C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1990 chugging. Sounds like it's missing.

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Old May 16, 2012 | 12:54 AM
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Default 1990 chugging. Sounds like it's missing.

I was filling my radiator with a hose (long story with a dead radiator that is for sure repaired), and water splashed everywhere under the hood. The car previously chugged a bit at about 2300 rpms (in any gear, at any speed, including stopped), but is no longer drive-able.

1990 coupe. The previous owner replaced the fuel injectors. All injectors read between 17.1 and 17.3 ohms. If the AC is turned on, the car all but dies. Really bad throttle response and chugging to the point that a driver can't read the speedometer, even at 5mph. I checked half the spark plugs, but it was getting dark, so I left the other half.

I haven't checked the plug wires yet.

I found a cracked vacuum hose that connects from the air intake to the passenger side valve cover (looks similar to a black PCV valve, except it's empty). I replaced the hose, and now it starts smoother for a minute or two before resuming the chugging.

Any ideas here? Giving gas only makes it worse. It does not level out at any speed. And it only started after getting the engine compartment wet.

Thanks,
C422

PS: no codes from A-B or A-G jumper.

Last edited by C422; May 16, 2012 at 01:02 AM. Reason: More info
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Old May 16, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Disconnect the MAF wires. Try starting it and see if it runs any different. If it runs better then you know that something reporting to the computer is affecting the function...not necessarily the MAF...just a good way to test.

How is the condition of your distributor cap? Look inside to see the condition.

Does the car ever run better? When dry? Does it get worse when wet or humid?

Are the IAC and TPS set correctly?
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Default Part of problem found!

I started to wonder if the problem had to do with air in the cooling system. Popped the serpentine belt off, and it starts and runs perfectly smoothly.

Any idea about trying to bleed possible air out of the cooling system? The water pump definitely spins and pumps. There's a LITTLE slop, but it doesn't feel like when a water pump's bearings go out. It might need changed soon, but it doesn't seem to be the major problem.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986coupe
Disconnect the MAF wires. Try starting it and see if it runs any different. If it runs better then you know that something reporting to the computer is affecting the function...not necessarily the MAF...just a good way to test.

How is the condition of your distributor cap? Look inside to see the condition.

Does the car ever run better? When dry? Does it get worse when wet or humid?

Are the IAC and TPS set correctly?
Haven't checked the IAC and TPS yet. Car runs better without the serpentine belt (as I mentioned in the post I made before noticing your post, 1986coupe). Distributor cap looks fine. Actually looks really nice.

Disconnecting the MAP didn't seem to do much, though the car was cold.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986coupe
Disconnect the MAF wires. Try starting it and see if it runs any different. If it runs better then you know that something reporting to the computer is affecting the function...not necessarily the MAF...just a good way to test.

No MAF on a 90
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Old May 18, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Had the same problem with mine (89) and the pump was bad. When I turned the air on the car would almost stall.
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