VATS decoder code ID?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The VATS module does two things: enable the starter relay and send a 30 Hz square wave to the ECM, which will then enable the injectors. You can buy bypass modules that will do these functions without reading the key pellet.
Reminds me... Many years ago I was at a Corvette event and I got in the car with a friend of mine with a '65 convertible (the top was down). He grabbed the ignition switch with his hand and started the car -- no key! I couldn't believe it and asked him if he wasn't worried about somebody stealing his car. His answer: "THEY don't know that it doesn't need a key".
Reminds me... Many years ago I was at a Corvette event and I got in the car with a friend of mine with a '65 convertible (the top was down). He grabbed the ignition switch with his hand and started the car -- no key! I couldn't believe it and asked him if he wasn't worried about somebody stealing his car. His answer: "THEY don't know that it doesn't need a key".
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
[QUOTE=WVZR-1;1581369913]I researched further and Cliff's module that he ID'd as a 16045121 would be correct and possibly an original production number.
The progression seems to go 16045121 > 1227760 > 1228548. The 16080151 that the eBay auction references is also a part number that changes to a service number of 1228548 which is what the "seller" is selling.
What is the part # on the module that you've purchased?[/QUOTE]
The module that I bought is 16039969 with 8709 below that.
It was listed as 85 thru 89 IIRC which I though to be kinda iffy..but it was cheap and it was/is mine...
The board however, is completely different than the one in Cliffs photos.. so I will first see if the plug in is the same,. and if so, I'll read the resistor color codes and go from there...
if the plug is NOT the same I'll have a VATS module for a 19?? C4 for sale...
The progression seems to go 16045121 > 1227760 > 1228548. The 16080151 that the eBay auction references is also a part number that changes to a service number of 1228548 which is what the "seller" is selling.
What is the part # on the module that you've purchased?[/QUOTE]
The module that I bought is 16039969 with 8709 below that.
It was listed as 85 thru 89 IIRC which I though to be kinda iffy..but it was cheap and it was/is mine...
The board however, is completely different than the one in Cliffs photos.. so I will first see if the plug in is the same,. and if so, I'll read the resistor color codes and go from there...
if the plug is NOT the same I'll have a VATS module for a 19?? C4 for sale...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
16039969 is a theft module that goes back to '81MY for Corvettes. It does early to later 80's Eldorado, Tornado, Riviera and some others. It seems there's an application for it as a theft module for '84 & 85 MY Corvettes as well as the '81 and '82 MY. It looks to have changed when VATS came along in '86MY.
I found an earlier part # for this module 16012660 that in 1983 $$$ was $180.00 from GM!
Yours should look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-C4-...05%26rk%3D1%26
I found an earlier part # for this module 16012660 that in 1983 $$$ was $180.00 from GM!
Yours should look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-C4-...05%26rk%3D1%26
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jul 22, 2012 at 08:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I have to tear mine apart this week so I'll get the part number off the original module and post that...right now its installed and dash is semi assembled but I'm pulling the cluster this week to do the complete repair from the bantee website...Once back in the dash I wil get that number. Had it written down somewhere but like most things on my desk its grown legs or has crawled under something. One of the mutant mosquitos may have carted off that sheet of note paper..I dunno. I'll get back to you in a day or two...I'm no where near done wth this until its fixed right. I DO appreciate your help and all the research. Thats the best part of this website...all the research thats done trying to help other people with their problems is like classroom if you pay attention.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 41
From: Baltimore, MD USA
the Alarm module and the Decoder module.
The modules are contained in the same style plastic case.
You can see there is a difference in the circuit board edge connector
fingers.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) module is the one that reads the pellet in the key and enables the starter relay and injectors through the ECM.
The other module is a TDS (Theft Deterrent System). It is controlled by locking/unlocking the doors and honks the horn if a door is opened without disarming it.
The other module is a TDS (Theft Deterrent System). It is controlled by locking/unlocking the doors and honks the horn if a door is opened without disarming it.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
Actually using a different resource the 16039969 has applications for Corvettes through '89 model year. Are both of these present on '86 - '89MY cars? Likely?
Not having a FSM for any of the model years it would be difficult for me to confirm. Perhaps someone with years '86 - '89 could confirm it's use and also the location!
This thread and his problem/symptoms might be a confirmation of there actually being "both" present in '86 - 89MY and how easily it is to confuse the two:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1581381989
Not having a FSM for any of the model years it would be difficult for me to confirm. Perhaps someone with years '86 - '89 could confirm it's use and also the location!
This thread and his problem/symptoms might be a confirmation of there actually being "both" present in '86 - 89MY and how easily it is to confuse the two:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1581381989
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jul 23, 2012 at 04:15 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
Thanks..
I've read what the FSM has to say and it tells you to use the interrogator to find the code of a replacement module while installed...
The process is basically trial & error. Try code 1 then wait 4 min then try code 2 and so on...
