So, i am nearing the finish line with my heads/cam swap in my 93 LT1, and am going to pull the Proform 1.6 RR off, they are sitting there on the heads, and after reading countless bad things about them, they are coming off for piece of mind's sake. I am thinking of the Scorpion narrow body self aligning rockers...any other kinds people are having success with? Comp Cams? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

If I was to replace my Crane rollers, I would get the Scorpions, too.

 

I'm interested in upgrading my stock LT1 to roller rockers also. Does it require special style rockers i.e. narrow body/self aligning? Do you need to tall valve covers?

 

^^^ Narrow body/self-aligning rockers are not required. But, you will have to use hardened pushrods and guide plates with NSA rockers.

You can use your 94's stock valve covers. But, the inner drip-tabs will need to be removed.

 

just wondering on the LT1, LT4, if the bottom threaded part of the rocker stud is metric, 3/8, or 7/16?

reason being, if it's the traditional SBC 7/16 then this might also be the opportunity to upgrade to rocker studs with 7/16 on the top part, if you're going for strength and/or peace of mind.

another variable to throw into the mix, although with the 7/16" rocker arms, you probably can't get them in self-aligning.

 

7/16" on both.

 

So, just to be clear on what rockers to get..

Standard, non-narrow/SA will work
No guideplates or pushrods needed
7/16" rocker studs top and bottom

Correct?

The rockers I'm looking at are the Harland Sharp diamond series SD1005.
Guess I shoulda mentioned that little tidbit of info and saved a lot of questions

 

since there wasn't a reply to this yet, herewith:

sorry, not as simple as that.

if you go with 3/8 rocker arms, you have to decide whether self-aligning or not.
if self-aligning, then you don't need pushrod guideplates.
if non-self-aligning, then you do need pushrod guideplates, and the associated hardened pushrods, as in old school SBC.

if you go with 7/16" rocker arms, then you're swapping out the 3/8" top-thread rocker studs with 7/16" top thread studs, and then I think you forego the self-aligning option since AFAIK SA isn't available with 7/16 rockers. so you would also need pushrod guideplates, and associated hardened pushrods. as in old school racing SBC.

if SA 7/16" rockers are available, then same discussion as for 3/8" SA rockers applies.

don't get confused here:
the 7/16" in the context of rocker arms refers to the thread size on the TOP of the rocker stud where the rocker is mounted, not the bottom which screws into the cylinder head. as mentioned by STL94LT1, the bottom threaded portion of the LT1 rocker stud luckily is also 7/16" which is the same as legacy SBC and also BBC. i say luckily because GM was transitioning to metric fasteners here and there in their normal no-rhyme-or-reason method.

"narrow" rocker arms just gives you more clearance for any factory oil breather baffles and valve cover hold down columns.

all of this is well documented on this forum. i'm not sure from your last post whether you are calling out non-narrow, but SA rkrs, or non-narrow, non-SA rkrs. no, i didn't look up the harland sharp part number.

clear as mud?

 

You'll need 7/16" rockers studs, guideplates, and hardened pushrods with those rockers.

 

Well heck, Scorpions it is then! Thanks gents for all the help. I'll be applying the K.I.S.S. principle with choosing roller rockers. I'd love to use the Harlands, but considering they're $350, plus guideplates, plus pushrods; I think I'll pass on those.

 

Comp Cams 7/16 Magnum Roller Rockers 1.6 Ratio, very please with these. I was originally was planning on stainless rockers, but due to time constraints, went with the Magnums.