I am hearing a noise coming from under the console. The noise almost sounds like a CV joint going out. The noise occurs mostly when turning left and going over a bump. However, there are times you hear it going on a straight away. You can also barely hear the noise when the car is in neutral and I rev the engine. Like I said it sounds like it is coming from under the console, which is inline with the end of the transmission and where the U-joint is. I had the transmission out last summer, but this sound just started. Any ideas?

On a second note, how difficult is it for a shade tree mechanic to rebuild one of these beasts? or change the transmission out to an automatic....or would I be better off just purchasing a rebuilt 4+3 with the overdrice unit?

 

Depends what you are playing with
Trans is just a regular Super T10 4 spd
the overdrive unit is basically a mini Powerglide automatic requiring some specialized tools

See if you are up for this
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...Overdrive+Unit

You would get the trans rebuilt locally and buy the O/d ( $1200+ exh )

What makes you think the O/d needs rebuilding?

 

Everything on the trans appears to work fine...the unit seems to shift in and out of OD with ease and on time. There does not seem to be any problems shifting through any of the gears. Otherwise, the noise sounds like some bearing/gears/or something is about to fall apart.

The sound seems to come from an area where the yoke, drive shaft, and rear of tranny connect.

 

Thanks for the info. I do not think I will try this unless I can get a buddy of mine to help. He builds automatic transmissions. I have wiggeled the drive shaft and nothing seems to be loose. However, there does seem to be some play in the clutch release lever and I can hear the release bearing hitting the splines of the pressure plate. I do not know if this is normal. Should there be any play in the clutch release lever?

 

So far, what I have discovered is that the U joints had a catch in it and the clutch fork is designed for a 80's/90's model pick up truck. The pivot ball also has some damage to it. Have the fork on order from Corvette Central as well as the pivot ball.

 

Last posting for this thread. The fork that was on my car was GM part number 15592270. I almost purchased this part from Ecklers for $149, that is, until I noticed in the picture their fork had the exact same part number stamped on it. If you do a look up for this part number you will find that it fits GMC small pick up trucks, SUV's, and suburban's from 1985 to about 1991. I went to the local GM dealer, and they provided me with part number 14048868...if you do a look up on this, the part fits a '84-'88 Corvette. Not sure why someone would put a pick up truck part in a Corvette, but putting the correct fork in seems to have solved the chirpping noise in the clutch housing. By the way, Corvette Central was able to cross reference the GM part number and provide the correct part. There is a slight difference between the two, mainly in the bend of the fork. The truck fork has a larger bend and the Vette fork is more straight. Also, the pivot points on the two are positioned approximately 1/4 of an inch off from one another.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=26897

 

Since this post, I developed another noise that sounded like it was transmission. I was at a loss for some time as to what the problem was until I noticed that the after market CAT was scraping against the seat belt bolt. I went to a local muffler shop and they welded on a rod attached to a rubber strap that keeps the exhaust system pulled away from this bolt. It has tightened up the exhaust quite nicely, and only cots $25!

 

Read this post with some interest. I recently removed a Saginaw 4 spd manual from my 1984 and replaced it with a used Nash 4+3 that is should have had I the first place. I felt fine and shofted smoothly on the bench. I had to get a new clutch/pressure plate as the input shaft splines were different. I also had to get a shorter drive shaft. Installed smoothly (except for that damn support rail).

Was driving it around and it shifted smoothly but the clutch pedal throw was a bit short for my liking. I bled the clutch fluid/cylinder without much noticeable pedal height improvement.

Now I am starting to get a noise that sounds like the clutch throwout bearing (also new) is vibrating and making bad noise (sounds like when you are drilling with a dull bit without oil) and at times I need to double clutch it to down shift, indicating to me a possible inadequate disengagement. It goes away when I release the clutch. I am wondering if I may need to swap the clutch fork as you did. Not sure what mine has for a part number, but if it is the flatter of the two in your pics, that may be my problem.
My question is did your clutch pedal height and travel change (increase) when you changed the clutch fork? I am hoping I can pull the pivot pin to remove the fork and not have to drop the tranny again...