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Well its summer and of course the A/C ran out in my 87'. (not a good thing in AZ.)The stock compressor is leaking from both the drive side and the rear.
R-12 is selling for about $20-$30 for 12 oz. It looks like "new compressor time" anyway.
Would you guys recommend the 134A route? I heard the latter will eventually break down the hoses and seals/O rings in an R-12 system. A rebuilt compressor w/clutch @ Autozone comes R-12 & a 1 yr. warranty and the 134A conversion kit available for more $$.
As always any help is appreciated. ;)
Yes go 134a. R-12 will get more expensive to not only buy but to reclaim, recycle and dispose of. I agree its not as cool they say by only 5* but its noticable when you first put a/c on.
R-12 has no future in the US. Its production is banned in all of the Global Enviromental Treaty countries.
I work in the Commercial A/C industry and I can asure you that R-134a cools quite well, in a system designed for it. Its BTU/LB heat carring capacity is lower than R-12 but will work fine in the right system. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/.../retrguid.html
Check out this site. If you do it the way it says, you will freeze your butt off. The people that complain about R-134a are those that shortcut the process.
Gm designed the later C-4 cars with the new refrigerant in mind. Earlier cars will work with in about 90% of the R-12 capacity. The problem is an under sized condenser. You can change to a late model three row if you live in Arizona or something like that. Any moderate climate area will probably be OK.
Good luck.
I work in the Commercial A/C industry and I can asure you that R-134a cools quite well, in a system designed for it. Its BTU/LB heat carring capacity is lower than R-12 but will work fine in the right system.
GM says to use what the system was designed for. So their take is to continue to use R12. Yep it costs more, but you are more then likely looking at a one time expense. Once the system is made right it should last much longer then you will have the car. So you are looking at a one time refergerent cost.
I have to agree with the 134 trip. I have been in a converted 85 vet and a convertd 84 Firebird that work great. I'm going to do my when it comes time.
The R-12 was low in my car and I did not want to pay all that money to have it put back in and to do the 134a change would cost me more then I wanted to spend at the time so I went with the Frezz 12 and I really line it and did not cost me to much I think it is like $7 a can.
My AC has never worked well since the conversion to 134. It usually just stops being cold in short order, and heats up my engine something terrible. OTOH, the 134 system in my C5 spews ice cubes! I have yet to try it when it gets really hot. Today would be good, it's supposed to hit 100 today.
My AC has never worked well since the conversion to 134. It usually just stops being cold in short order, and heats up my engine something terrible. OTOH, the 134 system in my C5 spews ice cubes! I have yet to try it when it gets really hot. Today would be good, it's supposed to hit 100 today.
Thanx for the super fast responses, The epa/gov site was a real help Don M. I will have to find out if the rebuilt compressor is tested with R-12. The article stated that the freon /oil puts on a protective coating which is recommended prior to a 134a retrofit. The additive should also help it last.
Your all a super resourse, which makes this site soooo Great ;)
Hmmm. I charged the system from empty... How much should it take?
Mojo, I am a residential AC technician, so this is a little out of my game, but I will give you my best opinion. I believe that the 134a charge is 80% of the r-12recomended charge. I know that when a system is overcharged it runs your head pressures up and this will increase the heat in the condenser. If the charge is not boiling off inside the evapator, then it will not absorb heat from the car. My experience has been a overcharged unit will not boil off in the evaperator, and can send liquid freon back to the compressor, which can lock it up. This is often referred to as slugging the compressor. If your factory r-12 charge is 2.25lbs then your r-134a charge would be 1.8 lbs. Thats what mine is on my 93. One other point, have you made sure your condenser fan is coming on? and what are your pressures, and outside temp when checking it?
go 134... there are additives that will make it compatiable with the existing hardware.
the real downside, it does not cool as well as r12...
Go R-134a. I converted last summer and no problems to date with system. There's a product called "MaxCool" available at AutoZone which takes the A/C temps down 10-12 degrees cooler if you need it.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that R134 decreases compressor life. I figuire my original AC has lasted 16 years now, when I redo my AC (which need to be soon as my compressor makes noise), I will redo it with R12.
Probably not, but with fewer cars relying on R12, the price is going to come down because nobody wants the stuff. Autozone realized this and they've been unloading their R12 inventory since early Spring at $10 to $15 a can. You will need a license, but you can get one online at http://www.epatest. com. Or you could get adventurous and take a road trip to Mexico where it's plentiful and runs 3 bucks a can. (Pray that you don't get caught bringing it back). Keep an eye out for it in your local newspaper. Someone was advertising it a couple of weeks ago in the San Diego newspaper for $150 for a 12 can case or $250 for 36 lb drum. Regardless of what you decide to use, the key to having a good system is to make sure you repair it right. Use quality components and have the right tools which includes a decent Manifold Gauge Set and vacuum pump.
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Re: Does R-12 Have a future? (mikes84vette)
I work in the Commercial A/C industry and I can asure you that R-134a cools quite well, in a system designed for it. Its BTU/LB heat carring capacity is lower than R-12 but will work fine in the right system.
For what you’re going to pay someone to do the conversion, you could purchase all the tools and do it yourself. The thermodynamics of you’re A/C system aren’t that complicated. I believe any competent person with a good A/C book could work on their own system. It really starts getting interesting when you start reading into “Blends”
Basically hydrocarbons. Did you know you can charge you’re A/C system with a mix of Propane and Butane and it will far out perform the R-12. Only downside to this is its flammable. Yeah kinda bad, but still cool.
Anyway, you’re going to need all new hoses (Barrier hoses) the R134a molecules are much smaller than the R-12, and they’ll leak right thru the R-12 hoses. You should be able to have them made at your local A/C shop, and a dual pass condenser is a must. Be sure to change the oil in the system, and don’t use PAG oil.