pull the hush panel (carpeted piece above the pedals) and push the switch. This might help. You can just press the switch where the rod goes in. Of course if the switch is just out of adjustment you can adjust it to work properly while your there.

 

[QUOTE=belairbrian;1598602804]pull the hush panel (carpeted piece above the pedals) and push the switch. This might help. You can just press the switch where the rod goes in. Of course if the switch is just out of adjustment you can adjust it to work properly while your there.
Would this also apply to a 1988 C4 as i am having the same problem

 

Yes, keep in mind that the dimmer and ignition switch share the same adjustment screws

 

Ok i have removed Hush Panel and i have pulled on Rod and switch works ok, i now believe it is up top and reading thread i may be Actuator my biggest concern is that is taking out the turn signal switch and not finding actuator however is this likely to be the problem as i am able to pull on Rod and switch from High beam to low Beam

 

Even though you can pull the rod and the switch works, still doesn't mean the switch isn't out of adjustment. You can pull on the rod farther than it's normal travel. Consider that every time you go from high to low or low to high, your pushing on the switch. Over time it can slip back towards the firewall. . Before I tore into the upper end I would adjust the switch up towards the steering wheel.
Here is a picture of how a GM dimmer the stalk pushes against the actuator, the actuator pushes against the rod. If moving the stalk moves the rod the actuator is probably OK.

 

That's just It moving Stalk does not move rod this is why i believe it's uptop i will try to take Video of Stalk moving up & Down as it is not restricted at all its so easy to move

 

Geesus! Thank you guys for posting up in this.... in my case I tore into through the steering wheel and did the guts removal and damned if I see the worst design in the history of autos. it just holds there by pressure. My dimmer would work once, when its cold, and then could not reach the click point after driving. My solution was to bend the shoe part, the metal tang, towards the stalk about 1/4 inch. I was stuck on a way to "hold" the sob in place whilst I shove cuff back on, presumably now with a little preload on the pusher rod. I love the floss idea and will practice remote release once the plastic connector is in place. Just like a surgeon.

 

So after tearing into the steering column. So I (purposely bent the pusher rod to make some more preload to send down to the switch. ( I DIDNT actually understand the actual switch is in the FOOTWELL). Turns out I over compensated and what happens is that - the switch is a little bound, But the fix is sound- read on.

Once the wand puller is worn, there is a slack in the actuation..... Check first BEFORE opening the upper column, you have to remove the sound cover in the drivers side under dash which is much easier, footwell cover. towards the inside mid way down is that actual switch.. Ecklers replacement has the switch system kind of remounted so that you have to cut holes and tap the steering colunmn to mount the replacement upside down from the OEM. The original switch has a gawd awful mount where the bracket was screwed in from the top making it unserviceable. Eckler's, is a good repair, IF you need to replace the actual switch..... it can be done, its a good repair switch IF you need to do it but requires reattaching switch. So Its a series of plastic brackets and senders as seen above IMHO a very hinky design flaw.. I spent a half a day trying to "negotiate" keeping the GD (god damn) pusher piece in place, and eventually if you mount the pusher in the "holder" base well enough with fingers you can slide the column cover back on. Hold the plastic guide piece with one hand and manuever the main cover back over the main steering column. It takes practice.

So the dimmer switch is half way down the column and visible under the carpeted husher cover.. there is a janky 1/4 inch rod that starts in the upper column, that hooky looking metal piece in the pics above. It is a rod that connects to a spring loaded push toggle midway down in the foot well.. INSTEAD OF DISSASEMBLEING the steering there, look here FIRST,,, The wear in the wand MAY have created too much slack to push the toggle in far enough to actuate the actual switch. I bent my rod to put in some preload on the switch, and the action is completely improved. But.

BUT- I over compensated, the switch action is a little too tight and the button style switch spring system wont retract enough to reset the toggle. It doesn't do the round trip to reset the enable-disable. So I worked the rod from the under foot well. Its a ALMOST good enough balance, but the ROD NEEDS more help with the return spring. I am using the existing switch, and it has a bit more play and needs a BIT more travel to reset the toggle. So I did not replace it , since it still works and I am averse to mounting the new one just yet although it has a stronger return spring. If I pull back on the toggle "hat" it resets and "works". So I am going to get out my handy dremel and engineer a helper spring to retract the heavy rod system and let the switch recover.... More and pics when I am done.