C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

wheel play

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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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Default wheel play

There is quite alot of play in my driver side rear wheel. the whole wheel hub/brake disc has play. im wondering if its the bearing hub assembly?
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Old May 9, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by '92C4Vette
There is quite alot of play in my driver side rear wheel. the whole wheel hub/brake disc has play. im wondering if its the bearing hub assembly?
More then likely the bearing assembly.......WW
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Old May 9, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Default Order a new washer along with the new bearing

This washer fits between the rear bearing and the yolk from the half shaft. It is metal with teflon coating.

That washer is part number 14076924 WASHER, WHL SPDL

Orient it the same way the one you take off was oriented.

Edit: The washer is NOT the cause of the looseness. It is something you will want to replace when you have the bearing off.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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how hard would you say it is to replace it?
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Nothing is hard about it. There are a lot of little steps. I pull the "knuckle" instead of leaving it in place.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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just buy the hub w/ bearing they're around $150 installing the hub with bearing on a scale of 1-10 I'd give it a 4 also check that the wheel speed sensor has not been damaged, often the hub will grind against the magnet on the sensor when loose.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks I am going to get one and see that's my problem. I'll keep you posted.
Oh and it suddenly went from sounding like a corvette to a Subaru. What do you suposse that means
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Old May 9, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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i think it might be misfiring. maybe the injectors?
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Default torx bolts

I'm trying to pull my hub and those Torx are not coming out. I've left the half shaft in as I've already had it out once and it seems like I can get to them, but they are not coming out. Any ideas?
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Old May 12, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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kroil to bust em loose
a one piece torx + long breaker bar
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Old May 12, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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I have seen guys put some heat on them to help get them loose. I would use this as a last resort...WW
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Old May 12, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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I looked for a one piece torx 55 with no luck. A friend is lending me his impact wrench tomorrow. Maybe going in straight will help. I'm hitting it with PB Blast now and a few times through the evening. We'll se what tomorrow brings. I'm excited about getting this done. I've had a low level vibration from quite some time, and that clicking sound that the teflon washer should fix.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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A friend let me borrow his impact wrench. I don't see how I can get at all of the torx without dropping the wheel side of the half shaft though. Having just installed new ujoints in both half shafts a couple of months ago, it shouldn't be a problem getting them done this time. The thing that made it so bad last time was 1) inexperience, and 2) the fact that everything was fused together by rust and time. Now that I've had them out, shouldn't be a problem.

Another update after lunch.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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I've always removed the halfshaft on the wheel side. Only 4 bolts. If you go in at an angle and booger up the torx bolts, you will be in trouble. It takes only a few minutes to remove the axles.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob2.0
I looked for a one piece torx 55 with no luck. A friend is lending me his impact wrench tomorrow. Maybe going in straight will help. I'm hitting it with PB Blast now and a few times through the evening. We'll se what tomorrow brings. I'm excited about getting this done. I've had a low level vibration from quite some time, and that clicking sound that the teflon washer should fix.
I can't remember but I think I got my last one in a set from Harbor Freight cause the two piece the wife picked up from NAPA fell apart and lost a tooth.

My first time changing one I had it up on a lift and pulled all the suspension apart (it was a bigger project)
and was able to use an impact and extension when the half shaft and stub axle were out.

Last edited by jaa1992; May 13, 2012 at 03:59 PM.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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I pulled the half-shaft to get a clear view of the torx bolts but they are not budging even with the impact wrench. Part of it may be that I just can't get a good angle on with the car on jack stands. That and the fact that it's rusted and they've never been off in 18 years isn't helping either. (It's a 94.)

I've spent about 8 hours on this so far this weekend. I'm going to leave it on the stands until I figure out what to do.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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What WW7 said. If you have exerted this much torque with no success heat may be your only option. Careful is the watchword here.

Wifey bought me a propane(?) torch that uses a CO2 size cartridge gas cylinder. Produces a very small pointed flame that is super hot. I think it came from Harbor Freight. Something like that would give you almost pinpoint heat which might get the job done.

Last edited by Muffin; May 13, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 03:43 AM
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I used a two pound rubber mallet that I pounded on my ratchet handle to get mine apart. It took a 4 foot pipe on my breaker bar to get the 36mm nut off the spindle.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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Make sure you apply the Kroil to both sides...inside and outside..., since the threads from the bolts pass through the knuckle and hub.

Worst case is to just pull the knuckle as mentioned above, which isn't that hard.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 09:04 AM
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I just did both my rear wheel bearings on my '85 this spring. Although it is possible to get to the 3 torx studs with the half shafts in place, there is not a lot of room for leverage. And, you'll more than likely need some serious leverage. You also want to make sure that you are getting a nice precise fit with the torx bit in the stud. My experience, in the end, resulted in pulling the entire knuckle assemblies off because those studs can be frozen in there with so many years of 2 different metals re-acting with one another. Even with all the leverage that I could muster, I ended up taking one knuckle assemble to my local mechanic friend where we had to apply serious heat, and some back and forth with his most powerful impact wrench to eventually loosen one stud. I would NEVER have got the one hub off without going to all this extra effort. You might be luckier, esp. if the hub has been removed before, but prepare for some serious wrenching. And - the teflon coated washers are a must (GM part only). When the job is done, it's great to no longer have the "clink" when you shift from reverse and drive and you can definitely feel it when the wheel bearings are not sloppy.

Good luck!
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