C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Header Install

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Old May 23, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Dumb question I Know, but why not buy the cheap 179.00 headers and paint them? what is the difference then?
Paint burns off, then the pipes rust through, then you get to do it again. You get what you pay for regarding Corvette headers.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Dumb question I Know, but why not buy the cheap 179.00 headers and paint them? what is the difference then?
Because the paint doesn't last and the headers rust from the inside out.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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ahh Another lesson learned by me the cheapest man alive ha

Thats one reason i love this car, the awesome people that give great advice
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Old May 23, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #24  
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One more dumb question, why do i see race cars and hot rods using header tape? (other than it looks bad ***)
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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
One more dumb question, why do i see race cars and hot rods using header tape? (other than it looks bad ***)
Keep the heat in where it belongs. A secondary affect is that it makes it a minor amount easier to work around a hot engine.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
One more dumb question, why do i see race cars and hot rods using header tape? (other than it looks bad ***)
Because it lowers under hood temperatures and also keeps the heat inside the pipes, increasing efficiency.
You can do the same thing (decreasing under hood temps and increasing efficiency) by having the headers ceramic coated inside and out.
That is what Jet Hot coating is, and is what it does. It also looks a whole lot better than header wrap.

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Old May 25, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #27  
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I read and read, and have not reached a decisive conclusion on manufacturer. Hedman,Hooker,OBX,and others. What is a good set of headers that isn't going to cost a small fortune, and where is a good place to get them? I see people speak of $200 cheapys (I do not think they exist for the c4) up to $1700 fancy jobs for show cars.

I want some that won't rust away in a year, that tuck away, don't hang down and hit every driveway curb, and don't require a vital organ as a downpayment. Really, just a set of regular old headers for street use and to **** off the neighbors when necessary.


So...much...information.........must.... .....continue........to.........read.... ...forum..........

Last edited by Mo'Vette; May 25, 2012 at 12:55 AM.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #28  
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I have an 85 also. I got a set of cheapie hedman's from Amazon open-box for $124 shipped. Couldn't turn it down. I used extra tall jack stands and they went in fairly easy from the bottom. I had the reducer that came with the headers expanded to 2.5", and then welded an O2 bung to it. Then I tied this into the stock exhaust pipe. I put in a new O2 sensor while I had it out. They're so cheap you might as well do it.

If I did it again, I would use a Hedman extension that already has an O2 bung like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-18708/

It would make it a lot easier to tie into the exhaust. With the s-bend you'll be able to fit it to the stock exhaust pipe by just rotating it.

Oh, and be VERY careful removing the dipstick or you'll break it. Don't ask me how I know this

Overall, they fit really well and work great for having about $175 total with everything. After I put the headers in I replaced the stocker starter with a mini-starter, and it slipped right in without touching the headers. Also, they don't hang down to low. I haven't hit them on anything yet. I couldn't be happier.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:20 AM
  #29  
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Not hard at all with the car up in teh air, at least 12" from the hgroudnd to the frame,,,

AND, you "really should" buy the 1996 Vette mini starter because the stocker is to large and too close to teh header which results in heat soke.

Just sayin, one thing,,,, leads to,, ,aaanoothhherrr, (The Fixx)

Drive over here to INDY and we can do it in my garage,,,
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Old May 25, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Crepitus
O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
and you could get a heated O2 as welll


1 thing,,,, leads to another

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z17CiM2a1M4
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Old May 25, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Crepitus
O2 senors; Could be a good idea to fire up new headers with a old or even no sensor to avoid cruding the thing up with paint oil sealant ect burnoff inside the header.
D'oh! Very good idea! I wish I woulda thought of that before I put the headers on.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #33  
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Ok lets say I do some decent headers with a 3" collector. If i decided to do a 58mm Throtole body will i need to re flash my chip or upgrade my Injectors?

How much can i expect to gain by these 2 mods?
I am planning to do a Dyno run every step of the way
Curious if I am on the right track

Planed Mods in this order

Headers 3" exhaust no cats
58mm TB
zz7 Cam
Re built alum heads
Reverse water pump (eliminate the air pump and AC)

That will be all till i re do the bottom end. as for now it has a touch under 100k on it and seems to sound ok and does not shoot oil
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Old May 27, 2012 | 05:43 PM
  #34  
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58mm TB is a waste on a stockish TPI.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Alan777
58mm TB is a waste on a stockish TPI.
Hmm explain Please
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Old May 27, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Alan777
58mm TB is a waste on a stockish TPI.
With a 350 Ci, I would stick with stock, the TB will not be a restriction
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:03 PM
  #37  
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3" dual exhaust seems a bit excessive. 2.25" or 2.5" is overly plenty for any small block, bored, stroked oreven blown. The 3" pipes are for big block high performancedisplacement.

I am getting ready to bring my 87 c4 in, talked with a lot of performance guys, and they all told me the same thing. The overkill will not give any improvement, and in some cases can actually hinder performance.

Just my 2 bits.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #38  
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http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

here you go, this one is based on HP to exhaust requirement. there are others that calculate for displacement, rpm range, forced induction, etc, but they come up pretty much the same.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Hmm explain Please
The TB air flow isn't the limiting factor on our cars, the TPI intake system is. You can stuff as much air as you want through the TB, but it's still gonna choke up through the long runners.

If you search there's CFM numbers for stock and aftermarket TB's with and without the airfoil.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mo'Vette
http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

here you go, this one is based on HP to exhaust requirement. there are others that calculate for displacement, rpm range, forced induction, etc, but they come up pretty much the same.
Cool link but it doesnt take rpm into consideration.....

I would go a tad bigger then smaller, and I think that's normal thinking when thinking of exhaust.

I have true dual 3 inch mandrel bent and will prob make 530chp/575tq when exhaust is fixed and fully tuned.

According to the link I need 2.54.

If you type in 300 hp (LT1) it spits out 1.91 inches, and if you type in 240 hp (L98) it spits out 1.71 which seems awful small!!
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