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Well replaced the front and back rotors and pads... Hawks hps in the front ebc greens in the back... Still not happy with brakes.. so decided to flush the system with new fluid(it was black).. put 3 quarts bottles through it using a vacuum pump.. fluid is clean but brakes are still not what I expect... The wheels will just not lock up...Also want to mention the e-brakes at full pull will only hold the car up to 1000 rpm...
Not sure what to try next... thinking new calipers?? But not sure if that is the issue..Since none are leaking and they all release without issue..
I have read a few threads in which guys had the same complaints and they discovered brake booster was cracked and or bad. The R&R of the booster seemed to cure their problem.
I have read a few threads in which guys had the same complaints and they discovered brake booster was cracked and or bad. The R&R of the booster seemed to cure their problem.
That's the first thing I checked.. No crack.. And the booster is assisting and holding vacuum..... No codes stored in ABS..
Well replaced the front and back rotors and pads... Hawks hps in the front ebc greens in the back... Still not happy with brakes.. so decided to flush the system with new fluid(it was black).. put 3 quarts bottles through it using a vacuum pump.. fluid is clean but brakes are still not what I expect... The wheels will just not lock up...Also want to mention the e-brakes at full pull will only hold the car up to 1000 rpm...
Not sure what to try next... thinking new calipers?? But not sure if that is the issue..Since none are leaking and they all release without issue..
Open to suggestions..thoughts...opinions
Originally Posted by Speedjester
That's the first thing I checked.. No crack.. And the booster is assisting and holding vacuum..... No codes stored in ABS..
I'll let that one speak for itself.
Keep in mind the Corvette has a LOT of traction, invoking the ABS on dry pavement may NOT happen. Try braking in a turn see if the ABS kicks on. Even though you are "testing" your brakes for "lock up" on the street. You may not be hitting them as hard as you think you are. I've done this too on the street and NOT had the ABS engage. When I auto-x I have the ABS activate on occasion for the simple fact I'm hitting them harder.
Keep in mind the Corvette has a LOT of traction, invoking the ABS on dry pavement may NOT happen. Try braking in a turn see if the ABS kicks on. Even though you are "testing" your brakes for "lock up" on the street. You may not be hitting them as hard as you think you are. I've done this too on the street and NOT had the ABS engage. When I auto-x I have the ABS activate on occasion for the simple fact I'm hitting them harder.
The abs does kick in..tried it on a gravel road .... But I'm starting to believe that might the issue... The car does slow down quickly...
The HP pads are a high friction compound that will need new discs every 2nd or third pad change, your problem lies with the booster if you cannot get the abs to kick in with that combo. I have the J55 front brakes with HP plus pads front and rear and they are fantastic, there is nothing wrong with gravity bleeding the brakes if there is no one there to pump the pedal for you. If your brake caliper pistons moved back easy when changing pads, they should not be seized that points back to the booster.
(is your pedal hard? not spongy i recommend just taking the bleeders out and gravity bleed the system, i suspect you may have some air in the system or master cylinder if the booster is ok.)
Good luck
Last edited by gerardvg; Jun 8, 2012 at 06:37 AM.
Reason: more info
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
Are you still getting black fluid out of the brake calipers?
Yes = go to thy autozone and get all 4 rebuilt calipers
When you replaced the pads did you replace the rotors as well?
NO = get some brakekleen (I use the generic walmart brand) and some steel wool and clean front and back side of the rotor real well. then bed the pads in again.
did you "bed in" the new pads and rotors properly ?
I believe I did... I burnished them in per Manufactures spec...
Originally Posted by gerardvg
The HP pads are a high friction compound that will need new discs every 2nd or third pad change, your problem lies with the booster if you cannot get the abs to kick in with that combo. I have the J55 front brakes with HP plus pads front and rear and they are fantastic, there is nothing wrong with gravity bleeding the brakes if there is no one there to pump the pedal for you. If your brake caliper pistons moved back easy when changing pads, they should not be seized that points back to the booster.
(is your pedal hard? not spongy i recommend just taking the bleeders out and gravity bleed the system, i suspect you may have some air in the system or master cylinder if the booster is ok.)
Good luck
I put 3 full quarts through the system.. Vacuum bleeding slowly from each corner... I spent close to 4 hrs bleeding it... I used a clear hose on the bleeder and saw no bubbles... The fluid was really dirty... I tested the booster by removing vacuum letting brakes go to floor and reapplying vacuum ...pedal dropped an extra 2".. Visual inspection with mirrors showed no cracks... Idle holding solid regardless of brake peddle position..
I will crack the bleeders again...I should also mention I never bled the abs unit..<---could that be an issue?...
Originally Posted by jaa1992
Are you still getting black fluid out of the brake calipers?
Yes = go to thy autozone and get all 4 rebuilt calipers
When you replaced the pads did you replace the rotors as well?
NO = get some brakekleen (I use the generic walmart brand) and some steel wool and clean front and back side of the rotor real well. then bed the pads in again.
The fluid is clear now... But it sure took a while to get it clear..yes I replaced all pads and rotors.. New reabesto rotors all 4 corners,Hawk hps on the front...ebc greens on the rear...
This won't solve your problem but when I bled my brakes of their brown fluid after it came out clear I compressed the caliper pistons to push the fluid in the pistons out into the line so I could bleed out that brown fluid too.
you didnt mention it but what about the flexible lines, how old are they ?
I thought of that..Not sure how old they are...I did give them a good once over... And held the rubber lines while my buddy applied brake pressure.. I didn't feel anything unusual...but I know most of the time the issue is inside the line... If I go for new calipers the rubber lines will be changed out also..
Originally Posted by ProjectC4
This won't solve your problem but when I bled my brakes of their brown fluid after it came out clear I compressed the caliper pistons to push the fluid in the pistons out into the line so I could bleed out that brown fluid too.