C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Pre Oiling/Priming an LT eng.

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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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From: Oakwood GA
Default Pre Oiling/Priming an LT eng.

Im looking at a 95 Vette thats been sitting 10 years. Is there any way of priming the oil pump on these eng's. No dis to remove to get to the pump. I thought of using an accumilator and pushing oil thru a gally plug or removing the psi sender and priming it that way.

Any ideas or experience would be healpful.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Lots of opinions on that subject.

Here is one...spray fogging oil into each cylinder. Disconnect the coil and turn the engine over a few times until you can see pressure on the gauge. Once you have pressure on the gauge then you can connect the coil again and start the car.

You could even do it without the fogging oil.

Even if an engine has been sitting there is still some oil on all the parts. It doesn't evaporate.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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10 years

Check this out to give you a heads up on what you are about to deal with.

Betty Boop was parked for nearly six months and I found rust on the gas tank lid, gasket and where it touches the tank. I had to use a wire brush to get cleaned up.

I bet there is clogs in the fuel tank, fuel line, FPR, injectors, rotors and other parts. I bet the coolant is sludged out and most of the rubber hoses are long gone.

Consider all the things you will have to fix to get it where it will operate correctly. Those things cost money.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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Good points above from Pete.

To prime engines that have sat for a long time, I do the following...
- Drain and refill with fresh oil and a new filter
- remove all the spark plugs
- Squirt a little oil into the cylinders
- Remove the coil wire and pull the fuel injector connectors
- Crank the engine several times
- Squirt a little more oil into the cylinders
- Crank the engine a few more times
- Reconnect coil wire, injector connectors, and install plugs
- Start engine

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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 11:57 PM
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Remove the fuel pump fuse and coil wire then crank the engine over until you have pressure.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Thanks all! I've done a little more research.
According to Carfax, it was last serviced at the dealer in 03 with all new fluids. According to the owner he got wrapped up with a home purchase and remodeling etc..etc...etc. The saddest part of this is, its a 60k mile car!, sitting!, OUTSIDE!! At the time it even had a new paint job and tires!
Suprising enough it still looks ,.....ok.The eng & compartment looks like it should for a 60k mile car.
I havent desided on purchasing it yet. Not sure if I want the project. The challange I would love, especially to bring it back to life!
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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There really isn't any difference in the oiling system of the Gen II Small Block Chevy (a.k.a. the LT1/LT4) over a Gen 1 Small Block. You are correct that you can't pull the distributor and spin over the oil pump - but if you have a way to pressurize oil (e.g. a tank that you can put a couple of quarts of oil in and put 30 psi of air pressure into - like an Accusump) - you can take off the oil filter use something like a remote filter adapter hooked to the oil filter mount and pressurize the system that way - or pressurize thru the oil pressure switch port.

But that's an awfull lot of work - as others have said I'd just pull the plugs (or at least most of them), squirt oil down the cylinders - let it sit a while and crank the engine over for a few seconds.

BTW - drain the gas tank before you even think of running any 10 year old gas through the fuel pump and injectors!!! You can get the gas out by just putting a hose (or a piece of 1/2" OD tube) down through the C4 filler neck, and either pump or siphon it out. Put a little fresh gas in the tank and then suck that out too - you want to make sure the old stuff is really gone. Then add a few gallons of fresh gas, put the plugs back in - hook the wires up, and twist the key.

You do know that pretty much every fluid in the car will need to be changed, as well as the battery.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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Ill tell you getting this car would be a big pain. I wont buy a car that has been sitting outside again. Every single connector desinigrates when you pull apart. I have one that has been garaged most its life and its such a joy to be able to use the connectors, and it has 145k on the clock. The two i owned with terrible connectors had 90k and 123k when i bought them. So annoying and costly.

It better be one hell of a deal. You will be replacing parts on this car and have all kinds of electrical grimlins for years to come.
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