When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lots of information on this forum on injector installation. You might want to start here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1579762896
Sounds like you haven't tackled this job before. You may want to take a few pictures during disassembly. They might be useful when you are putting everything back together. It took my mechanic 4 hours to do the job under ideal conditions (heated garage with every tool imaginable). Estimate accordingly.
One suggestion is when you get the injectors in , and before you reinstall the runners and plenum, pressurize the system to make sure you don't have any leaks.. Nothing worse then putting it all back together, then finding out you have a leak.....Also use a lube on the O-rings , if you don't they have a tendence to roll over when installing them and you get a leak.. I used Vasoline on mine, some us regular motor oil..Also while your in there replace the O-rings on the fuel rails, if these are the originals there pretty old.......Good Luck..WW
a fuel pressure regulator or at least a diaphram for your stock one, might save you pulling it back apart. Dist. cap and rotor will be easier to get at. vacum line from regulator to plenum. a complete set of plenem gaskets to include the throttle body gasket cause giving it a good cleaning would be good. Egr valve would be a good thing to clean or replace. check the vacum fittings , they're probly pretty soft and need replacing, hope this helps
When I did mine I found a fair amount of film deposits in the runners and above the o-rings. Get a can of Sea-Foam and clean the deposits. I would also suggest using compressed air to blow any loose dirt or trash from around the plenum especially around the injectors before you remove them. This will prevent anything from falling into the plenum where it doesn't belong. Changing the injectors is not difficult at all. I found the most time consuming part was cleaning everything I found with any deposits.
Also while your in there replace the O-rings on the fuel rails, if these are the originals there pretty old.......Good Luck..WW
I've had my injectors in and out a few times, but I've never messed with the fuel rails. Are the o-rings for the rails the same type as for the injectors. It would probably make sense for me to do mine now, since the fuel rails are currently sitting on the work bench
BTW how's the 383 running?
**edit** I just did a search and learned they are different o-rings. I guess I can add that to the list of last minute things I need
Thanks for all the help, So this is what my plan is. I ordered a set of delphi injectors, I also ordered a FSM,I will order all the new gaskets.
I wont start the job until all the parts are here. My car only has 29000 miles on it and the under hood may have a little dust on it but there is no grease or grime on it so keeping clean will not be an issue.
In all my reading it looks like if the injectors are changed you have to retune the car? Is this true? If so do I have to go to the dealer for that.
My car has a performance chip put in by the PO, I have the paper on it. the chip came from mid america and all the paper says is 90 6sped 3.33 gear maximum performance computer chip 375.00 and thats it. So maybe someone can help with this? also my car at the same time had the exhaust changed a little. That from what the PO told me was part of doing the chip.
I was hoping to drop and go with the injectors, The only reason for the change is that 1 injector is at 1/2 ohm then after it heats up it makes a noise at idle
You won't need to re-tune after the injector swap unless you change flow pressure. If stock injectors are 24lbs and you replace with same, then drop the new ones in and go.
I've had my injectors in and out a few times, but I've never messed with the fuel rails. Are the o-rings for the rails the same type as for the injectors. It would probably make sense for me to do mine now, since the fuel rails are currently sitting on the work bench
BTW how's the 383 running?:
My 383 is running great , got almost 11,000 miles on it so far...Pete K really knows how to build a motor...WW
Sammy made a video that helps. Also when i work with the fuel system I pull the FP fuse then run the engine until it dies, no more fuel in the lines.
Oh! and that chip is useless.
Whenever I had to deal with the fuel rail my fuel lines kept bleeding fuel so I slipped a length of hose with hose clamps over each line.
Also, it may be helpful for reassembly if you put bolts into labeled zip-lock bags. A bit of time on the front end can save frustration of the back end...