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How do I remove the lower rear bolt on the battery access panel ? Is it necessary to remove the rocker panel moldg ?
I had the same problem, your supposed to use a very thin open-end which I didn't have. I got my battery out by removing just the top bolts and by bending the panel out of the way. When I bent the panel out a little, the battery slipped right out. If you want, try grinding an extra open-end till it's thin enough to fit in that space. I'd rather not do that though because how do I get that bolt back in once it's out?? It was easy the way I did it.
You shouldn't have to remove the rocker panel, you should be able to just use a wrench (that worked for me when I had to replace the battery in my C4 ).
The bolt in question does not need to be removed, just loosened. The battery access panel (fender) is slotted, once the bolt is loosened it will just slide out.
The bolt in question does not need to be removed, just loosened. The battery access panel (fender) is slotted, once the bolt is loosened it will just slide out.
That's a great piece of information, but my body lines are so tight that none of my wrenches fit. I guess you CAN grind one down,no? Or make one from some thin flat stock?
That's a great piece of information, but my body lines are so tight that none of my wrenches fit. I guess you CAN grind one down,no? Or make one from some thin flat stock?
One our members (who is an avid bike rider) found a bike wrench (10 MM) that does the job. The wrench is only about 1/16 " thick -- perfect for the job. I bought 20 of them and sold them at cost to other members not realizing that forum rules prohibit such sales. You can buy one at Nashbar.com. They are cheap but the shipping will eat you alive unless you need lots of bike parts. Its made by Park Tool Company and, believe it or not, its made here in the USA. The wrench number is YT-OBW1 and sells for $2.99. Add shipping and its $8.99.
Here is the jump: http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/st...0052_535501_-1
Just buy a cheapo 10mm wrench from anywhere, take it to your bench grinder and you'll have the bolt loose in minutes. As mentioned above, just loosen it a few turns and the fender will slip out. Sears also sells a mm ignition wrench set that works like a charm and won't break the bank.
I'm with caddyboy; don't even fool with that bottom bolt. Take out the top bolts, the inner fender torq bolts and just bend the panel. I've owned my '86 since it was new and it has seen it's share of batteries. Just be careful of the two relays behind the battery; they are hot!
Watch out.....on the '84s there was a running change.....
That pesky side panel has to come off when you need to change the battery.
It's pretty much straight forward until you come to that last 10mm screw that is located under the Rocker panel.
Once you get it out, and before you button it back up again, get your trusty Dremmel out and make an oval hole into a slot for reassembly and future battery issues.
Once you do this, you can then slip a 10mm into the thin open area between the rocker and panel and just loosen that 10mm screw enough to slide the panel out...this makes it so you don't have to remove the screw all the way. A real time saver.
If you loosen the front of the rocker panel, you can pull it down just enough so that you don't have to buy any special tool or grind anything thin.....
Last edited by jhammons01; Mar 29, 2012 at 03:38 PM.
LEAVE THAT BOLT ALONE ALREADY!!! You'll scratch the paint Drill a hole in the battery and drain it, then cut it into little pieces with a cut-off wheel to get out the plastic and led cores of the battery itself, then relocate it to the rear compartment. I challenge someone who has tight body lines to be able to remove that bolt without chipping the paint, even if you mask it off, chip, chip,chip....
Last edited by caddyboy84; Mar 29, 2012 at 03:59 PM.
Grind down a 10mm wrench, or just cut a 10mm wide opening in a piece of thin flat-stock. You may get lucky bending the panel out without loosening the lower bolt, but do you want to risk breaking it?
With a thin wrench, and a bit of patience, I don't see how you could scratch the paint.
Grind down a 10mm wrench, or just cut a 10mm wide opening in a piece of thin flat-stock. You may get lucky bending the panel out without loosening the lower bolt, but do you want to risk breaking it?
With a thin wrench, and a bit of patience, I don't see how you could scratch the paint.
I never touched that bolt and have changed batteries in that car like a Richard Petty pit crew, gently bend the panel out of the way. I don't have enough room to stick a copy of The Watchtower in that crack and if I don't have too (or anybody else) why bother making a mountain out of a molehill? Better yet, move some of the cruise-control out of the way, all that crap is right in front of you, that's if anyone wants to do something extra for no reason.
Last edited by caddyboy84; Mar 29, 2012 at 05:04 PM.
I recently had to change the battery on my "new" 35th Anni with "perfect paint", used a very thin 10mm open-end and no paint damage at all...
To tell the truth, I kinda ran out of patience, so if I can short-cut I will. I had back surgery in 03 so laying on the floor kinda sucks for me, thats why my heater core is still on my dining room table. I've mastered the art of working smarter not harder
Grind down a 10mm wrench, or just cut a 10mm wide opening in a piece of thin flat-stock. You may get lucky bending the panel out without loosening the lower bolt, but do you want to risk breaking it?
With a thin wrench, and a bit of patience, I don't see how you could scratch the paint.
Hey, I just noticed that you have a convertible My trunk release relay went and I don't know where it is, maybe yours is the same as mine any clue about the location on an 88?
Hey, I just noticed that you have a convertible My trunk release relay went and I don't know where it is, maybe yours is the same as mine any clue about the location on an 88?
In my 1992 FSM, the instructions for "Stowage Lid Release Solenoid" are:
1. Raise lower end of convertible top
2. Open stowage lid.
3. Pull back carpeting to access solenoid
In my 1992 FSM, the instructions for "Stowage Lid Release Solenoid" are:
1. Raise lower end of convertible top
2. Open stowage lid.
3. Pull back carpeting to access solenoid
Mine relay isn't there, I traced the wires and they go into the abs compartment near the rear speaker. I found NO information about the 88's relay location in any manual and even the chevy dealer was stumped today. ?????WTF????? I don't want to take the whole car apart. I know where the solinoids are, but they are relay controlled.