1989 corvette problem help
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1989 corvette problem help
:di have a 89 c4 with 6700 miles i bought it new in 89..it sets most of the time & this year it wouldn't start. I could spray starting fliud in the air intake & it would start for a second so i fiured the fuel pump was bad i bought a new pump installed it today & it still wont start will with starting fluid for a second. Took old fuel pump & stuck 12 volts to it & it runs so that told me i'm not etting 12 volts to the pump. Checked fuse panel with key in on position the fuse marked fr i guess for fuel relay as book says it is has no voltage on either side of fuse any help would be appreciated
Pro
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From: Frisco TX
:di have a 89 c4 with 6700 miles i bought it new in 89..it sets most of the time & this year it wouldn't start. I could spray starting fliud in the air intake & it would start for a second so i fiured the fuel pump was bad i bought a new pump installed it today & it still wont start will with starting fluid for a second. Took old fuel pump & stuck 12 volts to it & it runs so that told me i'm not etting 12 volts to the pump. Checked fuse panel with key in on position the fuse marked fr i guess for fuel relay as book says it is has no voltage on either side of fuse any help would be appreciated
Did you change the fuel filter under the passenger side next to the frame? If it's clogged up then you will not get much to the engine either.
I just went through some of the same issues pulling my 89 out of storage over the weekend. I can feel your pain.
Tim
Burning Brakes
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Sounds like the fuel-pump relay by the brake booster. When you put the key to "on", you should hear the relay click. My relay used to "hang-up" before I changed it, try hitting it with something to see if it'll work, but you gotta change it.
Burning Brakes
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Relays are pretty cheap, when I bought my car I changed all 5 relays just to start with a clean slate. If you put the key "on" and aren't hearing the relay engauge, chances are you need a new one. Based on what the OP is saying, it would appear to me that "it's due" for a new one because it's original.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Frisco TX
However, on most of the C4s, if not all, once the car shows an oil pressure of 5 PSI it will by pass the relay and apply power to the fuel pump. While the relay is a cheap and easy replacement it may not be the problem.
Postcar, I noticed that your profile does not have a city and state listed. If you add that you might find there is someone in your area that can help you out with the troubleshooting. If you are in the DFW area then shoot me a PM.
Tim
Postcar, I noticed that your profile does not have a city and state listed. If you add that you might find there is someone in your area that can help you out with the troubleshooting. If you are in the DFW area then shoot me a PM.
Tim
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Relays are pretty cheap, when I bought my car I changed all 5 relays just to start with a clean slate. If you put the key "on" and aren't hearing the relay engage, chances are you need a new one. Based on what the OP is saying, it would appear to me that "it's due" for a new one because it's original.
, relays are pretty cheap, but throwing parts at a problem, cheap or not, is not, IMO, the correct way to diagnose a problem. i stand by my previous post. i'm not familiar with the 89 FSM, but i'd bet there is a procedure for troubleshooting the relay, as well as the fuel system. hell, might as well throw a new car at the problem - that will guarantee to fix it - 
BTW, i'd be surprised if it is the FPR (fuel pump relay) - 
Last edited by Joe C; May 17, 2012 at 10:41 AM.
Burning Brakes
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, relays are pretty cheap, but throwing parts at a problem, cheap or not, is not, IMO, the correct way to diagnose a problem. i stand by my previous post. i'm not familiar with the 89 FSM, but i'd bet there is a procedure for troubleshooting the relay, as well as the fuel system. hell, might as well throw a new car at the problem - that will guarantee to fix it - BTW, i'd be surprised if it is the FPR (fuel pump relay) - 
I'll be dammed if I'm gonna bust my nuts ****ing around with 23 year old parts. I just spent a "nickel" on stuff from Ecklers, Corvette Amnerica and E-bay, maybe I should've figured out how to make the parts myself. I'd change the relay; Nothing? Then I'd go to the next part. Everything is old and has 67k on it, give me a break and just change the ****
I changed my complete fuel dilivery system, maybe I should have left an old part or two in there. I would love being stuck on the side of the road because of a $20 part I was too cheap or stupid to change.
Last edited by caddyboy84; May 17, 2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Anybody too cheap to change a 23yr/o relay owns the wrong car I'll be dammed if I'm gonna bust my nuts ****ing around with 23 year old parts. I just spent a "nickel" on stuff from Ecklers, Corvette Amnerica and E-bay, maybe I should've figured out how to make the parts myself. I'd change the relay; Nothing? Then I'd go to the next part. Everything is old and has 67k on it, give me a break and just change the **** I changed my complete fuel dilivery system, maybe I should have left an old part or two in there. I would love being stuck on the side of the road because of a $20 part I was too cheap or stupid to change.
I'll be dammed if I'm gonna bust my nuts ****ing around with 23 year old parts. I just spent a "nickel" on stuff from Ecklers, Corvette Amnerica and E-bay, maybe I should've figured out how to make the parts myself. I'd change the relay; Nothing? Then I'd go to the next part. Everything is old and has 67k on it, give me a break and just change the **** I changed my complete fuel dilivery system, maybe I should have left an old part or two in there. I would love being stuck on the side of the road because of a $20 part I was too cheap or stupid to change.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
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dude, CHILL. today, a $20 part, tomorrow a $200 part - ??? all i said was to preform a simple fuel pressure check. damn, the engine is 23 years old - why not just replace that too. no flames, but too many people don't have a clue WTF's wrong, but they know if they replace enough stuff, eventually, they can fix anything. i guess i old school - if it ain't broke, dont fix it! i've wasted enough time on this thread -
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1989 won't start
the car has 6700 miles on it not 67,000 it has never been in the rain & stored in a climate controlled garage. the new fuel pump didn't help at all, when i got home from work tonight i took the cap off at the fuel rail very little presssure, could probably pee more myself! lol i turn the key on i hear the pump run for several secondsand i hear the fuel pump relay click i check the pressure at the rail where the schrader valve is little pressure, crank engine acts like it might start but doesn't, whats next the frame fuel filter?
Burning Brakes
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the car has 6700 miles on it not 67,000 it has never been in the rain & stored in a climate controlled garage. the new fuel pump didn't help at all, when i got home from work tonight i took the cap off at the fuel rail very little presssure, could probably pee more myself! lol i turn the key on i hear the pump run for several secondsand i hear the fuel pump relay click i check the pressure at the rail where the schrader valve is little pressure, crank engine acts like it might start but doesn't, whats next the frame fuel filter?
Advanced
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From: genoa il
id suspect the wiring harness in the tank, since i just spent a week chasing that problem. worked fine on the bench laying on its side back in the car upright no contect in the top connector. napa has them in stock in most stores.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Frisco TX
the car has 6700 miles on it not 67,000 it has never been in the rain & stored in a climate controlled garage. the new fuel pump didn't help at all, when i got home from work tonight i took the cap off at the fuel rail very little presssure, could probably pee more myself! lol i turn the key on i hear the pump run for several secondsand i hear the fuel pump relay click i check the pressure at the rail where the schrader valve is little pressure, crank engine acts like it might start but doesn't, whats next the frame fuel filter?
Yep! Now we are getting somewhere. Since you do hear the pump activate and you are getting some (but very little) pressure at the rail then the next step should be the fuel filter.
Honestly, that should be changed any time you open up the tank for anything. A lot of debris gets kicked up when you are changing out the pump or fixing\cleaning the fuel sending unit. The filter is the first place that will get clogged up if it gets through the strainer. You get enough crap in it and it will let very little gas get through.
Once you have the filter off try putting a hose on the end of the inlet line, put that into a can or something and turn the car to the on position (but not start). When the fuel pump charges you should be rewarded with a nice flow of gas into the can. That will tell you if there is a blockage between the tank and the filter.
If everything is good, put the new filter in and start the car up. Hopefully, you will be able to drive it around at this point.
Tim
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Not starting yet
I put new frame filter on today, old one was fine you could blow thru it easy,but i put the new one on. Turned key on ot a nice 2 second shot of gas. Thought it would start but nope. Kinda acted like it wanted too but nope. Opened schrader valve up gas shot up about4 inches. Turned key on let it prime, opened schrader valve again and again about 4 inches it shot gas..still wont start sprayed gas in the intake fires right up runs til gas is gone.....now what any help appreciated
Burning Brakes
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I put new frame filter on today, old one was fine you could blow thru it easy,but i put the new one on. Turned key on ot a nice 2 second shot of gas. Thought it would start but nope. Kinda acted like it wanted too but nope. Opened schrader valve up gas shot up about4 inches. Turned key on let it prime, opened schrader valve again and again about 4 inches it shot gas..still wont start sprayed gas in the intake fires right up runs til gas is gone.....now what any help appreciated
Race Director
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I put new frame filter on today, old one was fine you could blow thru it easy,but i put the new one on. Turned key on ot a nice 2 second shot of gas. Thought it would start but nope. Kinda acted like it wanted too but nope. Opened schrader valve up gas shot up about4 inches. Turned key on let it prime, opened schrader valve again and again about 4 inches it shot gas..still wont start sprayed gas in the intake fires right up runs til gas is gone.....now what any help appreciated
the noid light is a good suggestion, but chances of both injector banks, or all injectors being out, although not impossible, are pretty slim. BTW, if i recall, there are two fuses for the right and left injector bank on the L98 engine.
keep throwing parts at it, you'll eventually figure it out (yes, i am being sarcastic). still stand by my original post - love to know the results of a fuel pressure test. quit second guessing the problem, establish a baseline, run the test, and a proper fuel system diagnostics (per FSM) -
Burning Brakes
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so, how many PSI in a 4 inch shot?
the noid light is a good suggestion, but chances of both injector banks, or all injectors being out, although not impossible, are pretty slim. BTW, if i recall, there are two fuses for the right and left injector bank on the L98 engine.
keep throwing parts at it, you'll eventually figure it out (yes, i am being sarcastic). still stand by my original post - love to know the results of a fuel pressure test. quit second guessing the problem, establish a baseline, run the test, and a proper fuel system diagnostics (per FSM) -
the noid light is a good suggestion, but chances of both injector banks, or all injectors being out, although not impossible, are pretty slim. BTW, if i recall, there are two fuses for the right and left injector bank on the L98 engine.
keep throwing parts at it, you'll eventually figure it out (yes, i am being sarcastic). still stand by my original post - love to know the results of a fuel pressure test. quit second guessing the problem, establish a baseline, run the test, and a proper fuel system diagnostics (per FSM) -
I didn't think it would've gotten this far. My car ran with low pressure, but it kept stalling, but he's not even starting. Could it be a couple of clogged injectors from sitting? I would've thought "spark", but you're saying that it runs on fluid.......HUMMmmmm. You should have a gauge in the box, might as well check the pressure at this point 
Le Mans Master
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From: San Diego, Ca
Sounds like injectors to me. You could measure the pressure drop (special tool available at NAPA for about 100 Bucks which will energize each injector for 5 ms), but it's extremely difficult to read the actual drop on most pressure gages because the increments are too small to be meaningful. You could also remove the rail, leave the injectors attached, and then crank it to see what comes out of each one (good god - what a mess that could be!). You could also try some 3M Injector cleaner but you'll need to find the hose so that you can hook it up the rail (Ecklers use to sell the hose - NAPA sells the Cleaner). Or heck, just get to a Dealer and have them use their miracle flush machine and be done with it.
