Just wanted to pass on some stuff I learned while doing my header install. Thanks to VanSpeed for all the install questions he answered. I was concerned about fitment with my Canton road race pan. I previously had Lingenfelter 1 3/4 primaries and need to modify one tube just to clear the side sump on the drivers side. So with the ARH 1 3/4-1 7/8 stepped headers I thought fitment would be a problem. Brian (VanSpeed) posted up pics of his 85 with the same headers and it looked to clear relatively easily. So given my spark plug boot burning issue with the LPE/Brodix angle plug combo and the availability of the new clean sheet ARH stepped header, I bit the bullet and purchased a set through TJ Wong. Header install is one of the simplest I've done in years. Passenger side went in from the bottom by removing the starter, knock sensor and water temp sensor in head. Fed it in from the bottom and hung it by myself. The driver side I needed to remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, remove the fan switch in the head, and remove the long motor mount bolt and jack up the motor maybe an inch. I had help on this to feed it up and hang it on the head. I used ARP 5/16 headed bolts for header tube clearance and ease of installation and Earls pressure master gaskets in place of the supplied hardware.
Things to note:
* On my car which has a Motown block, Brodix heads and Canton pan, the ARH pipes clear the pan. But just barely. You can fit a mailing envelope between the front corner of the driver side sump and the primary tube. This differs from VanSpeeds install where you can clearly see light. I know some others have had to ding or modify the primary to clear the sump. *This clearly indicates that each car combination should be treated individually* Guys there is just no way for ARH or any other manufacturer to make a part fit many applications especially when there are such a myriad of aftermarket parts for our C4s that may or may not impact how their part fits.
*My car was a 4+3 car and to run a WB heated O2 sensor required that I move the O2 sensor to the passenger side bung due to interference with the bellhousing mounted slave cylinder. I made my own extension harness with weatherpaks and heat sleeve/shrink tube.
*My supplied x pipe was 1/4-3/8" to wide to slip onto the header collectors as installed on the car. I used wrapping foam from having the headers and x pipe coated to protect the finish and a racheting motorcycle tie strap to cinch the x together and slipped it right on the collectors.
*Adapting from the x pipe to my existing exhaust required that I use the supplied extension pieces and some stainless mandrel bends and cut and weld to properly mate with my cat back. Again, there is no way ARH or any manufacturer can cover every cat back made for our cars so unless your car is a stocker, you can be prepared for some mods.

So I'm done with the install & I have to say that the ARH system is a nice piece. Were there install issues? Yes. Am I happy with the finished product? Absolutely!!! Thanks to ARH for stepping up, doing the R & D and producing a product for a car many consider old news. My comments are by no means meant to be a slam towards ARH, but the exact opposite. Anytime you modify a car, you can expect some compromises in fitment of items from different manufacturers. Thats why they call hot rods "modified". Oh and on a positive note, now I can change all of my plugs in maybe 10 minutes. Before aside from the burnt boots, I could change just the passenger side on a very good day in 40 minutes.

Hope this helps anyone considering this system. And again thanks to VanSpeed for the info!!!

 

Thanks for the post -- good information!

As many times as I've wiggled and smacked the crap out of my exhaust pipes to get them apart / together, I've never thought about using a ratchet strap -- that's a great idea!

 

ARH

 

Mark, the ratcheting tie strap was more of a oops moment than anything else. I know better to prefit new parts. But got lazy and went ahead and had everything coated but the extension pipes. So sometimes things move a little when welded or the tubing springs back a little after being bent to the desired angle. Like I said I should know better. But when someone else has done the R & D for you, the hard parts done. A few tweaks here and there are to be expected. Always be a big fan of your build!!

 

Thanks for the post.

R/Noland

 

Pics would do this thread, some justice.

 

Dan, you know me and pictures??!! If you're offering to post them I'll take some. I gained like a solid 1/2 - 3/4" of ground clearance over my previous LPE headers and fabbed x pipe. Like I said all in all a very nice piece.

 

If you would like to, email me and I'll post them.

 

I'll try to get some good pics and send them off For you to post. Thanks as always Dan!!

