Halfshaft U-Joint removal procedure.
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Palestine TX
Halfshaft U-Joint removal procedure.
I've seen and read Scorp's excellent procedure on this, but have a couple of questions:
1) Why remove the camber bolt? Why not remove the bolt at the outer end instead? You wouldn't mess up the alignment that way.
2) Is it really necessary to remove the tie rod? I can see where it might free things up a bit, but don't you get enough movement with it still attached? I've never been able to use a pickle fork without ruining the grease boot.
1) Why remove the camber bolt? Why not remove the bolt at the outer end instead? You wouldn't mess up the alignment that way.
2) Is it really necessary to remove the tie rod? I can see where it might free things up a bit, but don't you get enough movement with it still attached? I've never been able to use a pickle fork without ruining the grease boot.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: Halfshaft U-Joint removal procedure. (Katy)
Removing just the camber bolt won't give you enough room to pull the shaft. I removed the outer bolt on the knuckle and then removed the two bolts that anchor the arm to the rear end. That way you don't disturb the alignment. You have to pull the tie rod for clearance. Just remove the cotter pin and castle nut and try to pull it off by hand. Mine came right off without the use of a tie rod puller. Don't use a pickle fork as it will tear up the boot. You can borrow a puller from auto zone but be sure that it has at least a 4" jaw as the rear tie rods are longer than those on the front. :yesnod:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,556
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From: Jenison MI
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: Halfshaft U-Joint removal procedure. (ittlfly)
you don't have to do any of that... just remove the lower bolt and the two bolts the go to the two arms that go to the front. this will give you the room to get the shaft out... I just did this last Friday night I took two hours and I did not rush in any way ( could get it down to 1.5 if you try ) so the olny bolts you need to remove is on the nuckle. good luck.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Santa Rosa CA
Re: Halfshaft U-Joint removal procedure. (Katy)
I have attached the URL to Scorp's procedure below. There are a few people who would prefer not to remove the camber bolt and disturb the rear alignment, but several of us have opted for the complete teardown. While in there, the bushings, brakes, exhaust, and any changes to the differential can be made all at once, followed of course with a complete re-alignment. I took digital photos for the location of the camber bolt as well as marked its position. This way I can get it close in order to make it to the alignment shop.
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Glad you guys found the site.
I just did my left u-joint tonight again because a shot wheel bearing took out the outter u-joint. Anyways, you CAN only remove in outter camber bolt if you'd like. The reason I left the inner bolt removal in the procedure is that it gives you something with leverage to pull down on (the camber rod) and push the knuckle out.
Either way you are fine, just mark the alignment like I point out in the procedure if you decide to pull the inner one. Also the outter bolt is sort of tough to align. It has to be aligned PERFECTLY or the bolt won't go through and you can mess up the threads bigtime if you try to hammer it though. There are 6 little "bumps" inside that will rip into the threads if you don't have it spot on.
I just did my left u-joint tonight again because a shot wheel bearing took out the outter u-joint. Anyways, you CAN only remove in outter camber bolt if you'd like. The reason I left the inner bolt removal in the procedure is that it gives you something with leverage to pull down on (the camber rod) and push the knuckle out.
Either way you are fine, just mark the alignment like I point out in the procedure if you decide to pull the inner one. Also the outter bolt is sort of tough to align. It has to be aligned PERFECTLY or the bolt won't go through and you can mess up the threads bigtime if you try to hammer it though. There are 6 little "bumps" inside that will rip into the threads if you don't have it spot on.