IF I can find the tables (charts) that show the resistor values for each code then I'll invest $8 in resistors and do the trial & error method at home. Then I can take that info and have a new key cut thats the correct code and fits my lock cyl.
I'll ask the question anyway...and make a few calls monday.
If someone has that chart thats used for making a VATS key bypass, I'd sure like to have a copy !
I've read what the FSM has to say and it tells you to use the interrogator to find the code of a replacement module while installed...
The process is basically trial & error. Try code 1 then wait 4 min then try code 2 and so on...
IF I can find the tables (charts) that show the resistor values for each code then I'll invest $8 in resistors and do the trial & error method at home. Then I can take that info and have a new key cut thats the correct code and fits my lock cyl.
I'll ask the question anyway...and make a few calls monday.
If someone has that chart thats used for making a VATS key bypass, I'd sure like to have a copy !
Hey Lee, I used this, works great to find out the resistance key you need
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Directed-Ele...item3cc8bce3de
Hey Lee, I used this, works great to find out the resistance key you need
Hey Lee, I used this, works great to find out the resistance key you need
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
wvzr1, not selling any thing , it just worked to find the key value, dont know what else you're talking bout. not suggesting anything to you, just tryin to help the op without all the buy all these extra tools and parts mess... $25?? in that fleabay ad its $9 with a little research its $4. mabye you should concentrate on the ops issue instead of this non helpfull nauseating dribble.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: FLA
Vats
I have a module option 12, and a Vats Interrogator --$175.00 shipped US.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
- 1986 Original Owner -
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 3,193
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From: North Yorkshire, England
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I have a module option 12, and a Vats Interrogator --$175.00 shipped US.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I have a module option 12, and a Vats Interrogator --$175.00 shipped US.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1932.jpg
Eventually will post these on ebay, ran across this thread and figured maybe this could help...
Too many projects on the "list". Hard to prioritize sometimes.
Does make me wonder where all the VATS interrogators went as they were phased out of service? lost in a box in somebodies attic perhaps? Lots of outdated tools and equipment up there...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I did not see this until now...
its painfully obvious that I have an alarm module, not another decoder.
Its back to the drawing board.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
4.70 would be #11 according to:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/89_passkey.htm
If you measure on the 20K range you have to multiply by 1000 to get ohms (K = 1000). 4.70K = 4700 ohms
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/89_passkey.htm
If you measure on the 20K range you have to multiply by 1000 to get ohms (K = 1000). 4.70K = 4700 ohms
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Going back to this...
does anyone have an idea where the alarm module is mounted?
I cannot find one in my car although something is there to manage the alarm/noise maker. My Decoder module is under the breadbox as described.. I see a smaller module behind the fuse panel that might be the '87 version of the alarm module. The wire colors are right but its 1/2 the size of the module in the photo...
does anyone have an idea where the alarm module is mounted?
I cannot find one in my car although something is there to manage the alarm/noise maker. My Decoder module is under the breadbox as described.. I see a smaller module behind the fuse panel that might be the '87 version of the alarm module. The wire colors are right but its 1/2 the size of the module in the photo...
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 148
Likes: 1
Leesvet,
There is a much simpler way and it will only cost you $1.
Forget about the interrogating the module. Measure the resistance of the diode pellet in your current ignition key. Get a resistor to match that (within 2% will work fine) and swap out the reference resistor on the board of the decoder module. This will save you the cost of getting new keys.
There is a much simpler way and it will only cost you $1.
Forget about the interrogating the module. Measure the resistance of the diode pellet in your current ignition key. Get a resistor to match that (within 2% will work fine) and swap out the reference resistor on the board of the decoder module. This will save you the cost of getting new keys.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Leesvet,
There is a much simpler way and it will only cost you $1.
Forget about the interrogating the module. Measure the resistance of the diode pellet in your current ignition key. Get a resistor to match that (within 2% will work fine) and swap out the reference resistor on the board of the decoder module. This will save you the cost of getting new keys.
There is a much simpler way and it will only cost you $1.
Forget about the interrogating the module. Measure the resistance of the diode pellet in your current ignition key. Get a resistor to match that (within 2% will work fine) and swap out the reference resistor on the board of the decoder module. This will save you the cost of getting new keys.
I'm well past resistors.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
Going back to this...
does anyone have an idea where the alarm module is mounted?
I cannot find one in my car although something is there to manage the alarm/noise maker. My Decoder module is under the breadbox as described.. I see a smaller module behind the fuse panel that might be the '87 version of the alarm module. The wire colors are right but its 1/2 the size of the module in the photo...
does anyone have an idea where the alarm module is mounted?
I cannot find one in my car although something is there to manage the alarm/noise maker. My Decoder module is under the breadbox as described.. I see a smaller module behind the fuse panel that might be the '87 version of the alarm module. The wire colors are right but its 1/2 the size of the module in the photo...
