Very true if for some reason the OP would try to start the car before reinstalling all the parts

 

With the distributor I hauled the car on a trailer to the carwash then to my buddy's shop and then back home. I'll do the same with the intake.

 

I was thinking if the OP decided to play some tunes or put his power windows up and/or down.......

When I owned my shop, I would always power down the driver's window when pulling a vehicle into a bay. Prevented me from locking keys inside.

Key ON would energize his fuel pump.

 

If I get it done tonight I will lower the windows before starting and will not stop working until the rail is reinstalled. I won't be driving it tonight, Petris put my distributor in the mail this morning.

The injectors wouldn't squirt anyway would they?

 

Only if they were leaking.

 

Can you post pics of the Petris unit before you install?

The fellas who have never seen one, need to see this.

Thanks!

 

Yes I can take some pics before installing it.

Do I need to unplug the wiring harness from the injectors before pulling the rail off or should I leave it all together?

Any tips for removing EGR or anything else?

 

Leave the two (2) fuel lines connected. Look at Jim's picture to see how the rail should rest on the windshield (with a towel underneath!).

This would be a good time to remove the EGR valve & make sure the holes are open & clear.

When you start removing vacuum hoses, mark those with masking tape & their position so as to be able to reinstall them to the correct port.

The more you mark/list when you disassemble, the faster you can reattach the individual items.

 

This turned out to be a piece of cake! At least so far. After removing the fuel rails I just twisted the lines around and sat the whole assy onto the passenger tire. It seemed even easier than going up to the windshield. I loosened the egr and removed the lines and hoses in sections. The wiring harness laid out nicely as well.

We hardly disconnected anything from the driver's side. I unhooked the injector plugs and a few vacuum lines and this side of the harness just pulled back far enough to allow easy access. We didn't even mess with the alternator connections.

I tugged on the intake a little and it pulled right off! Too easy. On closer inspection, the front and rear intake areas had 0% silicone. I mean nothing stuck on the intake at all. A squirt of brake cleaner and a wipe with a paper towel made the sealing surfaces shiney. The silicone was stuck pretty well to the block but it was like they sprayed WD-40 on the intake before installing it the last time. No wonder it leaked!

I thoroughly cleaned the block area then cleaned it again. I cleaned up a little sludge from the lifter area but it wasn't too bad inside.

I positioned the new intake gaskets and applied a thin skin on the heads under the front and rear ends of the gaskets. I laid out a 1/4" bead on the front web and about a 3/8 bead on the rear then ran to the intake. I smeared about a 1/16 thick bead on the entire front and rear sealing area of the intake. We brought the intake out and it went right into position. I never loosened the EGR assy other than unbolting it from the rear of the intake and it worked as a guide to slide right into position. The front sat straight down. We snugged all the bolts according to sequence but did not get them too tight.

We then sat down and finished our beers. Total worktime was right at 3 hrs with a few beer breaks and some BSing.

 

This is my Petris...



can't see the vent but its a real GM vent, not some garbage cobbled together..had a bit of a time routing it up through the area to get to the intake without pinching it, tight fit but it worked..

found this: