First 383 Build, need advice please.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2012
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First 383 Build, need advice please.
Would anyone be willing to help me with a good "recipe" for building a strong 383. I have an 87 C4. I've got a 4 bolt 350. Machining will all be done threw a local shop. I plan on buying a FIRST intake and throttle body and port matching my 87 heads to it. Should I increase the valve size? What c.r. should I run? I already put the dana44 in and had the 700r4 rebuilt. I have a 2400 stall right now or should I go higher? Need recommendations for the cam I should use and that would tell me what stall I need. I think. Also need some ideas on the chip to use or who to contact. I only have the money to do this once and get it right. I'm hoping for a low to mid 12 second car. Is this realistic? Thanks for any and all help. You guys are great!
Last edited by tusairon1; Jan 14, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
Melting Slicks
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Melting Slicks
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From: Dale City VA
The LPE 219 and GM LT4 Hot Cam will provide solid performance in the power band of a FIRST intake manifold on a 383.
If you want that little bit extra, pick up the phone and talk to Mike at Jones Cams Designs.
http://www.jonescams.com/2006catalog_001.htm
10.25-11.1 SCR is the range you should shoot for.... Where in that range?? It all depends on which cam you buy.
The AFR 195's are a great choice for this engine.
A 3.07 gear and 2400 stall should be perfect.
Will
If you want that little bit extra, pick up the phone and talk to Mike at Jones Cams Designs.
http://www.jonescams.com/2006catalog_001.htm
10.25-11.1 SCR is the range you should shoot for.... Where in that range?? It all depends on which cam you buy.
The AFR 195's are a great choice for this engine.
A 3.07 gear and 2400 stall should be perfect.
Will
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- You first define your intended usage....DD, weekend cruiser, drag racer, road race, etc.
- Identify what characteristics are acceptable...ie so much cam overlap the exhaust burns the eyes at idle, engine lopes like mad even at a 1000rpm idle....or....you want it to feel like a near stock engine, or somewhere in between
- Define your goals...desired power & rpm, trap speed if you intend to drag race.
- Define supporting components...ie rear gears you are using. Lastly, define your budget.
I have yet to meet anyone who randomly selected parts with no goals in mind that was happy with the outcome. In addition, if your goal is to run high 12s, that engine looks MUCH different than one needed to run low 10s.
Heel & Toe
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From: Dale City VA
RWHP is probally around 340ish on a Dyno Jet.
BTW I forgot in my first post - contact PCM4Less for the chip.
Will
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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Pick the LPE219 if you want a bit more power/torque. IMHO, the Hotcam is a better choice if you're more concerned with longevity.
Both will work great.
Don't be fooled by the lowish project for HP. The FIRST makes it's power by 5k rpms -- which means the torque is there for a 450ishHP motor. [Torque would be in the 450 range at the wheels.) You just won't be revving it high enough to make the HP numbers. But, it will still be fast enough on the track -- while being even more fun on the street.
BTW...There have been a couple of guys working on a FIRST build using AFR195's and a FIRST intake. They both believed it would be possible to go well past 350rwhp using that intake on an AFR/383. My guess is they would be right.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jan 14, 2012 at 10:22 PM.
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<sigh>
- You first define your intended usage....DD, weekend cruiser, drag racer, road race, etc.
- Identify what characteristics are acceptable...ie so much cam overlap the exhaust burns the eyes at idle, engine lopes like mad even at a 1000rpm idle....or....you want it to feel like a near stock engine, or somewhere in between
- Define your goals...desired power & rpm, trap speed if you intend to drag race.
- Define supporting components...ie rear gears you are using. Lastly, define your budget.
I have yet to meet anyone who randomly selected parts with no goals in mind that was happy with the outcome. In addition, if your goal is to run high 12s, that engine looks MUCH different than one needed to run low 10s.
- You first define your intended usage....DD, weekend cruiser, drag racer, road race, etc.
- Identify what characteristics are acceptable...ie so much cam overlap the exhaust burns the eyes at idle, engine lopes like mad even at a 1000rpm idle....or....you want it to feel like a near stock engine, or somewhere in between
- Define your goals...desired power & rpm, trap speed if you intend to drag race.
- Define supporting components...ie rear gears you are using. Lastly, define your budget.
I have yet to meet anyone who randomly selected parts with no goals in mind that was happy with the outcome. In addition, if your goal is to run high 12s, that engine looks MUCH different than one needed to run low 10s.