Need Urgent Help!
you have a MAF, not the MAP, but same animal. you can try unplugging it and the ecm will use a default setting. if it runs ok, that is a clue.

Who is "they" that's telling you all of this?
Do some trouble-shooting.
Is the fuel pressure regulator ok?
What's the fuel pressure?
Does the fuel pressure hold?
Ohm check the injectors
Is the cold-start injector ok?
Are there any codes? If so, what are they?
Did you check the EGR valve? If not, why do you want to replace it?
What's the timing set at? Did you check it properly?
or....just keep throwing parts at it. You might get lucky or you might have to spend a few thousand dollars.
Howcome its MAF and not MAP? I bought it from rockauto online and they mentioned it is MAP, please dont tell me i bought the wrong item
this means ill have to wait for another week..Ill try unplugging the MAF
Howcome its MAF and not MAP? I bought it from rockauto online and they mentioned it is MAP, please dont tell me i bought the wrong item
this means ill have to wait for another week..Ill try unplugging the MAF
I assume black, rich smoke, but you didn't say. that can point to coolant temp sensor, if you have a code 15 or 14. also injectors, fuel press regulator.
I am guessing that you are not familiar with pulling codes yourself, thru aldl?
Last edited by joe paco; Jul 10, 2012 at 05:04 PM. Reason: correct to 15
Last edited by joe paco; Jul 10, 2012 at 04:59 PM. Reason: add
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Howcome its MAF and not MAP? I bought it from rockauto online and they mentioned it is MAP, please dont tell me i bought the wrong item
this means ill have to wait for another week..Ill try unplugging the MAF
Trouble-shoot the items I mentioned above.
- The fuel pressure regulator is under the plenum towards the rear. Pull the vacuum line off. If there is fuel in it, the regulator is bad.
- Fuel pressure should be 39-43psi and hold with the key off, slowly bleeding down ~10psi over the course of 20-30 minutes
- Injectors should ohm test 15-16 ohms hot & cold. If an injector is over or under, it's bad.
- Remove the cold start injector and check for signs of leakage
The EGR isn't the issue. You'll get rough running, but not the other symptoms you describe. Nonetheless, you can remove it and verify it fully closes.
- How to check L98 base timing is well documented. A quick search will yield multiple threads. The cliff notes: Disconnect the ESC wire. Start the engine. Check timing...should be 6* BTDC, although it'll run fine anywhere between 4* BTDC and 10* BTDC.
For the record...your '88 is a MAF car. It also has a MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is used to keep the car running if the MAF fails. '90 L98 cars switched to Speed Density, using only the MAP (no MAF on the car). '91-'93 are also MAP cars (no MAF). '94-'96 cars switched back to MAF with MAP as a back-up.






