When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One more dumb question, why do i see race cars and hot rods using header tape? (other than it looks bad ***)
Because it lowers under hood temperatures and also keeps the heat inside the pipes, increasing efficiency.
You can do the same thing (decreasing under hood temps and increasing efficiency) by having the headers ceramic coated inside and out.
That is what Jet Hot coating is, and is what it does. It also looks a whole lot better than header wrap.
I read and read, and have not reached a decisive conclusion on manufacturer. Hedman,Hooker,OBX,and others. What is a good set of headers that isn't going to cost a small fortune, and where is a good place to get them? I see people speak of $200 cheapys (I do not think they exist for the c4) up to $1700 fancy jobs for show cars.
I want some that won't rust away in a year, that tuck away, don't hang down and hit every driveway curb, and don't require a vital organ as a downpayment. Really, just a set of regular old headers for street use and to **** off the neighbors when necessary.
I have an 85 also. I got a set of cheapie hedman's from Amazon open-box for $124 shipped. Couldn't turn it down. I used extra tall jack stands and they went in fairly easy from the bottom. I had the reducer that came with the headers expanded to 2.5", and then welded an O2 bung to it. Then I tied this into the stock exhaust pipe. I put in a new O2 sensor while I had it out. They're so cheap you might as well do it.
If I did it again, I would use a Hedman extension that already has an O2 bung like this:
It would make it a lot easier to tie into the exhaust. With the s-bend you'll be able to fit it to the stock exhaust pipe by just rotating it.
Oh, and be VERY careful removing the dipstick or you'll break it. Don't ask me how I know this
Overall, they fit really well and work great for having about $175 total with everything. After I put the headers in I replaced the stocker starter with a mini-starter, and it slipped right in without touching the headers. Also, they don't hang down to low. I haven't hit them on anything yet. I couldn't be happier.
O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
D'oh! Very good idea! I wish I woulda thought of that before I put the headers on.
Ok lets say I do some decent headers with a 3" collector. If i decided to do a 58mm Throtole body will i need to re flash my chip or upgrade my Injectors?
How much can i expect to gain by these 2 mods?
I am planning to do a Dyno run every step of the way
Curious if I am on the right track
Planed Mods in this order
Headers 3" exhaust no cats
58mm TB
zz7 Cam
Re built alum heads
Reverse water pump (eliminate the air pump and AC)
That will be all till i re do the bottom end. as for now it has a touch under 100k on it and seems to sound ok and does not shoot oil
3" dual exhaust seems a bit excessive. 2.25" or 2.5" is overly plenty for any small block, bored, stroked oreven blown. The 3" pipes are for big block high performancedisplacement.
I am getting ready to bring my 87 c4 in, talked with a lot of performance guys, and they all told me the same thing. The overkill will not give any improvement, and in some cases can actually hinder performance.
here you go, this one is based on HP to exhaust requirement. there are others that calculate for displacement, rpm range, forced induction, etc, but they come up pretty much the same.
The TB air flow isn't the limiting factor on our cars, the TPI intake system is. You can stuff as much air as you want through the TB, but it's still gonna choke up through the long runners.
If you search there's CFM numbers for stock and aftermarket TB's with and without the airfoil.
here you go, this one is based on HP to exhaust requirement. there are others that calculate for displacement, rpm range, forced induction, etc, but they come up pretty much the same.
Cool link but it doesnt take rpm into consideration.....
I would go a tad bigger then smaller, and I think that's normal thinking when thinking of exhaust.
I have true dual 3 inch mandrel bent and will prob make 530chp/575tq when exhaust is fixed and fully tuned.
According to the link I need 2.54.
If you type in 300 hp (LT1) it spits out 1.91 inches, and if you type in 240 hp (L98) it spits out 1.71 which seems awful small!!