C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

hyper extended clutch fork

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Default hyper extended clutch fork

I had this issue about 6 months ago and it went away and now its back worse than ever.... When I press the clutch all the way down I can hear a clicking sound that revs up with the motor. Well now I have even less clutch throw now I only have 3/4 and its making the noise..... My question how hard is it to yank the zf6 out and put back in and can it be done on jack stands? Does anyone have a write-up on this procedure.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Default

Here is a clip of the noise it makes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrmN...e_gdata_player
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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I've pulled a ZF before with the car on jackstands. Little cramped but doable.
(1) drop exhaust system and x brace (if so equipped)
(2) drain oil from ZF;
(3) use floor jack to support ZF;
(4) remove C beam (suspension support brace in GM speak);
(5) undo rear ubolts or retainer clips from rear U joint on drive shaft; slide drive shaft to rear and out;
(6) unplug various electrical wiring from ZF;
(7) unbolt and detach the clutch slave cylinder from the bell housing; tie off and support the clutch slave cylinder ;
(8) inside car, remove shifter ****;
(9) inside car, remove center glove box door; this allows:
(10) remove console panel and shifter boot; this accesses:
(11) remove inner (lower) shifter boot;
(12) back under car, lower hydraulic jack to allow ZF to angle down;
(13) place large piece of wood under oil pan and place jackstand under it to support rear of engine when trans is removed;
(14) remove four large bolts holding trans to bellhousing;
(15) using jack to support trans, work trans to the rear and downward until free of clutch and bellousing; continue to drop trans out of car;
(16) before attempting to remove bellhousing: remove clutch fork stud from bellhousing by (VERY IMPORTANT) screwing it CLOCKWISE into the bellhousing (towards the engine); this releases the PULL type clutch from the throw out bearing and clutch fork assembly;
(17) undo the bellhousing to engine bolts from around the perimeter of the bellhousing ; remove bellhousing.

I'm sure I may have forgotten something, but once you get into the project, its all pretty straight forward except maybe the C beam removal; when the manual says "finesse"........

good luck
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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mtwoolford hit all the pertinent points. About the only fine-tuning I would do is relative to the lower shift boot. Rather than remove it, just unbolt it from the transmission (4 10mm acorn nuts hold it in place). The shifter will then slide right through the rubber boot. If you remove it, trying to get it to seal around the perimeter of the transmission tunnel during assembly is a PIA due to poor access.

Other than the above....it is a heavy transmission. Nonetheless, one person can do it with a little patience and a decent floor jack.
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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Default I did this twice

I had a clutch arm that was hitting the clutch because the pivot ball had loosened up and moved the arm close to the clutch fingers making it noisy to use the clutch. I tried to salvage the pivot ball but the threads were cashed. 3 months later I had the same old problem. The second time I bought a new pivot ball (very difficult to find). I did NOT buy an arm but I wish I would have. Occasionally the clutch makes noise and I think it is due to the arm not being 100%.
If you haven't done the job I would change both as well as the dual mass flywheel.
God Luck
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