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1986 shock replacement

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Old May 17, 2012 | 03:12 AM
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Default 1986 shock replacement

I am going to change the shocks on my 86 and it looks very simple but I have never done it. I could not find any instructions could someone please post them.

Thanks
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Old May 17, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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It's so simple even the service manual doesn't go into detail.
On the front, there is an allen wrench opening at top of shock rod, so you can hold the shaft from spinning, while you remove the nut.
The rear, 2 nuts and a bolt and your done.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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It is pretty easy, you don't even have to remove the wheels. My shocks didn't have any allen head on them though, what they did have was a hex shaped tip that you can hold with a small adjustable wrench or vise-grip. Using an air compressor and a 3/8 air ratchet is much easier because it spins off the nut faster than the shaft can move. My new KYB's used a double-nut to re-attach them. I believe the hardware is 13 or 14mm, maybe 9/16th I forget. I just realized that I did it by hand, the air ratchet don't fit, oh well, can't remember everything.

Last edited by caddyboy84; May 17, 2012 at 05:26 PM.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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Default shocks

Yes...very easy to replace. I just added KYBs and am quite happy. Of course, the old ones were really bad. I removed rear wheels just to really get at upper bolt easily.
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Old May 19, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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Ok thanks everyone Im gonna do that soon along with some roller rockers!!!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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I can keep the dang vice grips of a wrech on the passenger side, gonna buy better pair of vice grips tomorrow.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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Overall, a pretty easy job. Three out of four took me an hour or so on my 91. The fourth one, however had me cussing.

The 22 year old shocks on my car were original and the LR chose to rust itself to the stem so solidly that I couldn't beat it off with a mini sledge. I finally realized that the stem unbolted from the other side, so I was able to remove the shock with the stem inside. Even then, it took me a good 15 minutes to free the stem from the old shock.

Also use caution with the upper bolts in the rear..........especially if they haven't been off. I've read plenty of stories about the bolts snapping or the weld breaking on the nut inside the frame. Be sure to go slow and use a lot of penetrating oil. I even removed a small rubber plug on the side of the frame to spray some penetrating oil on the inside.

Its really not a bad job and the results are very satisfying. My car has never ridden this well (at least not while I've owned it).
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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1. Remove bolts/nuts
2. Remove shocks
3. Install shocks
4. Install bolts/nuts
5. Drink Beer

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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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they are all wrong. They are just blowing smoke up your leg. When shocks go bad..the entire car is worthless..as a forum member, I will come tow the car away and only charge you 20 bucks.. actually these guys have given you the straight up truth, good advice. have fun working on your car..heck with paying folks to do it.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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I will take you no time at all. The only problem with the job is that you will discover other things that you want to do while doing the job. This is how the next project takes shape.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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Remember to use Anti Seize lube on your bolts when putting new shocks on so if you decide to change in the future it will make it easier to remove the shocks.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
On the front, there is an allen wrench opening at top of shock rod, so you can hold the shaft from spinning, while you remove the nut.
Oh really? I replaced the original shocks on my '86 recently and didn't notice any opening for an allen wrench on the fronts. Sure wish there was one. It would have made the job easier. I used channel locks to keep the shaft from spinning while I loosened the nut.

Last edited by Biker; Feb 19, 2013 at 02:32 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Biker
Oh really? I replaced the original shocks on my '86 recently and didn't notice any opening for an allen wrench on the fronts. Sure wish there was one. It would have made the job easier. I used channel locks to keep the shaft from spinning while I loosened the nut.
Sorry for the confusion, mine are factory Bilsteins. I believe the others had a small hex head at top of rod.
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