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Anybody who's been there... what order sequence or special tips do I need to know to make the replacement of all rear bushings go a little easier. Should I replace one side at a time, drop complete diff or ????
Ive been there and I had no technique really,just took off piece by piece the parts with bushings and I drilled around the sleeves of the bushings and used a puller in a bench vise to press the sleeves out and then pry the old bushings out.
Then when that was all done,I dropped the rear carrier down and drilled around the 2 large bushings sleeves,then pried the old rubber out.
If youre using polyurethane bushings,or etc,you will need to cut the thin metal sleeve inside the carrier ends and pry that out after you get the old bushing out.Thats the ony one that used outer sleeves as well as inside ones.
Also,You will need a dremel tool with a light sanding roll because when you get the old bushings out,there will be white oxided powder in there from aluminum break down.Its like rust for aluminum parts.Sand that out smooth before installing new bushings.
Wear a dust mask because that stuff will sand out in a dust cloud.
:)
i dropped the whole diff,Vettebabes husband said that was the best way to go. I also changed my fluid as well(Redline synthetic and Gm friction modifier).
Pull the whole thing and clean it up ,you be glad you did. I also polished
the spindle rods,strut rods,cleaned the threads of all bolts. Use lots of grease
with new bushings. Take your time,I also agree with what Bill said about the
corrosion inside the rods,Dremel it out!
Matt
You will need large sockets for the teardown. I had to use these on my89
Let me see if i can list all the tools you'll need:
15mm socket(spindle rods)
15mm open end wrench
17mm open end wrench(rear y pipe at converter)
18mm open end wrench(inside spindle rods and rear brakes)
10mm open end wrench(ABS lines on knuckle and sensor)
21mm open end wrench
21mm socket(knuckle side spindle)
24mm socket(strut support rods)
1/2" drive impact gun
various drill bits
hacksaw for the sleeve on carrier housing
5/16" open end for the halfshaft's and driveshaft
Lots of grease
Patience
jackstands and jack of course
1/2" drive torque wrench for reassembly.
Matt
A propane torch works great to melt the rubber out. After drilling a few small holes through the rubber bushings put a propane torch to them, as the rubber chars you can scrape it away and continue again with the torch. After about ten-fifteen minutes of this the bushings will just fall out. Some members feel the heat will affect the aluminum, but it doesn't get that hot. The metal sleeve inserts are a Bi#&%! I had to use a cold chisel for about 1/2 hour on each one to get them to collapse and fall out. They are stronger than they look! :lol: