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I'm looking to upgrade the front half of my '86's exhaust. Its currently stock up front with a crossover rear Y-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbos. I plan on running a test pipe in place of the main cat. I can either go with Hedman Elites or a 2.5" catless front Y-pipe. Both will yield gains, but will the Hedmans add THAT much more to be worth the extra cost/hassle? Can I cut up my stock y-pipe to mate to the Hedmans? I realize some fiddling with the alt. bracket and a brake booster heat sheild will be in order for the Hedmans. Will my stock starter fit without being cooked? Thanks.
I'm looking to upgrade the front half of my '86's exhaust. Its currently stock up front with a crossover rear Y-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbos. I plan on running a test pipe in place of the main cat. I can either go with Hedman Elites or a 2.5" catless front Y-pipe. Both will yield gains, but will the Hedmans add THAT much more to be worth the extra cost/hassle? Can I cut up my stock y-pipe to mate to the Hedmans? I realize some fiddling with the alt. bracket and a brake booster heat sheild will be in order for the Hedmans. Will my stock starter fit without being cooked? Thanks.
There is no comparison. I went from a TPIs catless Y to Elites and it was a big difference.
Read this
I bought the cheap ones for like $125 from summit just for the power improvement and I can say the fitment for me was not great to get them in on the passenger side and the holes on the flanges should be drilled prior to installation because there was not enough wiggle room to fit the bolts right . I also bought allen header bolts right awaway for like $7.
Never heard anything bad about elites on here good price for a devent header, BUT.
I would and will eventually buy OBX stainless headers for the C4 Because they cost about the same as the coated elites, and Stainless is king to me.
I bought the cheap hedman's for my '87 as well. I also bought the allen head header bolts to install them with. I didn't have to modify any brackets or holes to get them to work. I did have to heat shield the crap out of everything because it's pretty tight. I've never had any other kind of header to compare them to but i didn't think they were that hard to get into place. One went in easy from the top and one went in easy from the bottom.
After having an issue with an experimental header gasket I used the small header bolts that came with the headers and it was 5 times easier to get those on and tight than with the allen head bolts. especially right by the firewall on the back one.
Looks like longtubes are the way to go. Will they work ok with the stock starter? I know a mini-starter would be preferable but I don't have the funds. I would run a heat blanket to protect the stock one however.
Looks like longtubes are the way to go. Will they work ok with the stock starter? I know a mini-starter would be preferable but I don't have the funds. I would run a heat blanket to protect the stock one however.
Your stock starter should work..did you read the thread I posted.
Yes, I did read it. It said you removed the starter to put the headers on, so I guess I should have assumed it went back in ok. My bad. Your post was the clincher since you went from a catless y-pipe to longtubes and could note the difference. Thanks.
Yes, I did read it. It said you removed the starter to put the headers on, so I guess I should have assumed it went back in ok. My bad. Your post was the clincher since you went from a catless y-pipe to longtubes and could note the difference. Thanks.
Also, don't forget what polo said they were not around when I chose my headers. You asked a specific question which I answerer. There are other alternatives but then we open up a what header is best argument.
True. Those cheap Hedmans are very tempting. From the searching I've done, it seems the tubing is thinner gauge and the flanges are thinner as well. Plus, I'm hoping the coated Elites will keep the temps down a little bit more. I like to put headers in once, properly, and forget about them. Cheaper ones can become a bit of a maintaince item.
Yes, I did read it. It said you removed the starter to put the headers on, so I guess I should have assumed it went back in ok. My bad. Your post was the clincher since you went from a catless y-pipe to longtubes and could note the difference. Thanks.
The old-style starter will clear the Hedmans, but for the initial header install, the starter has to be removed after the stock exhaust manifold is out, then right side header must be fitted in place, then the starter is re-installed, and finally the header is bolted in.
I think that the 88 and later L98 mini-stylel starters will work as a bolt-in substitute which allows for their removal without unbolting the header. It maybe that the battery cable has to be a longer one and the other wires may need to be extended. And there are aftermarket mini-starters available that are "clockable" so the body can be turned to fit.
If you retain the OEM starter, get a heat shield for it. Summit Racing has wrap-around shields that will work. Probably would be a good idea to get a heat shield regardless of the starter type.
I installed the cheap hedmans eight years ago with no problems. I choose them because funds were tight. I used a heat shield on the original starter. Two years ago I pulled them off and had them ceramic coated by a local company. They made them look like new and I'm still happy with them.
True. Those cheap Hedmans are very tempting. From the searching I've done, it seems the tubing is thinner gauge and the flanges are thinner as well. Plus, I'm hoping the coated Elites will keep the temps down a little bit more. I like to put headers in once, properly, and forget about them. Cheaper ones can become a bit of a maintaince item.
The Elites are better made that the cheap Headmans. For the price they are very good quality.