custom clutch line, think it will work?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,672
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From: Sumter South Carolina
custom clutch line, think it will work?
So i didnt want to pay 130 bucks for a line so i figured i put one together. Bought the right flares from advanced, cut them in half and got the hydrolic place to silver solder some hydrolic fittings onto the end. Cut it to length and i still have to bend a 90* into either end but thinking it should work. All the inner diamiters are the same as stock and worse comes to worse i reuse my old one that just looks rough.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Silver solder is some pretty tuff stuff so it should be fine. Back in my racing days I blew a headgasket right between 3&5 cylinder, took metal out of the head and the block. An old welder told me he could fix it, he used silver solder and I had him do it, put it back together and went back racing. The repair held up great.
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From: moraga ca
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Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid. As long as the solder holds up it should be fine. The brake fluid will not hurt the teflon.
There are fittings that have the metric thread for the master and slave that adapt to -3 or -4 line. Then just connect the two fittings with a braided hose. That might have been easier.
Part numbers 305-03M121 or 305-04M121 on this site:
http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Steel-13.html
There are fittings that have the metric thread for the master and slave that adapt to -3 or -4 line. Then just connect the two fittings with a braided hose. That might have been easier.
Part numbers 305-03M121 or 305-04M121 on this site:
http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Steel-13.html
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
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Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid. As long as the solder holds up it should be fine. The brake fluid will not hurt the teflon.
There are fittings that have the metric thread for the master and slave that adapt to -3 or -4 line. Then just connect the two fittings with a braided hose. That might have been easier.
Part numbers 305-03M121 or 305-04M121 on this site:
http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Steel-13.html
There are fittings that have the metric thread for the master and slave that adapt to -3 or -4 line. Then just connect the two fittings with a braided hose. That might have been easier.
Part numbers 305-03M121 or 305-04M121 on this site:
http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Steel-13.html
To be more accurate,
brake fluid starts out as lightweight hyd fluid but then it has a ton of acid blended in to fight corrosion and oxidation of internal brake parts and to prevent boiling at its thin viscosity...until it gets to a class by itself. Too caustic to use elsewhere in other systems. Brake fluid introduced into the typical hydraulic system will destroy the seals in a matter of hours. I do not know about teflon, but most rubber has to be vitron(sp?) to resist the acidic brake fluid. Thats why rubber brake lines are more costly hoses.
Spill some hyd fluid (power steering or trans fluid) on the hood. Now spill some brake fluid. See where you have paint etched...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 8
From: Sumter South Carolina
Ill test it for a few weeks before trusting it far from home. I got it in and seems like its holding pressure. Im fed up tonight being on my back dealing with the pedal. Ill finish tomorrow and then test on the road. Worse comes to worse ill clutchless shift home.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,392
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From: Merritt Island, FL
To be more accurate,
brake fluid starts out as lightweight hyd fluid but then it has a ton of acid blended in to fight corrosion and oxidation of internal brake parts and to prevent boiling at its thin viscosity...until it gets to a class by itself. Too caustic to use elsewhere in other systems. Brake fluid introduced into the typical hydraulic system will destroy the seals in a matter of hours. I do not know about teflon, but most rubber has to be vitron(sp?) to resist the acidic brake fluid. Thats why rubber brake lines are more costly hoses.
Spill some hyd fluid (power steering or trans fluid) on the hood. Now spill some brake fluid. See where you have paint etched...
brake fluid starts out as lightweight hyd fluid but then it has a ton of acid blended in to fight corrosion and oxidation of internal brake parts and to prevent boiling at its thin viscosity...until it gets to a class by itself. Too caustic to use elsewhere in other systems. Brake fluid introduced into the typical hydraulic system will destroy the seals in a matter of hours. I do not know about teflon, but most rubber has to be vitron(sp?) to resist the acidic brake fluid. Thats why rubber brake lines are more costly hoses.
Spill some hyd fluid (power steering or trans fluid) on the hood. Now spill some brake fluid. See where you have paint etched...
I think the seal material you were referring to is "Viton".
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Both Viton and Teflon will hold up well to brake fluid. The OEM clutch line is lined with teflon as well.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Sumter South Carolina
Plus their are no "seals" in my setup unlike a hydraulic system on a fork lift or something. Its just metal flares. As long as the teflon inside the steel braid doesnt degrade is will be fine.
Another question, since my line is longer (wanted to play it safe) it comes close to my collector on my headers. Maybe within 3 inches. Would that be a factor at the track with 20 min sessions? Clutch shouldnt boil like brake fluid but i know it can. Im using super blue anyway so its about as good as it can be.
Another question, since my line is longer (wanted to play it safe) it comes close to my collector on my headers. Maybe within 3 inches. Would that be a factor at the track with 20 min sessions? Clutch shouldnt boil like brake fluid but i know it can. Im using super blue anyway so its about as good as it can be.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
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Brake fluid is made that way to satisfy the DOT in regards to their regulations that the fkuid cannot cause corrosion, cannot degrade itself from heat of boiling, and it has to be self cleaning so the control valves in a brake system stay clean and functionable at all times. Its all about keeping a dirty sytstem sterile clean inside so it never fails from a caliper frozen or blown seals or something of that nature,. Brake systems are pretty HD and usually fully functional 30 yrs down the road...because of the acid that keeps everything clean inside.
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Plus their are no "seals" in my setup unlike a hydraulic system on a fork lift or something. Its just metal flares. As long as the teflon inside the steel braid doesnt degrade is will be fine.
Another question, since my line is longer (wanted to play it safe) it comes close to my collector on my headers. Maybe within 3 inches. Would that be a factor at the track with 20 min sessions? Clutch shouldnt boil like brake fluid but i know it can. Im using super blue anyway so its about as good as it can be.
Another question, since my line is longer (wanted to play it safe) it comes close to my collector on my headers. Maybe within 3 inches. Would that be a factor at the track with 20 min sessions? Clutch shouldnt boil like brake fluid but i know it can. Im using super blue anyway so its about as good as it can be.