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Is it an option to simply shorten the yoke so the drive shaft will have some slip to it still. Ive heard of people having 1/8" after its in but I dont. I would rather not pay to get my shaft shortened and rebalanced. If I look at my yoke and where the original seal groove is, I think I can simply shorten the yoke to allow the slip to have the factory allowance. Im only talking 1/4".
Yes I am using an auto shaft. I am aware of the shorter manual shaft, but here in this part of the world there isnt access to shorter ones, any cheaper than paying for the shorten and rebalance.
Just a tech question that can hopefully help everyone else out in the future.
None at all. Yah I read that link in depth. Im just wondering of yoke modification is a good option. Ive read of some doin it but is there any down side to it. I've heard of some removing splines from the inside so it slips in further. And also the way im suggesting.
Good price indeed and thanks for the link. However I have access to a machine shop a welding shop and I have many tools myself. I'm looking for a fix from home or close to home. I like saying I did that.
Not being rude but I just need an answe based on the question I asked. Can I or can't I do this. What are the downsides and upsides to this method.
My yoke is bottoming out" spline on spline" inside the transmission. There is a little over 1/2" of slip yoke still visible outside still when installed. So if I remove some spline so I can use that 1/2" of of slip yoke, will that work? I know it's hard to visualize. But I'm sure someone can picture it. "freeplay" no I don't. But I do have in-used slip yoke, but spline on spline will not allow it. I hope this is clearer.
My yoke is bottoming out" spline on spline" inside the transmission. There is a little over 1/2" of slip yoke still visible outside still when installed. So if I remove some spline so I can use that 1/2" of of slip yoke, will that work? I know it's hard to visualize. But I'm sure someone can picture it. "freeplay" no I don't. But I do have in-used slip yoke, but spline on spline will not allow it. I hope this is clearer.
I had deleted the post before I saw your response here!
If you've excess of 1/2" you could "possibly" shorten the yoke UNLESS it's "bottoming" on the plug in the end of the slip yoke! If shortening the yoke puts the output shaft on the plug then it's a "no go"! You need substantial clearance end of output shaft to the plug.
Now if you your "spline on spline" comment means that the there's insufficient spline length on the output shaft for the yoke to "slip further" and you're intentions were to remove splines internally I'd think it "ill advised"!
I had deleted the post before I saw your response here!
If you've excess of 1/2" you could "possibly" shorten the yoke UNLESS it's "bottoming" on the plug in the end of the slip yoke! If shortening the yoke puts the output shaft on the plug then it's a "no go"! You need substantial clearance end of output shaft to the plug.
You still didn't mention where "home" is!!
Thanks. That makes sense. Home is Drayton valley Alberta Canada.
Thanks. That makes sense. Home is Drayton valley Alberta Canada.
I believe I'd approach "the fix" this way, buy an inexpensive used steel tubed drive-shaft that uses 1310 joints and have it shortened to the correct length or have a steel tubed drive-shaft built using new components.
I believe I'd approach "the fix" this way, buy an inexpensive used steel tubed drive-shaft that uses 1310 joints and have it shortened to the correct length or have a steel tubed drive-shaft built using new components.
Thanks for all the advise, sorry for the confusion. I think I'll measure some things with regards to the yoke. And if I decide that can't be done then I will get my factory aluminum shaft shortened and rebalanced.
How much play is needed in that slip yoke. Can I run with no play, like I have currently. Or do I need some?
Thanks for all the advise, sorry for the confusion. I think I'll measure some things with regards to the yoke. And if I decide that can't be done then I will get my factory aluminum shaft shortened and rebalanced.
How much play is needed in that slip yoke. Can I run with no play, like I have currently. Or do I need some?
You need to remove I believe something near 1" on an aluminum shaft to be able to weld a "NEW" aluminum end-yoke to it. The end-yoke needs to be new! The new/used steel tube I believe might be less expensive!
You might make "an offer" to GSDave for his. That might be the "least" expensive option! Buy his, 2 u-joints and re-balance!
You need to remove I believe something near 1" on an aluminum shaft to be able to weld a "NEW" aluminum end-yoke to it. The end-yoke needs to be new! The new/used steel tube I believe might be less expensive!
You might make "an offer" to GSDave for his. That might be the "least" expensive option! Buy his, 2 u-joints and re-balance!
I do beleive I mentioned the fact that it was aluminum when I talked to my machine shop here. They did not mention anything about length of material needing to be removed. Or anything about using a new end. But I will check Monday.
I tried it today. I put a glob of grease on the output shaft about 3/4" tall and slid the shaft in to see if it hit and it didnt. I have pretty steady hand with a die grinder. I cut it near perfect and cleaned the rest up with a file. I polished the old unused surface rusty area up with some scotchbrite and hit the whole thing with a 1200 grit and polishing compound to get it perfect. I took probably 7/16" off total and now with the transmission at proper height I have enough play to push the shaft forward and slip it out of the rear yoke. Now anyone doing this can do it without buying a 6sp shaft or getting their A4 shaft shortened. It Cost me time. And now its another thing I can say I did myself.