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TPI Fuel Pump Reccomendations

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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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Default TPI Fuel Pump Reccomendations

Any reccomendations for a fuel pump? The original one failed in my IROC about 2 years ago so I put in a Walboro 255 from Racetronix and it appears to have failed. I remember reading somewhere that there were imitation Walboro pumps being produced which is why I bought one from Racetronix in the first place. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Tony
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:52 AM
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I have a 190 Walbro in mine that I got from Racetronix on a forum special quite awhile back now. It's still doing well! I would buy again.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Thanks for the input.......is it possible I just got a bad unit?

Tony
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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Just for some background........the car started acting up last week on the wife. She brought it home and put it partially in the garage to unload groceries. When she went to move it, the car wouldn't start. She asked me to look at it, but I was trying to finish the lawn. Once I did, it started and ran fine. Let it run and heat up, shut it off, restarted with no issues. Decided to take it to work the next day. Started fine, took it to the gas station and put in some fuel. When I went to start it, all it would do was crank. I have a fuel pressure gauge on it which read zero. I got a ride to work, came back at lunch and it fired right up. Started it after work and seemed fine. Again I let it run, shut it off and refired numerous times.fuel pressure was normal. A few days later I decided I would change the oil and take it for a spin. Changed the oil, started it and it ran fine. Shut it down, cleaned up, jumped in and nothing. I have tried numerous times since then and I have nothing on the gauge and no primiing when I turn the key. I am only assuming its the pump but I don't know what else it could be. My next step will be to order another kit and pull the tank again.

Tony
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 74L82AirRoadster
Just for some background........the car started acting up last week on the wife. She brought it home and put it partially in the garage to unload groceries. When she went to move it, the car wouldn't start. She asked me to look at it, but I was trying to finish the lawn. Once I did, it started and ran fine. Let it run and heat up, shut it off, restarted with no issues. Decided to take it to work the next day. Started fine, took it to the gas station and put in some fuel. When I went to start it, all it would do was crank. I have a fuel pressure gauge on it which read zero. I got a ride to work, came back at lunch and it fired right up. Started it after work and seemed fine. Again I let it run, shut it off and refired numerous times.fuel pressure was normal. A few days later I decided I would change the oil and take it for a spin. Changed the oil, started it and it ran fine. Shut it down, cleaned up, jumped in and nothing. I have tried numerous times since then and I have nothing on the gauge and no primiing when I turn the key. I am only assuming its the pump but I don't know what else it could be. My next step will be to order another kit and pull the tank again.

Tony
Perhaps it is an electrical issue with the factory harness, relay or ECM? It would be best to properly diagnose your problem using the factory GM manual before throwing parts at it.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
Perhaps it is an electrical issue with the factory harness, relay or ECM? It would be best to properly diagnose your problem using the factory GM manual before throwing parts at it.
I do plan on doing that as i have the factory service manuals and such. I'm on vacation for a few days but will most likely start working on it Sunday. I'll let you know the results of my findings. Are the Walboro pumps designed to deal with the ethanol they put in today's fuels?

Tony
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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Check your ground at the pump
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Check your ground at the pump
Will do....I did find the factory service manual and there really isn't a lot to troubleshoot with no pressure. Looks like only a few circuits and the relay. Hope to find out this weekend.

Tony
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
Perhaps it is an electrical issue with the factory harness, relay or ECM? It would be best to properly diagnose your problem using the factory GM manual before throwing parts at it.
I purchased a Walbro 255 from Racetronix about 1.5yrs old.

I am now suffering from extended cranking times and sputtering starts when it does finally catch.

No fuel coming out of the FPR vacuum line...brand new Bosch III from Jon at FIC

The mechanics initial thoughts this morning was the fuel pump is going bad....possibly the check valve he suspects....
the pulsator was removed 1.5yrs ago and replaced with injector hose.

Will post back with results from the shop later this week after they run the proper tests.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by raiderz
I purchased a Walbro 255 from Racetronix about 1.5yrs old.

I am now suffering from extended cranking times and sputtering starts when it does finally catch.

No fuel coming out of the FPR vacuum line...brand new Bosch III from Jon at FIC

The mechanics initial thoughts this morning was the fuel pump is going bad....possibly the check valve he suspects....
the pulsator was removed 1.5yrs ago and replaced with injector hose.

Will post back with results from the shop later this week after they run the proper tests.
Interested to hear the results! Thanks!

Tony
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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Default Racetronics Walbro 255

Originally Posted by raiderz
I purchased a Walbro 255 from Racetronix about 1.5yrs old.

I am now suffering from extended cranking times and sputtering starts when it does finally catch.

No fuel coming out of the FPR vacuum line...brand new Bosch III from Jon at FIC

The mechanics initial thoughts this morning was the fuel pump is going bad....possibly the check valve he suspects....
the pulsator was removed 1.5yrs ago and replaced with injector hose.

