ok, some of you know I just bought this '84 about two months ago, but this will be the 4th alternator i'm replacing.

I have read that these models can go through alternators, but I think mine's "too hungry"

What I'm looking for is, what is the most common issue when these models start going through alternators?

I know I have some electrical problems I would just like to know the most common issues to give me a place to start looking.

 

What is the symptom of "alt failure"?
Have you had the batt strength tested?
Is the tensioner pointer between the two limit marks?

 

Check the basics, ground wires, clean connectors and tightness of the wire connectors inside the plastic clip going into the alt..
I had the same prob years ago, it was a trigger wire going to the alt that had gone bad.. Had to run a new wire to the lil connector.
Do the basics 1st before guessing tho..

 

Way cool, thanks, that'll get me started.

After you checked the wires, did you really have to replace the Alternator? I don't mind, it's under warranty and by now, I can do it in 15mins

 

I have had rebuilt alternators that were bad right out of the box. Is that a possibility here? Last time I bought one I had them test it in the store before I took it home (actually I installed it in the parking lot).

Do you have something drawing power from the battery when the ignition is off? That can drain the battery and put an extra load on the alternator. On the '84 I think the only thing "on" is the ECM (maybe the radio), so the current draw should be under 100 mA (or at least near that).

 

Can you elaborate on "electrical problems" besides the dying alternators?

It would help if you can provide some other information". For this, use a DVM and not readings from the "Volts" display on the dash:
What is the voltage at the alternator at idle?
What is the battery voltage with the engine off, doors closed, and no key in the ignition?
What is the battery voltage with the engine at idle?
Is there any current drain as measured with a digital ammeter across the negative battery cable? Remove the negative cable at the battery and connect a digital multimeter between the battery terminal and the cable end. Set the DMM to milliamps and read the current draw. Don't leave a door open,make sure the underhood lights are off, and the key is out of the ignition.

Have a load test done on the battery to make sure it's in good shape and there are no dead cells or an internal short.

Some generic parts store rebuilt alternators can be pretty poor quality. Cheap parts are used in a rebuild and only the bad parts get replaced. A remanufactured alternator is usually better quality but again, it depends on who did the reman and how good a job was done.

Underhood temps can be an alternator killer, but it should not hurt good quality alternators.

 

Out of my short lived experience, if the volt meter on the dash is reading 12 or 11.8, I'm thinking the Alternator is not kicking in. When it is working, the dash lights are brighter and the volt meter is showing 13.9 and 14.

I took the alternator out and got it tested, and it was still good. I put it back in and still had the problem.

Then, I had my son start the car while I was watching the engine and I saw sparks coming from my negative terminal. I decided to take the battery and follow the negative cable. Found that it was leading to a ground on the frame that was really corroded. I unscrewed the screen, cleaned off the rust on the screw and the two cables that were leading to it as well. Put it all back together and now it's working. Way cool!