Have a look at the date Z52 posted about Walmart

 

I swapped for an aftermarket radio when my Bose started to go belly-up. Here's a few things I learned:

You CAN use the factory wires, but you have to cut them before they reach the amps and wire them directly to the speakers. You won't get any sound if the speaker wires go through the amp first. I tried using the factory speakers, and while they are adequate honestly I recommend running a set of 6x9s in the rear as there's no substitute for size in a speaker.

I got my setup from Crutchfield, they know their stuff. However, they sent me a wiring harness that includes an inline amp. Don't use that, just wire it up directly, matching colors to the back of your aftermarket system. The plug will go directly into the factory plug (no wire cutting!). Just have to make sure you wire your speakers DIRECTLY to the head unit and bypass the factory amps, as mentioned above.

Personally, I recommend a rear usb input. I got a usb extension cable and ran it under the dash and out into the center console compartment. That way, I can tuck my cell phone in there and plug it in to listen to Pandora or whatever else I want, without having it sliding around someplace and with invisible wiring. This is obviously personal preference more than anything.

 

You also CAN sleep with your sister. Just because you CAN doesn't mean it is a good idea, ex-President Obama.

I really wouldn't. I just love using 30 year old wire when I can use brand new wire and not go through all that hassle and also wonder if the insulation is cracked, etc. Run fresh wire and be done with it. In my case, I got the non-Bose speaker enclosures so I don't have to mod anything else. Just whatever would fit in a non-Bose system

 

I mean...I guess if you've got that kind of time. Me personally, I don't see the need to run new wires when the old ones work perfectly fine. Wire is wire and unless it's badly corroded new wire won't help you at all.

If you DO run new wire, tape it up really well to the old wire on one end and pull the old wire out, and the new wire will now be in the right place with less effort.

 

Was easier to have Best Buy guys strain themselves to lay down the wire. I do the fine connections. I'd rather not do it myself, at least not the back breaking part. Don't you have to go through the amp?

 

Nope. Just need a + and - wire directly from stereo to speaker.

 

4 sets of wires, I would think. You would have to snake it under the carpet for the rears and in my case, to the sill area for the front.

 

I had door and rear speakers. I've rewired those and they are a pain in the butt to do (original wires missing). If you're paying someone it's fine but then again that's money that could be spent elsewhere.

I'm looking to do sound proofing this year sometime. I work in the Auto industry so I'm hoping to get some of the good material cheaply. I'm betting that does more for the sound than anything else.

 

This will make the purists squirm, but in the end I just left the old amplifier and wires alone and ran new wires back the original speaker holes (no big deal) and installed my new Pioneer stereo where the old head unit was, put a good set of "kickers" in the old speaker holes, and it sounds great and does everything I need it to do. I don't play cassettes, anyway. I spent $100 bucks on all of it and it sounds just fine in that small passenger compartment. I will put in the front speakers this summer, those wires will be even easier to route. I pulled the antenna out to look at it (mast was gone when I got car) and, of course, the nylon cable was broken off in it. So for now I bought an aluminum rod, polished it, shaped the top to look like an antenna, painted the tip black, and stuck it in the hole so it sticks up about 18" and it looks like the antenna is stuck in the up position. Can't tell it's not real, and it works just fine. Maybe this summer I will mess with the antenna relay and figure out which wire connects to the radio to make it work and try replacing the mast (if I get real bored).
This is my daily driver in the summer here in MI, I bought it to enjoy, not to polish and stare at (had enough of those).

 

Sounds great man. Glad you're happy with it.

I agree with driving the car. No offense to the collectors out there but I bought mine too be driven. I still keep it in good shape and don't drive it on dark stormy nights etc. But I drive it the 15 miles or so to work and back most days.

I also recommend adding heated seats if you have leather. It's not hard or expensive and it's a nice quality of life mod-especially in MI I'm thinking it would be handy.

 

Heated seats?? Interesting, where did you get the parts? Mine spends winter in the garage and out of the salt, easier to work on without rusted bolts. This is my 5th C4 and I can say I really don't miss the Bose. Other 4 had it. As far as daily drivers, '88 and '90 I had were a bit harsh on these roads for daily use, but the '94, '96, and this '91 are comfortable on a daily basis.

 

WATERCARBON X18203 Universal Seat Heater Kit Car warmer
Those are them on Amazon. $40/seat. They have hi/lo settings and the hi gets HOT. Definitely not wimpy. First seat took a couple hours second one should be done with less than two hours start to finish. I live in Tennessee where nights and mornings get a little chilly and these are perfect for keeping warm even with the top down in 50s weather. I've been impressed.

 

You'r right that I could do it myself and save the money. At the time, it was more worthwhile to do the stuff I preferred to do that I might ensure success and farm out the grunt work.

 

Interesting, thanks for the tip. Yea, it gets a little cool up here, too. I wait until the 1st snowfall, then inside for the winter. Usually mid to late November, gets into 30s and 40s