running hot
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
check the water pump inlet hose for a wire "spring" inside by squeezing it. The spring keeps the hose from collapsing and restricting the pump flow while driving with higher RPM.
If someone has replaced your inlet hose with one without it, you are going to run hot.
If someone has replaced your inlet hose with one without it, you are going to run hot.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
i'm just gonna jump in here with a related question. I have a 95 A/T that was getting hella hot, so, new everything, rad, hoses,180* stat, W/P. put it on the road today and no difference in operating temp, 205/220 at 70 MPH in 98* ambient air temp, 20% humidity. so i start thinking,,,, if my engine temp is that much hotter than my T-Stat, does the stat ever even close? if not it's like running no stat at all, water just circulates non-stop. I turn the A/C on and the lowest temp I get is 200. The faster I go, the hotter the temp gets. ?????
I've been running 190°/195° @ 70 W/95°/110° Ambients. So yes you are running a tad warm.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Gig Harbor WA
It might ease your mind a bit to realize the temperature gauge measure the coolant temp at a hot spot in the head (somebody correct me if I'm wrong).
The temperature in other parts of the cooling system and engine will be less. I removed my radiator cap when the engine was cold, then started it and ran it up until I saw the flow from the thermostat opening.
I placed an accurate lab thermometer in the coolant and it was about 170-180°. Give it a try.
The temperature in other parts of the cooling system and engine will be less. I removed my radiator cap when the engine was cold, then started it and ran it up until I saw the flow from the thermostat opening.
I placed an accurate lab thermometer in the coolant and it was about 170-180°. Give it a try.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Hi barryb3@q.com,
some info derived from my 94 LT1 with 100k and new radiator/thermostat.
Digital Dash Coolant gauge reads 194-197 as low temp with the 180 degree F thermostat (recommend only ACDelco 131-100 -- see my recent post in general info section).
Analog dash temp gauge should read 180-185 (right at thicker hash mark) when digital is at 194.
Digital gauge sender is in water pump, analog is in one of the heads. So difference and steady difference throughout temp range is valuable to observe, as big difference between could imply a water pump or thermostat problem.
Fans are controlled by ECM based on either the digital coolant temp gauge or the AC high-side pressure.
If you have the FSM, book 2, section c12 (albeit there are some errors therein).
Generally, primary fan (Driver side) will come on at coolant temp of 228, and secondary fan (passenger side) will come on if coolant temp continues upward to 235.
Alternatively, if the AC pressure is correct, upon turn-on (technically a/c pressure above 189), primary fan should come on (and generally stay on as long as AC is on -- hence why many drive or turn on AC especially in traffic or at a light).
If AC pressure exceeds 225 (typically of 90 plus day or dirty condenser), secondary fan will come on too.
Having just replaced the radiator ($115 via ebay, oem delphi 1138), was surprised the inside didn't seem clogged, but the fins where really clogged and a garden hose did not budge the stuff (was all between fins, as had kept clean with toothbrush and vacume between condenser and radiator via access area on passenger side).
Radiator replacement net change was a reduction of 7-10 degrees at a light, but real big difference was after the light, now temp returns to 194-197 in about 1 mile, versus 5+ miles before.
some info derived from my 94 LT1 with 100k and new radiator/thermostat.
Digital Dash Coolant gauge reads 194-197 as low temp with the 180 degree F thermostat (recommend only ACDelco 131-100 -- see my recent post in general info section).
Analog dash temp gauge should read 180-185 (right at thicker hash mark) when digital is at 194.
Digital gauge sender is in water pump, analog is in one of the heads. So difference and steady difference throughout temp range is valuable to observe, as big difference between could imply a water pump or thermostat problem.
Fans are controlled by ECM based on either the digital coolant temp gauge or the AC high-side pressure.
If you have the FSM, book 2, section c12 (albeit there are some errors therein).
Generally, primary fan (Driver side) will come on at coolant temp of 228, and secondary fan (passenger side) will come on if coolant temp continues upward to 235.
Alternatively, if the AC pressure is correct, upon turn-on (technically a/c pressure above 189), primary fan should come on (and generally stay on as long as AC is on -- hence why many drive or turn on AC especially in traffic or at a light).
If AC pressure exceeds 225 (typically of 90 plus day or dirty condenser), secondary fan will come on too.
Having just replaced the radiator ($115 via ebay, oem delphi 1138), was surprised the inside didn't seem clogged, but the fins where really clogged and a garden hose did not budge the stuff (was all between fins, as had kept clean with toothbrush and vacume between condenser and radiator via access area on passenger side).
Radiator replacement net change was a reduction of 7-10 degrees at a light, but real big difference was after the light, now temp returns to 194-197 in about 1 mile, versus 5+ miles before.
