C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

86 Power Door Lock Problem

Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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blacknsilver86
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Default 86 Power Door Lock Problem

Hello, I am new to Corvettes so this 86 is my first and I am hooked. It's like drivin a dang go cart! Anyways the power door lock switch only works to lock the car, and I have already replaced the switch and harness connector. Figure it cant be a fuse since it still has power. Passenger side switch acts the same and will slowly lock after a slight pause. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Default Actually...

Originally Posted by blacknsilver86
Hello, I am new to Corvettes so this 86 is my first and I am hooked. It's like drivin a dang go cart! Anyways the power door lock switch only works to lock the car, and I have already replaced the switch and harness connector. Figure it cant be a fuse since it still has power. Passenger side switch acts the same and will slowly lock after a slight pause. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had this problem with my '90. One side didn't work at all due to a little plastic connector that was busted. The other was reaaaaaaaally slow and would only slowly lock, if at all.

Turned out that the brushes in the lock actuators were dirty. Drilled the rivets out, took the motors apart and cleaned the brushes. It's been a year and I haven't had any problems with them since. The job isn't hard, but I didn't take any pictures. I can try to textually walk you through it, if you decide to check it out. I figured it wouldn't hurt when I did it because those motors are EXPENSIVE to replace.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 08:45 PM
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the info I would be willing to try that, but first the rest of the story. The power locks were working fine until I cut out the switch to wire in a remote. I had it working with the remote lock and unlock, but for some reason when I wired the switch back into the loop I must have burnt out something electrical because it would only lock. So I removed the remote wiring and put it back the way I found it, except it doesn't work correctly now, only locks. I messed something up or shorted something out that was working fine before I touched it.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by C422
I had this problem with my '90. One side didn't work at all due to a little plastic connector that was busted. The other was reaaaaaaaally slow and would only slowly lock, if at all.

Turned out that the brushes in the lock actuators were dirty. Drilled the rivets out, took the motors apart and cleaned the brushes. It's been a year and I haven't had any problems with them since. The job isn't hard, but I didn't take any pictures. I can try to textually walk you through it, if you decide to check it out. I figured it wouldn't hurt when I did it because those motors are EXPENSIVE to replace.
I am having the same problem you describe with my right door lock; works, but very slow & only after repeated clicks of the button. I want to try to clean the brushes as you suggest.

My question is, did you have any problem drilling the rivets out AND did you re-rivet the unit back in or did you use screws & nuts?
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 02:15 PM
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Default Screws 'n nuts

Originally Posted by pmihaltian
I am having the same problem you describe with my right door lock; works, but very slow & only after repeated clicks of the button. I want to try to clean the brushes as you suggest.

My question is, did you have any problem drilling the rivets out AND did you re-rivet the unit back in or did you use screws & nuts?
I think I actually used a conical Dremel tool tip for it, but it wasn't a problem at all. I used screws afterward, because rivets are a pain.

The only issue was getting the brushes back in originally
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