I am on the hunt for answers right now, but I wanted to post this before I forgot the details. Anyways, I just drove home from work. No issues at all. Coolant and oil temp were running fine. Flogged it a few times, ran fine as usual. Then I got home, shut off the car for a short bit and then about 10 minutes later, I had to go to my local motorcycle shop. I was about 5 miles away by now and driving in over drive [D] between 12-1500 rpm (est). Under light acceleration, as to where the car does not need to down shift, the car got jumpy between 1500-2000 rpm!!! It did not want to accelerate. Now, if I hit the gas harder as to where it down shifted into 3rd, it would accelerate, but then have the same issue when it finally shifted back into 4th. Sooooo, at the next stop light, I shifted the car into drive D...not [D]. No issue on the rest of the drive there.

So on the drive home, I was paying more attention because at the stop light leaving the place, the RPMs were dropping and making the car stutter. The drive back home felt relatively good. However, the coolant temp was up around 230. I turned on the AC and it dropped between 217-225. I head the electric fan turn on at 229 too. The Oil Temp was between 240-245. The oil pressure was on the middle line when driving. When stopped, the oil pressure would drop to the first line and when the car stuttered, the pressure would drop a little lower than the first line. While driving home at a constant speed, I couldn't see the RPMs drop, but it felt like it may have been dropping a tad bit. Something felt weird, but I couldn't tell if it was in my head.

WHAT IS GOING ON!!!????? PLEASE HELP!!!

...oh yeah. I had some steaming near the firewall when I got home too. I thought I solved that issue when I replaced the loose radiator cap from the reservoir up near the fire wall on the passenger side. I haven't seen the car steam in several weeks Lasted maybe 5 minutes.

 

Quick note: The car has 39400 miles on it. I bought the car at 34900. Transmission oil and filter were replaced at 35,900. It should be good, but I do need to check the level.

Also, it is an Automatic. 1994. I believe it is the electronic shifting version of the 700r4...the 4L60e if I am not mistaken.

 

I'm not up on late C4's but I would look at hoses connections, freeze plugs, maybe a stuck thermostat, pull tension off the belt and spin the water pump impeller.

 

I assume this response is related to the temps and not the 3rd into 4th gear issue?

 

............. Check Tranny fluid level ? ......... It sounds like you're in the magic zone of converter clutch lock-up / unlock ... sometimes you just have to encourage the PCM to unlock and go .......... apply pressure with your right foot until it co-operates ..........

 

This has never happened before...by cooperating, are you saying that it will "fix itself"??? And just double checking, to check the fluid, you should warm up the car and check the fluid while it is running, yes?

 

I think you have an engine problem, not a trans problem.
Sounds like an opti problem, or maybe cracked opti cap, or something on the order of a mis fire, clogged fuel filter, etc......
I would check codes and then check spark plug wires, etc.
To me, it sounds like that you are losing power, and the ECM is shifting the trans to make up for it.

 

Oh great! (Sarcasm). I have not got the opti wet, but I'll try and look into that. I am trying to find a reputable local mechanic right now too. If it is a clogged fuel filter, could I try using something like seafoam to clean it out?

Well, I am off to the garage to take a look at those things. Thanks.

 

I am about to go check the codes and I found this...(see below)...there is no "check eng" or "sys" light on while the car is running. I'm still going to go look in the history...but...

The "Check Engine/System" light on with engine running means the condition(s) are currently present. If the light is not on during RUN operation, the limits were exceeded at some point in time and the event was recorded in memory, but the reading has since returned to the normal operating range.

 

I pulled the codes...and it didn't look like anything I read. I grounded the 4 and 12 pins together, turned the car to "ON" and got this


It read
C12
- - -
1
- - -
4
- - -
9
- - -
A.
- - -
1.0

and then it would just stay on "1.0"

What do these mean? No check engine lights are on.

 

This may answer your question about codes.

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/

Mac

 

Best article on codes I have seen. Turns out I have a lot more to do to read all the categories!!! Thanks!