 

Thanks for passing your experance on! Pics would be great. My setup is a little different, Canton 2pc rms RR pan, Eddy 185cc straight plug heads, Hooker (pn 2151?) Hooker Y pipe to a 3 1/2" single and a Richmond 6 speed. I plan on bolting this together outside the car first to check fit. I will take a few pics and try to figure out how to post them. or at least a link to photo bucket.

 

I'm going to wait on pics til I can get on a lift. Can't really get very good shots on the jackstands.

 

Widebody,

Glad you install was a success. Success can mean many things but it sounds like you were able get things together and running.

Brian

 

How are those pictures coming, and did you notice gains with the ARH's??

 

I really want the ARH stuff ( 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" stepped design), but I am worried if they will clear my canton rr oil pan.

All this said, my TPIS 1 3/4" (3" collector extensions) long tube headers clear the pan fine. Those headers have always fit perfectly.

 

I'll get pics eventually. I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel, so getting by the shop for the drive on lift is kinda on the backburner. Seat of the pants says it picked up. But it's hard to quantify how much harder you blow off the tires.

 

Widebody,

​​
My C4 is a 1987 ZZ4 gm crate engine, 4+3, etc. Some sprited driving , no racing.

I've got a few very Pesky Fitment issues with my installation and wondering if you had these issues or your thoughts on mod/s.

- Paggenger side, cylinder #4 exhaust tubing "where it is horizontal position after the first bend" touches the 2 fuel lines. I have pulled both fuel lines up and over the sheet metal ledge which now bring the fuels lines up and touching this cylinders tubing at the first bend from its flange. It would be a bit difficult to bend this area. There might me a better plan. Did you have this problem ??

- Drivers side, the collector is an Inch "into the oil filter space". ARH states (after the purchase) "Get an old C4 LT1 offset oil filter adapter". Problem is that I would lose the oil cooler. That's not acceptable for me as I won't delete the oil cooler and a remote is more fittings, line, very few mounting lcations, and a waste of $$ iMHO. Did you have this propblem ??

ARH Staff informs me they no of neither of these fitment problems.

Thanks

Michael

 

Bad picture or stepped ARH with the factory oil cooler and a remote filter.

 

I had the same fitment issues on my 85 Corvette. I decided to delete the oil cooler. I felt it was more of a liability to retain it anyways due to the risk of coolant mixing with oil if it failed. My oil temps increased less than 10*F after removing the cooler. If it ended up being an issue I would simply add an oil to air cooler rather than the stock oil to water setup but I think running synthetic oil is more than enough insurance against very slightly higher oil temps. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-packages.html

I had contact with the fuel lines in the same location. I added some DEI insulation wrap to the fuel lines and also used some steel band-it straps to pull the fuel lines as far away from the header as possible. I have had no issues with vapor lock or hot fuel.

 

383vette,

Thanks for the reply and photo. Nice job and means to keep the oil cooler.

I have a LT1 offset oil filter adapter on the way. I'm a serious diy, engineer, person and a friend of mine is the same, plus he's a retired Journeyman machinist. So the plan is to machine an offset oil filter adapter with the oil coller. You've probally seen the billet SBC oil filter adapters.

ACMX92

Well it's nice to know I'm not the only person that's had these two problems. ARH Tech tels me they have never heard of this before. I'll be nice and say nothing re that....

The passenger header is pushing on the fuel line, not just close.

I remembered today that my '87 has both the Feed and Return fuel filters. So I'm going to see if I can find plugs for the two fuel lines and remove the filters. It might be possible to re-route them under this header, If not then theres' the Project Job of removing them and Modifing to Fit

Temps seem about the same for me, closer on cool days. I've recently moved to the Bible Belt and We have many scorcher days, like this week.

If We can successfully complete this machined billet offset oil cooler, then oil and water can't mix

When I installed the new ZZ4 crate engine etc, I replaced all the coolant lines, mounts etc. Their still is excellet condidtion

Thanks,

Michaell..

 

Hi Michael, is there any chance of getting another one of the offset oil filter adapters made. I have a set of ARH 1 3/4" x 1 7/8" stepped Headers coming sometime this month and I very much like your offset adapter. I was told and it's on the website that one is needed. Is there any chance, at all, of getting another one of those for a fellow 1986 C4 lover? If so, do you have any idea how much he charges to make one?

Thank you Michaell.

Sincerely, Rich Williams
Astor, Florida 32102 USA!