bottom end isn't a problem, forged alluminum pistons can spin pretty fast because they're lighter, thus less strain on everything.

The cam-lifters-valve springs will be the big decider. A cheap set will crap out at 4,900 rpms. A good set can spin well over 7K. It all depends how much you want to spend. But don't let that be the deciding factor. If the motor is capable of spinning 7,000 rpms, but can't breath for that, you're just wasting money on the valve-train that could go elsewhere.

http://www.speedomotive.com/ makes some nice stuff, and I think they are close to you. I would expect about $5,800 for a sweet, steetable 400+ hp/tq motor.


[Modified by NoWorries, 4:42 PM 5/9/2002]

 

What hp numbers can I see with a 383? Why would anybody go the supercharger route? :confused:

 

hell it depends on the intake again, but well over 400hp usually

Ive given thought to the SC after i put the SR on a 383, guys in engine mods kinda talked me out of it, they basically said it would be too hard to put it on and wouldnt be worth the money

 

If you buy a ZZ4 short block and intend to build a 383 what will you be gaining? You will have to scrap the crank and pistons and it will need bored .030" over. That doesn't make any sense unless I missed something.

Jason

 

yeah :confused: :confused:

 

Will a 383 pass sniffer tests normally? (ie. stock cat, egr...)

 

As everyone knows, a 383 is a 4.030" bore with a 3.75" (400 cid) stroke. It is
a common way of rebuilding a 350. There is no good reason to bore a new
block. Why remove metal that can be utilized for future overhauls, and
cylinder wall strength. Leave the stock bore at 4.00" and "settle" for a mere
377 cubic inches. If someone wants to go the NEW route, I would go for a
4.125" block. You don't have to weaken the crank by taking .200" off of the
mains and you get 23 more cubic inches, with similar parts. Besides the block
itself, the only thing the 350 contributes to the project is the rods. Time to
think "outsde the box". Go nuts, and good luck.



[Modified by CFI-EFI, 11:52 AM 5/11/2002]

 

ttt

 

GRX:

An S/R'ed, 383 with the 219/219 LPE/Accel cam typically will produce best results when shifting +/- 5800rpm, and will be productive to 6000rpm. Push any Hydraulic Cam'ed SBC much past 6000rpm, and it isn’t going to have much longevity! LPE has used the 219 Cam in many stroked L98's & LT1's, and their Tech support line swears it'll pass even CA. Smog tests. I bought a 219 cam when I lived in CA, haven't run it yet, but in a 383, with at least a good main Cat, I feel pretty good about passing the sniffer!

As far as a S/C; well, most people with a SR'ed 383 already have a hard time hole-shooting without have a China-syndrome with the rear Tires:eek:! The Carroll S/C for a L98, C4 - I believe was CARB Cert'ed but that's with an OEM engine with a stock Cam profile & stock compression! And while LPE and many others offer "Blower" Cams, who knows if you'll get it to pass the sniffer with those Cams? It's a major complication to an already touchy subject in CA(smog tests)!

Now on the other hand, a Nitrous Oxide system can be relatively, easily removed every two years for inspection. And since a sane person wouldn’t engage N20 until after say 3000rpm, it won't compound the already Tq. heavy low-end nature of the S/R.

When I get my S/R'ed 383 dialed in I plan on using a 100-150Hp shot N20 system. BUT, I plan on only engaging it with a RPM window box set at (on @ 4500rpm, off @ 5800rpm). That way it'll make up for the S/R's rolled off top-end, an hopefully not twist/shatter driveline parts:cry!

BTW Joseph, you already have the right heads, and a shift box that'll handle the Tq., so I would say the 383 is the right next step!!! Just figure out your desired C/R and find pistons that’ll do it for you. I’m running TPiS/AFR 190’s with <53cc chambers, so I went with JE/SRP pistons with –16cc, “D-dished” tops to get me just under 11:1C/R.
P.S. Accel sells a special N20 plate just for the SuperRam.
________________________________________ _____________________
Vader86:
I don't think you'll want a ZZ4 short block for $1890, rather if you really want a new block, like I did, you'll want the bare Block. It's GM P/N:10105123 for $599.95 from Scoggin Dickey, which is the ZZ4/430 4-bolt block! The Rods in the ZZ4 are the LT1/4, 5.7" powdered metal unit which are rated to 450Hp, they also offer 5.94" P/M rods for a little more. Since a healthy S/R'ed 383 can produce +/-450Hp I went with 6" Eagle ESP H-beam rods for insurance, plus they are profile for stroker applications.
:crazy:NanoBrain:crazy:

[Modified by NanoBrain, 7:58 AM 5/12/2002]


[Modified by NanoBrain, 7:59 AM 5/12/2002]

 

Pick up Lingenfelter's book, "On modifying small-blcok chevy engines" He has some combinations in there that should work. You can cam a 383 to be done, make all its power/torque by about 5500 rpm. You can get some pretty good pricing on stroker kits at http://www.partscavengers.com if I typed that link in correctly. Lingenfelters cam or a similar grind is good for the street. Blowers can be a headache, I would pass on it, but that is just me. Here is a link to some small block chevy combos and their dyno results http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7610/dyno.htm Good Luck


[Modified by HWoods, 6:48 AM 5/12/2002]

 

I think thats exactly what i'm going to do actually, i didnt think the stuff that came with the ZZ4 would be of much use to me and i wanted higher quality parts to go in, thanks.

 

My ZZ4 with SuperRam has more power/torque than a set of tires can handle, when you step on the loud peddle. Last Friday, I NOT could find a way to stop the massive tire spin at the track, with new tires. I am looking into drag radials or slicks for next time. I couldn't imagine loosing even more time spinning tires with a larger engine and HP/TQ. I am building a 383 with the original engine in the garage. So I appreciate the hints/advice of these sage motorheads.