When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just curious how dificult the job is. I had the sending unit replaced while under warranty and ever since I suspect a pick-up or fuel pump problem. Now it's no longer under warranty.
I'll probably replace the pump while it is out if it is real tough.
1. Remove the gas door bezel, I believe there are 4 T-10 Torx screws holding it on.
2. Disconnect fuel feed and vapor return lines from the top of the sending unit. Unplug wiring harness to sending unit.
3. Remove the perimeter bolts holding the sending unit to the top of the fuel tank. Remove sending unit from tank.
4. The fuel pump is hanging on the bottom of the sending unit, clamped in place. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump and remove it from the sending unit. The stock pump has a foam insulator wrapped around it that you should xfer to the new pump to reduce vibration.
When you install the new pump, make sure that the fuel sock is oriented the same way as before, otherwise it can interfere with the fuel float and screw up your fuel level readings. Also when you reinstall the sending unit/pump assembly, make sure you set the fuel pump inside the shallow recess area in the tank and don't get the float hung up on the same area.
I used a Walbro unit that is very popular with the Sy/Ty people. I bought it through DRM for about $90 if I remember correctly. I think you might be able to find one cheaper elsewhere.
i ordered a walbro 340 that is the largest in tank pump they make right now off of cottens performance its a buck gn site over in mass they had a really good price also and it is the same pump :cool:
You can also use the GSS-340 that comes in the Mustang kit. It is about $10 cheaper than the GM kit, but the only difference is the fuel sock. You can also use the GSS-307 pump which is the same flow (255lph) as the 340 until you get over 55 psi. If you are sticking to stock pressure, the 340 will probably not gain you anything, but they are a little more money. I run two GSS-340's in my tank. One with a dedicated 6an line and filter and the other through the stock lines.
Right now the stock fuel lines feed one side of the injector rails, the new 6an line feed the other rail, there is still the stock crossover in the front ('94) and the Nitrous is still being fed from the Schraeder valve. I do have future plans to run a T off the new line and feed the nitrous using the T rather then the stock pressure check port. Down the line I may go direct port in which case I will feed one side from each line. The two pumps combined with the two lines should be enough to feed 1000 hp so I have plenty of excess distribution. :D
Here is a couple pics I took when I was doing the last cam swap. Disregard the mallet. ;)
It's honestly not too bad. I replaced my original one(Which I know was fine..but was trying to solve another problem) with a Bosch/LPE Pump(That eventually burned out). After that one, I put in a Vortec truck pump(Highest flowing GM pump) and mostly you have to take the fuel door off, disconnect the fitting to the tank(Of course disconnect the battery first) and you're there. They say to get a new gasket for the fitting area. It's not a bad idea.
I did mine last weekend because the gas gauge had quit working. It was easy, but now I wish I'd bought a new gasket. I'm going to get the new gasket and pull the unit out again, and make sure I haven't fouled the float with the fuel sock (although that would seem to be hard, since the float sticks way out to the left of the sock and bottom of the pump.
Hey guys, the fuel surge supressor, the small can between the pump and the fuel line - the service manual says to shake it next to your ear and replace it if you hear fuel. I heard fuel, but I just shook out the can and put it back on. Am I doomed?
Oh yeah...the service manual says to 1) remove the gas cap 2) pull the fuel pump fuse 3) start the car and run it until it dies 4) crank it for another 10-15 seconds to clear the fuel lines. This gets all the fuel pressure out of the system.
The sock is hard to pull off without ripping the sock off of the metal ring. I ripped mine off, in fact. Klutz. Be careful.
All fuel tanks are baffled to prevent sloshing and fuel starvation during hard cornering and hard acceleration. Some tanks have a small sump to aid during times when low fuel conditions exist. I am not real sure if the vette has a sump. However, it is highly advisable not to run low on fuel. Running on low fuel will definitely shorten the life of your fuel pump.
:seeya