Thanks for the install info. Before I get to it, I suppose I should ask my diagnosis question (that way I can return the pump if necessary).

Test drove the Corvette about 3 weeks ago, ran great, no issues, started right up and drove real nice.

It sat for about a week, took it out and it was very hesitant when under throttle (normal and hard).

Went to start it up yesterday and nothing. It just cranks and cranks and cranks. Doesn't really even get close to firing it up. The guy I bought it from said it had the Code 32 on it, though since I have owned it the SES light has not come on.

Any suggestions? Starting points? Thanks.

 

You may wish to turn the key to run from off three times before starting but if you don't it will just be a little longer than normal crank.

Be safe and smart with that much gas open to the air while you are changing pumps.

 

turn the key on and off a couple times to push fuel thru the system.Its electric...it knows to pump fuel when power is there and not when the power goes away. The air gets bled out as the engine rotates and injectors cycle. Takes about 1.5 seconds...

just be damn sure you don't have any leaks at the hoses that clamp onto the pump/sender assy nipples...

your hoses will tear when removing them...just trim off the damaged part and use whats left to fit on the nipples. Use NEW clamps...this is not something you want to do half-assed. A new tank gasket is advised...and a new screen on the pump. aka the sock.

Be careful as you manipulate the assy out of the tank opening...its larger than the tank hole..you have to turn it, rotate it, and lift. You do NOT want to hang the float lever and bend that...your gauge will be off if the float arm is bent. Avoid that by being gentle with removal and insertion. Look at how the sock is oriented on the pump...it has to fit the windage tray in the bottom of the tank. If its still glued to the bottom....if the tray is loose and floating around..just take it out.

when you have the assy out and the tank is open...look in there and see if there is any trash in the tank bottom. IF there IS...hopefully you ran it down to 1/4 or less...and you can siphon the rest out and use the hose as a vacuum cleaner to suck out the trash...if any is present. Wipe out the rest with clean rags and LOTS of ventilation....gas fumes are heavy and will collect all around your work area. No power tools...sparks or dumb *** neighbors that walk up lighting a smoke....

 

Thanks for the fuel pump install information. I edited my post with a new set of questions.

 

You're missing either spark or fuel. Check for spark with a spark test tool or shade tree method. Check for fuel with a fuel pressure gauge and noid light. You can also check for missing fuel with a generous dose of starter spray in the intake.

You may be able to borrow the FP gauge and spark test tools are cheap ~$5.

 

I was doing some additional late night/early morning research and I came across something new to me called VATS. Could this have something to do with a non-start issue?

I am going to check for fuel tomorrow. Is there any other way to do it without a fuel pressure gauge since I don't have one?

If the fuel pump is running, is it easy to hear after I turn the key, does it stay running after I turn the key or only run for a short period of time?

Also, in regards to the sending unit, how can one tell if that is bad? Will the pump still run if the sending unit is no good?

Thank you for the help so far.

 

If you don't hear the pump, test the fuel pump fuse in main fuse panel.
If it's good, see if 12v gets there, when ignition is turned to RUN.
Post your results.

The factory service manual has pages and pages of diagnostic testing and info. Lots of good reading.

 

If you put 12V to terminal G of the ALDL plug under the dash the pump should run full time

 

*Quick Update*

Turned the key, heard the fuel pump run for 2 seconds.

I also pressed down the valve on the fuel rail and fuel came up and out. It didn't spray out or anything, more or less "poured" up and out of the valve.

 

Did the prior owner, or you, "power wash" the motor? Is it a LT1?

To answer your earlier question re VATS, it wouldn't crank if it was VATS.

 

DING DING DING ! !

WE HAVE A WINNER !

If you were ANYWHERE close to the 40 psi thats required to build a fire in that beast the fuel would squirt up 5 ft from that schrader valve. I've been sprayed in the face many times.,.

So...whats this mean now?

1. pump is shot
2. pump screen/strainer is totally plugged and starving the pump.
3. fuel inline filter is junk...full of crud. Familiar with the inline filter? critical part of thise deal...

Go buy a pump, strainer and new filter. What you do not use you can return. However, if it were ME, I'd use all that **** and be done with it..

 

You should have way more pressure.

 

Do yourself a favor and get as fuel pressure test gauge before you go out and buy parts you may or may not need.
With a gauge you can perform the required pressure leakdown tests to see exactly what you are up against as far as lack of pressure goes.

 

Alright, I replaced the fuel pump/strainer and still have barely any fuel pressure. I have not replaced the fuel filter yet. I also bought a fuel pressure tester and unfortunately it did not come with the correct fitting so I need to find one of those.

What side/location is the fuel filter on? I'll be doing that soon.

 

Passenger side along the frame behind the front wheel....relieve fuel pressure before you undo it...use 2 wrenches so you don't twist the lines

 

Thanks so far for the help.

If the fuel filter doesn't fix my issue, what else could I be looking at?

 

*Update*

I replaced the fuel filter today. As I feared, still no start. It will crank strong but never fires up. I pressed down the Shrader Valve again, and still has crappy fuel pressure.

Any other suggestions/advice will be appreciated. I still need to get a fitting for my fuel pressure gauge.

 

Is the fuel pump supposed to come on for 2 seconds every time you turn the key?

If that's the case, mine does not. It probably turns on every 4-5 times I turn the key.

Also, the times it does not turn on, I can hear a clicking sounds, probably 3-4 clicks coming from somewhere in the vehicle. Not able to pinpoint it.

 

not an expert but the clicking is most likely the relay upfront. the fuel pump should turn on for 2 seconds. have you checked for power at the pump? how about the fp fuse? these links might help.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...cs-inside.html
good luck

 

There is a timer, so it will not turn on every time you turn the key, unless you wait for the timer to time out. Don't recall how many seconds, though.

You really need the gauge to diagnose. Could be a faulty fuel regulator, but unless there is fuel in the regulator's vacuum line, you will need the gauge to diagnose.

The service manual describes how to pinch the supply and return line to diagnose.
Here is the section from my 86 FSM.

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf