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Do what I did, upgrade to a 1988-1989 exhaust manifold where they bolt on.
it makes it is easier to adjust valves, and to disable te EGR, just slide a litle piece of .025 aluminum on top of the gasket, and it's gone........until you remove the little tab of alminum.
To eliminate the code, drill a .040" hole in the aluminum, and the egr tube will get hot, but hardy dilute the manifold with exhaust
That little clamp do-dad was discontinues almost immediately after it appeared on cars....such a complete POS that even GM saw it as junk. If its time to mess with that, get a muffler shop to weld or braze in a flange like the other end that has the 2 bolts that the other guys are talkin about. Its the later design that uses bolts instead of a goofy clamp that nobody ever had...quick and easy to remove as previously stated.
Its a tube brazed to the #8 exhaust tube, sticks up a few inches where it then has the flange. The EGR tube is the flex tubing with a flange on both ends so its easily bolted to the exhaust tube and the manifold on the other end. Same gasket on both ends.
I do not believe those crimp ons are available anymore. It'll have to be brazed if you cannot replace it.
Doing a manifold port job right now and my plan is to re-use it but cut the pinch section off and just use a hose clamp around it to keep it snug. There's no real heavy pressure and I bet I could just re-use. I did see this clamp available in Eckler's or one of the suppliers and it was $15. So...I decided to try to figure a way to re-use mine.
great suggestions, I'm on it! I'm lazy, I see it is availabe to buy, I just had no clue where. I may just buy a few lol
Thanks everyone!
You can still buy the clamp...its the tool thats not available.
BTW, to the guy with the hose clamp idea...won;t work. It IS full of pressure and will leak and make all kind of noise. The hot exhaust is aimed at the a/c evap box and will melt a hole in the wall...as me how I know. Whenever the EGR is closed the tube is full of pressure. Makes a good exhaust leak. It has to be sealed by the right clamp or brazing it closed.
That little clamp is called an Oetiker clamp (brand name). They come in a bunch of different sizes. I also have one on the A.I.R. pipe that goes into my catalytic converter.
That particular one is a 25mm. The part number is 14087580. The list price is $11.20, but you can get them for about $7 - $8 if you shop around.
I looked all over the Internet for crimpers for this guy and couldn't find any. I ended up using my cutters that look like this one:
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Cliff, that tool works great when the engine is out and you can get the right angle and force on the new clamp. I recently replaced to old clamp when the engine was out.
Previously I heated the camp and used a pair of large side cutters to pinch the clamp with good results.
I recently upgraded my rear exhaust Y pipe to a crossover pipe in an attempt to lower the drone at cruising speed (it helped). While I was at the muffler shop (I couldn't get the old Y pipe off because the connections were crimped by the exhaust pipe clamps), the guy there grabbed a tool and crimped the Oetiker clamp on my catalytic converter (I had the exhaust system off when I swapped out my trans). I don't know if he used an "official" tool or something that just happens to work. I didn't check with him to find out what tool he used.
He's only a couple of miles away and I go by there frequently. I guess I stop in there sometime and ask...
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Aug 19, 2012 at 12:13 AM.
I fought those clamps with every tool in my garage and had no luck until I bought one of these. It's a Knipex 1099 Oetiker Dual crimper, specifically made for the job. At $15 (or even $7) per clamp, the $30 I paid for the right tool was a bargain. The side jaws work perfectly on the EGR tube clamp.
Well shoot, I have a pair of oetiker clamp pliers. I bought them years ago, but I think you can still buy them.
I just looked and there is no brand name on them, but I seem to remember that they were on a K-D tools card.
They have jaws to crimp the clamp and an anvil to keep the clamp loop from balooning. The handles have square holes in them to use 1/2"
breaker bars to crimp the big clamps.
Well shoot, I have a pair of oetiker clamp pliers.
Be careful, some oetiker clamp pliers only have the face anvils (not the ones on the side). This Ideal 61001-58 Crimp Clamp Tool is less than $8 and is meant to do the same job.
The clamp on the small pipe coming out of the catalytic converter is easier to get to and either kind of pliers will work but I could only get a tight connection on the EGR pipe using the side anvils on the Knipex pliers. After all the frustration of using all my other tools and still having the annoying leak, I was actually smiling when I finished using the Knipex pliers. And trust me, I have an embarrassingly large collection of Harbor Freight tools in my garage.
Try buying American next time. Harbor freight is american slang for CHINESE
My apologies for not being politically correct. My wallet determines my shopping choices.
I worked for IBM for 30 years, including more than a decade on the PC team. IBM sold the whole PC business, along with the THINK trademark to Lenovo, a Chinese conglomerate. In addition, corporate headquarters for IBM's Purchasing division is in Beijing. I'll support the "buy American" plan when the corporations that own this nation start doing the same.
I went by the tienda de mofles today (muffler shop -- inside joke from another thread...). "Super" Mario told me he doesn't have a specific tool for Oetiker clamps. He said ask the mechanic next door. So I went over there and Jose told me he used to have that tool but somehow he doesn't have it any more and he doesn't have any idea what happened to it.
I have a Knipex 1099. I'm not sure that's the right tool for these clamps. I think it works with another type of Oetiker clamps for rubber hoses. I had some of these clamps on my 1990 Supra:
You can still buy the clamp...its the tool thats not available.
BTW, to the guy with the hose clamp idea...won;t work. It IS full of pressure and will leak and make all kind of noise. The hot exhaust is aimed at the a/c evap box and will melt a hole in the wall...as me how I know. Whenever the EGR is closed the tube is full of pressure. Makes a good exhaust leak. It has to be sealed by the right clamp or brazing it closed.
I guess I was lucky. I used the hose clamp idea and it worked with no leaks on my '86.
I fought those clamps with every tool in my garage and had no luck until I bought one of these. It's a Knipex 1099 Oetiker Dual crimper, specifically made for the job. At $15 (or even $7) per clamp, the $30 I paid for the right tool was a bargain. The side jaws work perfectly on the EGR tube clamp.
I have a 1990 with a loose clamp on the EGR pipe. You can turn mine by hand. I have cut alittle of the rubber pipe connecting to give it a slightly tighter fit but ultimately I will need this tool.
Thanks for pointing us to the right direction.
Does anyone know mechanically what happens if this clamp on the EGR pipe is loose?