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Where are you going through the firewall at? Im wanting to put one in for this weekend and was wondering where the easiest place to pass through the firewall is and where you mounted the switch.
I mounted mine in my center console. Hidden and very easy to turn on and off.
I ran the wires through the fire wall under the driver side dash. (Below steering wheel) There is a few wire bundles that run through the fire wall and I just fed the wires through there. Nothing too dificult and everything is hidden pretty good.
I received the kit I ordered from Mid America yesterday. In reading through the instructions, they suggested to go through the grommet that the cruise control goes through to get to the engine bay.
I did mine about a week ago. There's a grommet behind the battery that comes into the car at the top left corner under the drivers kick panel. Make sure you use at least the same guage wire as the circuit, fuse it, and get a heavy duty switch, like 20A. I mounted mine on the kick panel right behind the thing that you plug into to get the codes. I forget the name of it, but its on the right hand side towards the front. This way there's no chance of hitting it by accident, and you can't see it. I think I had to use a 30A fuse. The 20's keps blowing, and I burnt out the first toggle switch. Works gerat now. All this came after I drove 3 hrs in traffic to get to the track. Car was hot (225) all night. Should have been 160 - 180. Wish I had the switch then. Route the wires in existing loom for cleaner look and solder the connections if possible.
Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
Jim and Triple Black routed theirs the same way I did. That is the cruise control grommet. I mounted my switch on the top left corner of the carpeted under dash panel, right below the fog lamp switch. That way I can reach it from outside the car.
Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
Make sure you use at least the same guage wire as the circuit, fuse it, and get a heavy duty switch, like 20A. I mounted mine on the kick panel right behind the thing that you plug into to get the codes. I forget the name of it, but its on the right hand side towards the front. This way there's no chance of hitting it by accident, and you can't see it. I think I had to use a 30A fuse. The 20's keps blowing, and I burnt out the first toggle switch. Works gerat now. All this came after I drove 3 hrs in traffic to get to the track. Car was hot (225) all night. Should have been 160 - 180. Wish I had the switch then. Route the wires in existing loom for cleaner look and solder the connections if possible.
Good Luck!
Are you using the toggle switch to close the relay solonid or are you running the fan power wiring through it? I would have thought you would switch the relay on and the amp draw would be minimal on the switch. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!!
Pete and Red, let me clarify some things. I am running the fan power thru the toggle switch...on purpose. Like Pete said, you can wire it up to close the relay selenoid, use any switch and it will work fine. But my brother had a fan relay crap out on him in the middle of no where one time, overheated and was stranded. By running the power thru the switch, it also serves as a backup incase the relay gives out, you can still control the fan. BTW, I picked up the switch and wire from Sears Hardware so you don't need to order (and wait) for a kit.
I'm not 100% sure about this, but wiring to the relay may only let you turn the fan on and off with the key on (Dash lit up). Pete could clarify that. My way works with the car off. Ideal for the track. If hot, "Just set it...and forget it" check out a few races come back and all cooled off. Let me know if you have any questions. Also keep us posted when you get it hooked up.
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Re: manual fan switch installation. (Red 86 4+3)
I drilled a hole to the right of the brake booster, Then I was able to run the wire inside the car. I had to drop the lower panel under the drivers side of the dash board. everybody has a different location to mount there switch. I placed mine on the cover that had to be removed to get the wires from the fire wall. It can not be seen when the door is open. It is out of the way and no way off turning it on by accident. It is not hard for me to reach to turn it on.
Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
Behind the battery there is an existing ground. You'll need an extention to get to it, but its not to bad.
That sounds more logical than the MAD instructions, which say to drill a hole behind the carpet on the left kickpanel and attach the wire's right terminal to the uniframe.
I made a mistake. The area behind the battery is NOT the ground, its the (constant) hot wire. That goes to the one side of the switch (fused), and the wire from the other side of the switch goes to fan's hot wire, after the relay.
PeteL, what did you mean when you said that this setup was "dangerous"?
Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
The switch has to be pretty heavy duty to hold the amperage for one. Also, If you fan locks up or the wire shorts on the outgoing leg of the switch it will burn all the way back to the battery. This means you could catch the car on fire in the dash. You will have to fuse this thing with either a maxi fuse or a circuit breaker as close to the power source as possible. Be very carefull not to let it rub a ground ANYWHERE--insulate and route it well. Then it will be ok.
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Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
Grounding the fan relay is not dangerous. This is all anybody should do.
Switching the main +12V feed to the fan with a manual switch run in the cabin is dangerous and unnecessary. This is especially true with an electric motor (fan motor). In rush current is very high at turn on, and a voltage spike will occur at turn off. The switch will wear and eventually be high resistance and could burn up even with normal fan current, and without blowing the fuse. This setup is doomed to failure. You need to avoid high current lines as much as possible, that is why relays are used. Fan relay failure is rare, and usually only when the fan is failing. You could always carry a spare relay. High current switch should be rated at 1.5 X inrush current which I would guess a 50A switch might be good enough for a while. But I would just use a cheap switch to ground the relay and avoid any problems.
Re: manual fan switch installation. (Triple Black 88)
Triple black 88, You are correct about grounding the solonid only works with the ignition switch on. But on your switch you ran, was it a double pole switch? The reason I ask is, I believe, if you run constant power to the toggle switch, you still will need a ground at the motor. Now it you perm. ground the fan motor, then it will run costantly when the car is running. I was thinking about using a double pole relay, and a switch that lights up (so I wont forget to turn it off) since I believe I will need both power and ground to run the fan with the engine off.
Red 86, I did use a double pole switch, but it doesn't light up(No Ground). It sounds like I hooked up my switch for a different reason. I will pretty much only use the manual fan switch at the track, between runs. Last time I went I was up over 200* because of the drive there, and could not get the temp down. I tried letting the car sit, and I also tried turning the key once to get the fan on but it wouldn't. It had to be started. My fan automatically comes on at 180, so I will also put it on while in line for the next run to keep the temp below that so that the temp doesn't reach 180 and kick on the fan at the launch. I'm not saying this is the best way, but it does exactly what I need it to do. My brother had his hooked up for years without a problem. I hope mine does to.