C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1990 fan blower

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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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Default 1990 fan blower

1990 fan blower is stuck in high posistion - shows the numbers changing 1 2 34 etc but always blows hi - any suggestions
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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Check the connector on the blower motor control module which is on top of the evaporator box under the hood. Look to see if there are any broken or burnt wires, Check the pins in the connector for good connection and to see if any are burnt. This can cause it to run full speed.

And not sure about the 90, but there might be a in line fuse somewhere around the blower and evaporator box. If you do have the fuse and it opens, it will cause the blower to run full speed also.

** Missed the obvious. The blower module could be defective.

Last edited by pcolt94; Dec 25, 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Yeager
any suggestions
In your identical question you asked ten minutes before this one

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...uck-on-hi.html
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rodj
In your identical question you asked ten minutes before this one

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...uck-on-hi.html

Sorry about the 2 posts still learning the site....new module tried..all wires ok..connection ok..could not locate a fuse...thanks for the recommendations.
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
there might be a in line fuse somewhere around the blower and evaporator box.
If you do have the fuse and it opens, it will cause the blower to run full speed also.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573982448-post12.html
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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I looked for this fuse on my 90 and never found it.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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'90 and up was moved to one of the Fuse Boxes. It's 5 amps usually labelled PGMR. Actual blower voltage is monitored by the Programmer which is a splice from the hot lead back to the Programmer. The 5 amp fuse protects that circuit and when it opens, the Blower runs on High and may run with the ignition off.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
'90 and up was moved to one of the Fuse Boxes. It's 5 amps usually labelled PGMR. Actual blower voltage is monitored by the Programmer which is a splice from the hot lead back to the Programmer. The 5 amp fuse protects that circuit and when it opens, the Blower runs on High and may run with the ignition off.
good to know, thanks. my blower works on the low speeds but doesn't go to the usual high speed I am use to when you go to number 10. I thought it might be that fuse. Sounds like it is the relay.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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If it's '90 or newer, sounds like the Module or Programmer or Controls - there isn't any Blower Relay for Electronic A/C. There should be a brown wire at the Module which carries the Low Voltage Signals from the Programmer. Range is about 2 (1) to 6 (10) volts. Output - purple or whatever is hot at the Blower should be 4 to 12 volts. If the Inputs are right, it's the Module. If the Inputs aren't what you've dialed in, it's either the Programmer or Panel. You'll need a bi-directional scanner with the right Cartridge hooked up to the CCM to troubleshoot either. That will emulate the Controls and if it works, you need a new Panel. If it doesn't, it's the Programmer. Should take all of 5 minutes at a Dealership if you don't have a Scanner - though they'll probably flat rate you an hour. If it's '89 or Below, the Processor is the Controls and if the inputs are wrong, you need a new or rebuilt Panel.
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
If it's '90 or newer, sounds like the Module or Programmer or Controls - there isn't any Blower Relay for Electronic A/C. There should be a brown wire at the Module which carries the Low Voltage Signals from the Programmer. Range is about 2 (1) to 6 (10) volts. Output - purple or whatever is hot at the Blower should be 4 to 12 volts. If the Inputs are right, it's the Module. If the Inputs aren't what you've dialed in, it's either the Programmer or Panel. You'll need a bi-directional scanner with the right Cartridge hooked up to the CCM to troubleshoot either. That will emulate the Controls and if it works, you need a new Panel. If it doesn't, it's the Programmer. Should take all of 5 minutes at a Dealership if you don't have a Scanner - though they'll probably flat rate you an hour. If it's '89 or Below, the Processor is the Controls and if the inputs are wrong, you need a new or rebuilt Panel.

I guess I meant module, I bought a good one , I just haven't put it in.

I replaced the AC/Heater programmer last year.


Thanks.
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