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Ok I've recruited some help to pull my intake to seal the oil leaks that are pouring out the front and rear gaskets and to pull the opti and decide what to do about it.
I've read a lot but I'm coming to you experts for and tips and advice.
Which distributor shoud I be looking at for dependability and price?
Last edited by bassackwards; Sep 24, 2012 at 06:49 PM.
Ok I've recruited some help to pull my intake to seal the oil leaks that are pouring out the front and rear gaskets and to pull the opti and decide what to do about it.
I've read a lot but I'm coming to you experts for and tips and advice.
Which distributor shoud I be looking at for dependability and price?
Do search on here for opti. This is a well discussed topic. The Ac/Delco is good, there are mixed reviews on the MSD.
I believe that you can find a conversion to the opti II, which is the vented opti. I would highly recommend this.
IMO AC/Delco isn't the gold standard that it once was. If possible I'd try to find a Delphi unit. (Delphi was the OEM and was what was in the Delco box once upon a time.)
Regardless which unit you buy, I would recommend pulling it apart and checking the rotor screws to be sure there is thread locker on them.
If the car runs now then I would also recommend that you start the R&R by backing out the crank pulley's three bolts a couple of full turns and running the car at idle for a bit with the belt still in place. This is to help break the pulley to rust to crank bond.
Read up on "the right stuff". I like it for the china wall seal. Some complain that it make future removal of the intake too much of a chore. Your call.
There is a guy in Alabama that sells a distributor with the conversion as a kit. I found him through the forums here but I can't remember his name, sorry. What I can say is that it is a quality piece and it works great with no issues. If I get time I'll try to find his info for you.
That's him. I researched about a month and decided on his unit. He called me directly when I had a question and answered it fully. The cap he uses looks like an MSD unit. The instructions are detailed. I don't think you'll be disappointed if you choose his...just my opinion.
Update! I cleaned it up really good last night and we decided to wait on the intake because it looks like a huge job.
We tackled the opti first. After digging down and getting it off we decide to take a good look at it. When I flipped it over about 2 ounces of water poured out. Sure this was from the washing but it was full. After we got it emptied I see that all 3 drain holes on the bottom are clogged up.
It RAN!?!?! Dang, two thumbs up for the Opti-Spark, if it ran that wet. That Opti-Spark is a dang good unit, I'd love to see another distributor run that wet.
The liquid was from powerwashing the engine last night. The cap was warped and 2 oz of water poured oit of it. You can see the blackened stained seal that no longer sealed. I bet the oil and corrosion were already there
My car has 103k on it but the opti was replaced in the recall but I don't know when. It was wide open at the top from the cap warping, that's how so much water got in while washing it.
From: Chicago Executive Airport, formerly known as Palwaukee
No-IL Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
When I purchased my new 1992 Vette, the Opti was replaced with less than 1,000 miles under a recall. I believe the original Optis did not have any vent holes at the bottom.
I drove the '92 for 2 1/2 years and 51,000 miles. Never had any warranty issues with the vehicle.
Update! I cleaned it up really good last night and we decided to wait on the intake because it looks like a huge job.
We tackled the opti first. After digging down and getting it off we decide to take a good look at it. When I flipped it over about 2 ounces of water poured out. Sure this was from the washing but it was full. After we got it emptied I see that all 3 drain holes on the bottom are clogged up.
Time to put the new one on.
Takes 90 minutes total for an experienced mechanic to do the intake. For a newb it shouldn't take more than 3 hours. The intake is dry on the LT1/4 and the fuel rail lifts right off with the injectors still attached. Plenty of write-ups about how to do this.
It makes ZERO sense to fix an opti and then have a leaking intake spew oil on the new one
Do the injectors even need to come out? Can we just unhook the fuel lines and leave them in the intake?
Why would do that? For the sport and challenge of having raw fuel run out of the fuel rail all over everything? You remove the 4 bolts that secure the fuel rail/injector assembly to the intake and then lift the entire thing free of the intake and flip it over to rest on the windshield (on a towel so it doesn't scratch the glass).
If you look very very close, you can see the fuel rail/injectors laying on the windshield with the fuel lines still attached...
Btw....buy a Factory Service Manual if you don't have one. It'll be the best $100 you've spent if you intend to do your own repairs.
From: Chicago Executive Airport, formerly known as Palwaukee
No-IL Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
I agree!
Just be sure to not cycle the key. Fuel will be all over the place.
Better yet, disconnect your battery.
After installing the intake & torquing all the intake manifold bolts to specs., I would let the intake set for several hours. Overnight, if at all possible.
This enables the sealer (installed on the front & the rear) to dry & cure properly. Dealer technicians seldom have this luxury. This has accounted for countless intakes leaking.