First 383 Build, need advice please.
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Id be happy with 12s for now. Gonnq let my son take it from there in a couple years. Dont want to give him too much to start out with. which brand rods would be recommended? Or, should I buy a kit (crank, rods, pistons) instead of mixing things up? Ive been out of this game for about 25yrs. My how things have changed!
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Id be happy with 12s for now. Gonnq let my son take it from there in a couple years. Dont want to give him too much to start out with. which brand rods would be recommended? Or, should I buy a kit (crank, rods, pistons) instead of mixing things up? Ive been out of this game for about 25yrs. My how things have changed!
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Id be happy with 12s for now. Gonnq let my son take it from there in a couple years. Dont want to give him too much to start out with. which brand rods would be recommended? Or, should I buy a kit (crank, rods, pistons) instead of mixing things up? Ive been out of this game for about 25yrs. My how things have changed!
FWIW, I'd recommend the Scat 9000 383 crank with Scat's I-beam rods and some nice 4032 forged alloy pistons (I really like SRP Professional series due to price/weight).
With a FIRST that wouldn't be revved above 5500 rpms, there's no need to invest in a forged crank. OTOH, if you've got the money, get a Scat 4340 crank to round out the Scat RA.
With a long-runner intake, I might be more inclined to do the 383 and port the heads vs buying AFRs. I say this after seeing your statement about "not giving him too much".
It's a tough choice since more torque is harder on the trans/rear. (Don't know how wild your kid is either!)
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I got the block today. I want to give him (my son) a good foundation for later, but not hinder peformance now. I went to order the rotating assem and got stuck 383 or 396. When I was racing they said there's no replacement for displacement, but I found a rotating assembly, forged crank, H beam rods, and forced flat top pistons for about $1700. Planning on the LT4 hot cam, the FIRST intake, and just flowing the stock heads, and get a new chip for now. Does that sound like a mid 12 second car with 308 gears and a 2400 stall?
Thanks you for recommending scat. I heard some bad things about Eagle.
Thanks you for recommending scat. I heard some bad things about Eagle.
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I just dont like cast cranks and cheap rods when your throwin alot of torque around. Also I thought I might play around with a little N.O.S.... Hope I didnt open a whole nother can of worms with that one but thats what I meant by I dont know what I might do later. I was hoping I could tone it down for him or stick the stock motor back in at first. I havent had or built a fun car since we started having kids (3). Now theres only 1 left at home age 12 and its my turn to play a little! Adam (my 12 year old) repects his toys (dirtbike, 4 wheeler) and the power they have.
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OK. Short bock is done. I live in Nebraska and we have no inspection or smog control. What all can I eliminate as far as pump , egr , and if I went with a pro-jection system instead of the FIRST T.P.I. will all the dash componants work ok?
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St. Jude Donor '05
Got a PN on that system?
Why not the FIRST?
You can get away with 1-5/8 long tube headers too if you like.
Youll make so much torque with the good heads you wont be able to keep yourself in tires.
Some eliminate the EGR im a fan of leaving it on.
Dont need titatnium retainers either.
Youll need a good tune on your ecm too dont forget.
Why not the FIRST?
You can get away with 1-5/8 long tube headers too if you like.
Youll make so much torque with the good heads you wont be able to keep yourself in tires.
Some eliminate the EGR im a fan of leaving it on.
Dont need titatnium retainers either.
Youll need a good tune on your ecm too dont forget.
Last edited by cv67; Mar 5, 2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Thats why i was thinking of the Holley projection system . Its tunable inside the car without burning a chip every time you change something. P/N 510-950-21s
Last edited by tusairon1; Mar 5, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