Will post back with results from the shop later this week after they run the proper tests.
Mine turned out to be 2 separate issues...the first was a loose hose clamp on the short piece of injector hose that replaced the pulsator.

New clamp solved the sputtering issue but the fuel pressure is still leaking down...but not at the rate is used to. I go from 43psi to zero in about 4 hrs now, which means the check valve on the Walbro is leaking slow but sure according to the shop tech.

I have a new Delphi pump ready to go once the problem gets worse.

I got exactly 1 yr and 7 months out of my Racetronics Walbro pump before the issues started....no warranty from what i see

Ray
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by raiderz
Mine turned out to be 2 separate issues...the first was a loose hose clamp on the short piece of injector hose that replaced the pulsator.

New clamp solved the sputtering issue but the fuel pressure is still leaking down...but not at the rate is used to. I go from 43psi to zero in about 4 hrs now, which means the check valve on the Walbro is leaking slow but sure according to the shop tech.

I have a new Delphi pump ready to go once the problem gets worse.

I got exactly 1 yr and 7 months out of my Racetronics Walbro pump before the issues started....no warranty from what i see

Ray
If debris was allowed to enter your pump and deposit on the valve seat then it could be leaking down. This can happen with the check-valve and pressure bypass valve. The check-valve can be carefully removed from the pump's outlet stem. Help with this can be requested in our support formum for paid customers.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Default Racetronix

Originally Posted by Racetronix
If debris was allowed to enter your pump and deposit on the valve seat then it could be leaking down. This can happen with the check-valve and pressure bypass valve. The check-valve can be carefully removed from the pump's outlet stem. Help with this can be requested in our support forum for paid customers.
Thanks for your tip and advice. I think when i am ready to swap out the pump i wont be going that route...sounds a little involved for a rookie....You guys want the pump back to inspect and refurbish...i'll take one of yours in exchange...still have my original receipt if you're interested

Ray
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by raiderz
Thanks for your tip and advice. I think when i am ready to swap out the pump i wont be going that route...sounds a little involved for a rookie....You guys want the pump back to inspect and refurbish...i'll take one of yours in exchange...still have my original receipt if you're interested

Ray
It is very simple to pop the valve out.
There is nothing to refurbish on a Walbro in-tank pump.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

I finally got a chance to toy with mine today. This is an IROC so I am sure it's a little different than the Vette.

I used the GM service manual and it says to run 12 volts to terminal G on the aldl connector to test the pump. While I heard the relay click, I got nothing from the pump. I then jacked the car and disconnected the harness that goes to the pump. It's a 3 wire connector on my car with black, purple and grey leads. The grounds checked out ok and I had 8.11 volts with the key on from the purple lead in the harness and nothing on the grey. I'd like to see more voltage there but I can only assume its the age of the car and the length of the leads. I looked through the manual but I didn't see anything that gave me exact values for each of the leads.

At this point it looks like its pointing to the pump. I have to remove the exhaust, lower the rear and take out the tank to get this pump out which I'll start tomorrow.

Tony
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 74L82AirRoadster
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

I finally got a chance to toy with mine today. This is an IROC so I am sure it's a little different than the Vette.

I used the GM service manual and it says to run 12 volts to terminal G on the aldl connector to test the pump. While I heard the relay click, I got nothing from the pump. I then jacked the car and disconnected the harness that goes to the pump. It's a 3 wire connector on my car with black, purple and grey leads. The grounds checked out ok and I had 8.11 volts with the key on from the purple lead in the harness and nothing on the grey. I'd like to see more voltage there but I can only assume its the age of the car and the length of the leads. I looked through the manual but I didn't see anything that gave me exact values for each of the leads.

At this point it looks like its pointing to the pump. I have to remove the exhaust, lower the rear and take out the tank to get this pump out which I'll start tomorrow.

Tony
Gray is + pump.
Violet is level sender.
You do not have pump power.
Perhaps you should seek help on our forum?

Last edited by Racetronix; Aug 20, 2012 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
Gray is + pump.
Violet is level sender.
You do not have pump power.
Perhaps you should seek help on our forum?
I just checked it again with the voltmeter, definitely no power on the grey wire. I did just put 12 volts to the pump and nothing so I'll have to investigate it more tomorrow.

Let me have the link to your forum and I'll check it out.

Tony
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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So I did some more research and it looks like I was testing things incorrectly. I put the voltmeter on the grey wire and had the wife turn the key.....low and behold, 11.65 volts just for a few seconds just as if you were to pressurize the fuel system. So now it does point to the pump. I'll know more in few days once I get it all apart.

Tony
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 07:43 AM
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Just a quick update on this.......I ended up pulling the tank and replacing the fuel pump and sending unit as the fuel gauge did not read correctly when full. That fixed the problem so we are back on the road again. Thanks for the help!
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