Still can't get my rear calipers wide enough
#1
Drifting
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Still can't get my rear calipers wide enough
Trying to put in new rotors and pads. I can put the old ones back, but the old rotors have been turned once and the pads are worn. Here are pics side by side the new ones. Don't think I have the right tools to get the thing wide enough.... Any ideas?
Tried the whole wood press thing, couldn't really get a good hold of it. always odd angles.
Tried the whole wood press thing, couldn't really get a good hold of it. always odd angles.
#2
Burning Brakes
I have used the wood block, old pads, whatever, many times. after I shim the wood block where I need it, I insert a wide blade "crow bar" and twist the handle. if you measure the opening against your rotor, pads, it should fit, no?
#5
Burning Brakes
Quite often the pads are "rebuilt" and are thicker than stock because they assume the rotors have been turned so in order to meet spec the pads are thicker.
Otherwise you have to retract the caliper all the way and sometimes it takes cracking the bleed port to do it. Sometimes the bore inside will get corroded and the puck can't go all the way back in.
Otherwise you have to retract the caliper all the way and sometimes it takes cracking the bleed port to do it. Sometimes the bore inside will get corroded and the puck can't go all the way back in.
#6
#8
Le Mans Master
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Do you use the parking brake? Sometimes along with the c-clamp method you have to screw in the parking brake piston.
#9
Race Director
With the old pads in the caliper, I use a pair of screwdrivers, then the handles of 2 breaker bars or whatever will fit and push with one and pull on the other so they work against each other and push the pads apart. Keep pushing until the pistons are seated in the caliper.
#10
Safety Car
The parking brake as long as it is off, should NOT keep the piston from going in at all. They are separate NOT like the newer GM integral calipers at all where you have to screw them back in.
Use an old pad and a c clamp, crack the bleeder open. If it will not go. The caliper is jammed and junk or you could get a rebuild kit and hope for the best.
Use an old pad and a c clamp, crack the bleeder open. If it will not go. The caliper is jammed and junk or you could get a rebuild kit and hope for the best.
#15
Le Mans Master
It shouldn't be hard with a C-clamp - or if it is, you need to rebuild it. There's only atmospheric pressure on the system at rest. It doesn't hurt of course to get any crud off the outside of the piston first and/or you can carefully lift the boot and spray in some fast evap brake cleaner.
#16
Safety Car
It shouldn't be hard with a C-clamp - or if it is, you need to rebuild it. There's only atmospheric pressure on the system at rest. It doesn't hurt of course to get any crud off the outside of the piston first and/or you can carefully lift the boot and spray in some fast evap brake cleaner.
#17
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Jam a big flat screwdriver between the rotor and the pad and pull.
#19
Melting Slicks
It's very close with new pads and rotors, but use a big C clamp or get a caliper piston compressor tool and using the old pad make sure the piston is seated all the way in the caliper. Then grab a beer :-)