Electrical Anamoly??
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From: Indiana
Electrical Anamoly??
Have been setting SES codes for a long time. Finally changed the two relays and that fixed the problem. In the meantime, have had trouble starting about half the time the last several months. No clicks, no starter activity. Wait about 5 minutes and most of the time that would allow a startup. Sounded like VATS. Since the SES relays were changed, have started immediately 25 or 30 times now. No codes being set, etc. How do these two circuits interrelate??? Can't see a connection on the electrical schematics.
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Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (Frank Zeman)
Which relays did you change? There is no such relay/s as , "SES". The only relay in the VATS circuit is the start enable relay behind the center of the dash.
Otherwise there is no connection between any other relays and VATS and you are experiencing coincidence (twilight zone music playing :D ).
Otherwise there is no connection between any other relays and VATS and you are experiencing coincidence (twilight zone music playing :D ).
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Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (Frank Zeman)
The two relays changed were the MAF relays behind the battery that the SES code normally refers to. The starter relay and VATS relay were not involved. That's what left me in a quandry. I was thinking how problems don't go away, they normal get worse, so what happened?
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Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (Frank Zeman)
Hi Frank. You know there are some 30+ fault conditions that can set off the SES (Service Engine Soon) light. If you got a SES light, it also means that a code has been stored in the computer. The code will provide a clue as to what function in the fuel injection or emission control system had a fault. MAF may set code 34 or code 36 on a 1987. And of course there are a bunch of other systems that can set faults, and have their own codes.
You starting problem sure sounds like a VATS fault, which will not set a code (or the SES light) to my knowledge. Usually this problem has to do with either a worn key (get replacement blank from Dealer) or a worn ignition switch.
You can try cleaning the contacts on the "pellet" on the key with a very clean pencil eraser or alchohol on a swab. Then work it in and out of the ignition a couple of times and then clean again. Seems that usually a replacement key / ignition switch is necessary to solve the problem.
Good luck
Pete
You starting problem sure sounds like a VATS fault, which will not set a code (or the SES light) to my knowledge. Usually this problem has to do with either a worn key (get replacement blank from Dealer) or a worn ignition switch.
You can try cleaning the contacts on the "pellet" on the key with a very clean pencil eraser or alchohol on a swab. Then work it in and out of the ignition a couple of times and then clean again. Seems that usually a replacement key / ignition switch is necessary to solve the problem.
Good luck
Pete
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From: Indiana
Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (Frank Zeman)
Thanks Pete. The starting is still 100% so I plan to leave it alone until the problem crops up again. However, you have provided some good ideas and I appreciate that and will give them a go if this glitch raises it"s ugly head again.
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Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (Frank Zeman)
Hey Frank,
I'm having the same problem with my '92. At first it started out to be a 10 minute problem. Wait ten minutes, then it would start. Now it takes as long as 10 hours. No juice to the starter, no clicks, nothing..not even any codes. Starter is good and can be jumped, but as you know, you can't bypass the brain. We seem to have it narrowed down to a purple ignition wire, but I'm going to have to tear apart the dash to replace it and hopefully fix the short. It sure makes for an undependable car.
I'm having the same problem with my '92. At first it started out to be a 10 minute problem. Wait ten minutes, then it would start. Now it takes as long as 10 hours. No juice to the starter, no clicks, nothing..not even any codes. Starter is good and can be jumped, but as you know, you can't bypass the brain. We seem to have it narrowed down to a purple ignition wire, but I'm going to have to tear apart the dash to replace it and hopefully fix the short. It sure makes for an undependable car.
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Re: Electrical Anamoly?? (stuntman)
Stuntman, can you hear the start enable relay click when it won't crank? If so, VATS is working. Try jumping the start enable relay contacts (worn contacts). Then try jumping the clutch switch (xmsn selector sw if auto). If no start with both jumped, then the ign sw start position is worn or inter wiring is defective.
