Alrighty.... It's time for me to get on my horse and start buying parts for my stroker project I've been delaying for about a year now.... The block is a LT1 out of a B-body so I will need to splay 4 bolt mains in it. I am torn between the idea of building a 383, 396, or 409 stroker. I would like to build 500+ HP to the rear N/A if possible what would help me get it done. Where are some good sites to find balanced forged rotating assemblies. As I progress on the build I'm sure I'll be asking many other questions. Thanks

 

This engine
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/part...96-lt1-527956/

Look at the price of parts needed to make serious Hp ( and live );
you may want to lower your expectation unless your budget unlimited
A solid 383 will make 500 crank Hp with reliability

 

youre goung to need a good 600+ at the crank to get there. plenty ofcompression big. solid roller big heads shaft rockers etc. it can be done but you wont want to drive it everyday. look into turbo/supercharhing. no. cheap way to do this na ir f.I

.

500 reliable chp is easy 600 not so much

 

^^^^

wow

 

The biggest question is what are you planning to do with the car? If you're talking for track use (road race or drag) that's one thing -- street is a completely different thing. Do you care where the power comes on in the RPM band? What about reliability? I assume emissions aren't a concern?

You'll need a very good set of heads, single-plane, and a good sized hydraulic roller or possibly solid roller to get that kind of power and it's going to be a beast to drive on the street.

I have 476RWHP on mine with a pretty streetable hydraulic cam with a ported LT4 intake (230/236). Take off the 10HP or so the dry sump gives me at the top end and it's only 466RWHP. Add some more cubes (mine is 370ci), a bigger cam and you might get there. The AFR comp-ported 210 heads are a big part of the HP. Mine also doesn't make much power (relatively) below 4500RPM and makes it's peak at about 6500RPM. For me it's perfect because I only care about power when I'm on the track.

If you want a high-RPM track motor or just don't care about general drivability on the street, you can definitely get there NA. If you want something you can drive on the street regularly, you'll definitely want to consider FI for that kind of power.

 

Forgot the million dollar question

How much are you planning on setting aside $$ for this

 

I remember your build, really turned out well!!

 

I was in your shoes 10 years ago. I don't regret building a big dollar motor and blowing it up to build a better one because I love my 93 but here's some food for thought...


Sell the c4. Add the $15k you would spend to build the motor not to forget the components around it.. Trans, clutch, intake, exhaust. Etc etc.. And you can buy a c5z. Aggressive cam package and bam 500rwhp in a much better car.

 

Mark ever get any trap speed #s with that motor?

 

The LT1 is very expensive to build that power due to its short life production
I converted 1206 port Gen1 heads.. I already had dialed.. my converted HSR to 1206 ports
Now converted for the LT1..
I almost purchased a 396 kit but I read about reliability and more $$machining$$
I'm not sure why people say it will be a beast on the street.. I have a 12# billet flywheel
And pushing that power range... I like the clutch response better know then stock HP
It's pretty normal till you drop some hammer

 

My plans for the car is a street/strip with occasional autocross... Emissions aren't a concern and the car isn't a daily driver.... I just want abnoxious power for when I cruise with my buddies with their 10 second street cars. I haven't completely ruled out turbo however I figured it would be easier to tune and build if it was N/A.... Where is a good source to look for stroker kits for the LTX motors

 

LT1 rotate kit is no different

I almost ordered Howard's 383 rotating kit with splayed
I ended up with a great deal on a Callies kit... they substituted with a Lunati race crank
with program engineer splayed... do not make any mistakes the returns are hefty..
your going to pay a premium on LT1 AFR heads.. 56 -58cc will make very high
compression. dished kits more money.. 6.0 H beams very easy to clearance
the 94 under timing chain unreal$$$ and cheesy
this power range I would not gamble with Scat
PS skip the Beehive springs

 

I've never drag raced it since the new motor -- just road race tracks.

 

Build it for 500 flywheel hp and hit it with a 100-150 shot for when you need to impress someone.It will be more fun to drive,have better manners,and require less rpm for a longer life.

 

Thanks for all the advice but is there any websites where I can look at prices for forged rotating assemblies

 

Does anyone know of a good site that sells fully balanced rotating assemblies... And this may sound stupid but is it really worth it to go forged vs cast

 

Check out these folks. It will be about $1600 including balancing and shipping with your choice of compression ratios.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7001

That's just one of many and all the prices are going to be right in that ballpark. With your horsepower goals in mind I'd only go forged. They say (whoever "They" are) that the cast assemblies are good for around 500 horsepower at the flywheel but there have been failures lower than that.

Many times the failures you read about were people that didn't balance, didn't worry about a quality balancer and generally, just didn't pay attention. I've seen unbalanced assemblies put in a high speed balancer and shake the concrete floor like a train was going by right outside. After the balancing it was as smooth as a baby's butt. Imagine all that shaking trying to be contained by a block and five little mains.

I believe that the best crank in the world would fail if not balanced. There's just too much flexing, caused by harmonics, going on.

Good luck with the build ---Gunny---