ATI SuperDampner Install
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 9
From: KB7TIF Ville NV
ATI SuperDampner Install
Hey there, Will be installing one of these with the extra 8 ribs for the SC.
To me looks like it will fit in there pretty good- what needs to be removed? Carroll says Steering rack move ect.
I will lift the motor up a bit if needed.
To me looks like it will fit in there pretty good- what needs to be removed? Carroll says Steering rack move ect.
I will lift the motor up a bit if needed.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,659
Likes: 750
From: NEwhere Ohio
No need to diconnect the c beam and lift the motor.
Steering rack needs moved out of the way.
I just took the rack out of the car entirely (need to remove front sway bar) and had the racks bushings replaced with polyurethane.
They weren't bad, but I've heard positive comments about steering response from those who have done that
When putting on the ati dampner, its best to get a 7/16" stud and thread it as far as possible into the crank. Use a nut and many washers to crank the dampner onto the crank hub.
This is a better method than using a threaded bolt to start the hub on from the front.
What makes the stud/ nut method better is that you engage more threads in the crank w/ a stud vs. By drawing it in from the front w/ a bolt.
Make sure that whatever studs/ nuts you use are grade 8.
Otherwise the threads will strip off inside the crank, or worse, the whole stud will break and stay stuck inside the crank!
Good luck
Steering rack needs moved out of the way.
I just took the rack out of the car entirely (need to remove front sway bar) and had the racks bushings replaced with polyurethane.
They weren't bad, but I've heard positive comments about steering response from those who have done that
When putting on the ati dampner, its best to get a 7/16" stud and thread it as far as possible into the crank. Use a nut and many washers to crank the dampner onto the crank hub.
This is a better method than using a threaded bolt to start the hub on from the front.
What makes the stud/ nut method better is that you engage more threads in the crank w/ a stud vs. By drawing it in from the front w/ a bolt.
Make sure that whatever studs/ nuts you use are grade 8.
Otherwise the threads will strip off inside the crank, or worse, the whole stud will break and stay stuck inside the crank!
Good luck
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 9
From: KB7TIF Ville NV
I should have broke the hub loose when the engine was still on the pallet- I took off the stock balancer and steel wheeled everything so that slips right off.
Any other comments welcome, Not doing this until summer.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 456
Likes: 4
From: Columbus Oh
I thought that until I broke a Blue Point balanacer installer in half (and cracked the adapter) installing one on my stock ZZ3 crank. I had to have a few thousandths honed out of mine and that took care of it. I'd measure any crank and ATI before installation (particularly one that's never been on an engine before, though one that's been honed oversized for your crank isn't going to do much good either).
Just my thoughts.
Edit:
Here's ATI's instructions:
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
Just my thoughts.
Edit:
Here's ATI's instructions:
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
GM cranks are typically to tolerance +/- .0001 (one ten thousandth). If you are using an OEM GM crank you can
hone the damper hub as follows:
Big Block ------------------------- hone to 1.5993" +/- .0001"
Small Block ---------------------- hone to 1.2460" +/- .0001"
hone the damper hub as follows:
Big Block ------------------------- hone to 1.5993" +/- .0001"
Small Block ---------------------- hone to 1.2460" +/- .0001"
Last edited by trackbird; May 9, 2012 at 03:53 PM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 9
From: KB7TIF Ville NV
I thought that until I broke a Blue Point balanacer installer in half (and cracked the adapter) installing one on my stock ZZ3 crank. I had to have a few thousandths honed out of mine and that took care of it. I'd measure any crank and ATI before installation (particularly one that's never been on an engine before, though one that's been honed oversized for your crank isn't going to do much good either).
Just my thoughts.
Edit:
Here's ATI's instructions:
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
Just my thoughts.
Edit:
Here's ATI's instructions:
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
Thanks for the info! If it needs to be opened up a bit I have a machine shop I have used and completely trust, actually there are 2 of them within 1 1/2 miles of the house I can get it done same/next day. I have been told it should fit no problems.
Last edited by illenema; May 10, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
