...WW
Ignition Coil Grounding Strap
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
i'm looking at a wiring diagram for an 88 (ignition, electronic spark control) and it shows, what would be the red and white wire connected to opposite ends of the primary side of the coil. the secondary side of the coil - one side needs to be grounded. i still stand by by post, you need a ground strap, or ground wire that connect to the harness. otherwise, the secondary is just connected to the distributor cap, and (electrically) floating. i'm also looking at the instruction sheet for an accel distributor cap/ignition coil replacement - it shows a black, white, and red lead PLUS a metal strap or an additional ground wire.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 17
From: Hamilton Ontario
I just found my F$%@in old ground strap....still attached to my old cap in the garage
I'll drop it into the shop tomorrow and he can install it with my new cap and coil....live and learn
Thanks to everyone....again !
Last edited by raiderz; Aug 27, 2012 at 10:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 17
From: Hamilton Ontario
the fact the ground strap was missing apparently caused severe "sparking" under the cap when the tech fired it up in the shop...never did this before.
The shop replaced the cap, rotor, ignition coil..and installed a new ground strap.
Now the car is experiencing a cold start...long crank time before it fires up...6+ secs.
Before the sparks flew it fired within 2secs cold.
It starts good when warmed up..always did even before the spark show.
Any idea what could have been fried when the short happened under the cap causing the new symptom longer crank time.
The mechanic gave me back the car after he could not figure out what happened.
Would like to know what to test and look for
Thanks
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 17
From: Hamilton Ontario
UPDATE:
the fact the ground strap was missing apparently caused severe "sparking" under the cap when the tech fired it up in the shop...never did this before.
The shop replaced the cap, rotor, ignition coil..and installed a new ground strap.
Now the car is experiencing a cold start...long crank time before it fires up...6+ secs.
Before the sparks flew it fired within 2secs cold.
It starts good when warmed up..always did even before the spark show.
Any idea what could have been fried when the short happened under the cap causing the new symptom longer crank time.
The mechanic gave me back the car after he could not figure out what happened.
Would like to know what to test and look for
Thanks
the fact the ground strap was missing apparently caused severe "sparking" under the cap when the tech fired it up in the shop...never did this before.
The shop replaced the cap, rotor, ignition coil..and installed a new ground strap.
Now the car is experiencing a cold start...long crank time before it fires up...6+ secs.
Before the sparks flew it fired within 2secs cold.
It starts good when warmed up..always did even before the spark show.
Any idea what could have been fried when the short happened under the cap causing the new symptom longer crank time.
The mechanic gave me back the car after he could not figure out what happened.
Would like to know what to test and look for
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
WAG...may not be related. "cold" means it has sat for a while, fuel pressure leaks off. listen for the 2 sec prime when key is turned on without starting. FP relay may not be working, so it runs off oil pressure switch, may be slower to reach min pressure when cold.
it's a stretch, but may not be ignition issue, unless they adjusted timing.
it's a stretch, but may not be ignition issue, unless they adjusted timing.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 17
From: Hamilton Ontario
WAG...may not be related. "cold" means it has sat for a while, fuel pressure leaks off. listen for the 2 sec prime when key is turned on without starting. FP relay may not be working, so it runs off oil pressure switch, may be slower to reach min pressure when cold.
it's a stretch, but may not be ignition issue, unless they adjusted timing.
it's a stretch, but may not be ignition issue, unless they adjusted timing.
Fuel pressure pumps up to 43 with key on....yes, i can hear the pump priming so the relay is doing its job.
Never thought about timing...i will check it although i cant see why the shop would mess with the timing?
What about the ICM? could it have been fried during all the arcing?
how can i test that the ICM is still good?
Ray
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 17
From: Hamilton Ontario
I know i have developed a fuel pressure leakdown problem too
Its posted in another thread "fuel pressure test"