front suspension rebuild questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
front suspension rebuild questions
I have my front suspension all torn down on the 88 and its a pretty safe bet that everythingis original and needs to be replaced.
I see that the Oem nos 4 complete arms can be had for 425 shipped, which at this point seems like a great deal. My concern is how old is the nos and how much do the rubber parts break down? Is that why its so cheap?
On the other hand, I had already purchased a full poly kit for the front a while ago.
With that said, I see a price range on the ***** joints from 15 to 80+ a piece.
Are the cheaper bjs worth it?
I also do not feel comfortable drilling out the top rivets or pressing in the bottom bj so the labor will be sent out on at least that much.
What should I expect to pay? I have sent work out in the past and just about everyone cringes at the aluminum.
I do decent amount of autocross (but less than I used to) so poly would be nice. However, I really like eliminating headaches too and the nos parts would do that!
What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance
I see that the Oem nos 4 complete arms can be had for 425 shipped, which at this point seems like a great deal. My concern is how old is the nos and how much do the rubber parts break down? Is that why its so cheap?
On the other hand, I had already purchased a full poly kit for the front a while ago.
With that said, I see a price range on the ***** joints from 15 to 80+ a piece.
Are the cheaper bjs worth it?
I also do not feel comfortable drilling out the top rivets or pressing in the bottom bj so the labor will be sent out on at least that much.
What should I expect to pay? I have sent work out in the past and just about everyone cringes at the aluminum.
I do decent amount of autocross (but less than I used to) so poly would be nice. However, I really like eliminating headaches too and the nos parts would do that!
What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by ekess744; Apr 9, 2012 at 02:52 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 182
Likes: 1
From: Greenville SC
Of all the parts in the front end, I would not go cheap on the ball joints. Everything rides on them, so to speak. Many here will recommend Moog. I used them and have no complaints. Good fitment too, and that's often an issue with bargain ball joints. Good luck. Dave
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
On my 92 I took the new MOOG lower ball joints, all four A-arms, the poly bushings and the grease down to my local machine shop.
Labor and parts I spent a heck of a lot more than $425
I bolted in the upper MOOG ball joints when I got the parts back.
I would buy the NOS A-Arms for a street car. Don't worry about the rubber parts, they aren't going to fall apart any sooner than the originals did.
If you want to go the way I did and use the poly stuff - GET THE MOOG BALL JOINTS
The cheap ball joints have fitment and longevity issues.
Labor and parts I spent a heck of a lot more than $425
I bolted in the upper MOOG ball joints when I got the parts back.
I would buy the NOS A-Arms for a street car. Don't worry about the rubber parts, they aren't going to fall apart any sooner than the originals did.
If you want to go the way I did and use the poly stuff - GET THE MOOG BALL JOINTS
The cheap ball joints have fitment and longevity issues.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,772
Likes: 64
From: Mystic CT
All I can add is the poly bushings for front lower a-arm is made with a different location than stock. They move the link between 3/16 to 1/4 inch forward and cause the link to bind somewhat as you have to pry things to get the bolt in. The buchings for the bar are made with an offset to move it forward but not enough. I about went crazy trying to figure out why a aftermarket bar would not fit right but did the bar change and bushing change at the same time and assumed the bushings were the same as stock. Put the factory bar back on and discovered the sway bar bushing deal. Ecklers was kind enough to send me a print of a factory lower bushing and my suspicions confirmed.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
All I can add is the poly bushings for front lower a-arm is made with a different location than stock. They move the link between 3/16 to 1/4 inch forward and cause the link to bind somewhat as you have to pry things to get the bolt in. The buchings for the bar are made with an offset to move it forward but not enough. I about went crazy trying to figure out why a aftermarket bar would not fit right but did the bar change and bushing change at the same time and assumed the bushings were the same as stock. Put the factory bar back on and discovered the sway bar bushing deal. Ecklers was kind enough to send me a print of a factory lower bushing and my suspicions confirmed.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 4
From: East Wenatchee (2hours from n e where) WA
All I can add is the poly bushings for front lower a-arm is made with a different location than stock. They move the link between 3/16 to 1/4 inch forward and cause the link to bind somewhat as you have to pry things to get the bolt in. The buchings for the bar are made with an offset to move it forward but not enough. I about went crazy trying to figure out why a aftermarket bar would not fit right but did the bar change and bushing change at the same time and assumed the bushings were the same as stock. Put the factory bar back on and discovered the sway bar bushing deal. Ecklers was kind enough to send me a print of a factory lower bushing and my suspicions confirmed.
Did you use the offset lca bushings?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,772
Likes: 64
From: Mystic CT
This was a front sway bar only change with whatever brand of bushings VB&P sells but they all look the same in catalog pics to me. The problem is the bushings for the sway bar are 90 degrees from each other so very unforgiving to small dimensional changes. In the rear both bushings are in the same direction so no problem. If GM used a larger frame bracket with slotted mounts it would be a non issue but saying that their stuff fits just fine.
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