95 with sporadic starting problem?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,638
Likes: 326
From: Greenville SC
95 with sporadic starting problem?
I posted this years go but no one had same problem.
Once or twice a yr, I try to start car and lights, fan, etc come on but engine doesn't even try to turn over. I will walk away maybe 15 mins, few hrs, etc then try it again, and it starts right up!
Think the ignition tumbler for key has worn spots? But then it seems as it almost resets something after time passes, as it starts right up later.
Once or twice a yr, I try to start car and lights, fan, etc come on but engine doesn't even try to turn over. I will walk away maybe 15 mins, few hrs, etc then try it again, and it starts right up!
Think the ignition tumbler for key has worn spots? But then it seems as it almost resets something after time passes, as it starts right up later.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Try cleaning the chip on your key with some alcohol. If its dirty, it can affect the voltage or whatever it is that matches the VATS requirement.
Also, make sure your battery terminals are good and secure, as well as grounds. They can also get dirty or vibrate loose over time.
I have experienced both of these conditions.
Also, make sure your battery terminals are good and secure, as well as grounds. They can also get dirty or vibrate loose over time.
I have experienced both of these conditions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
You can prove it is the contacts in the ign lock that make contact with the pellet by unplugging the 2 pin connector on the wires coming from above the steering column and connecting a resistor the same value as the pellet across the 2 pin connector in the wiring harness which goes to the VATS decoder. Also, it could be a defective clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at the base of the gear shift if automatic). You can unplug this switch and connect a jumper across it and attempt a start.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
You can clean the contacts in the lock cylinder. You use a long wooded q-tip and alcohol. The reason for the wooden one is it has a tight cotton weave and is thinner than the basic double sided q-tip. The long length give better visibility also.
Don’t get to aggressive, just a few wipes (1/4 in) on each side with a wet tip. You can see the contacts with a good light.
If it is VATS it should reset in about 3 minutes. A 15 minute wait will not tell you anything, it's too long.
There is also a possibility the starter (solenoid) is bad. Listen for any click or noise from the starter.
Don’t get to aggressive, just a few wipes (1/4 in) on each side with a wet tip. You can see the contacts with a good light.
If it is VATS it should reset in about 3 minutes. A 15 minute wait will not tell you anything, it's too long.
There is also a possibility the starter (solenoid) is bad. Listen for any click or noise from the starter.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,638
Likes: 326
From: Greenville SC
No, have not had time to spend on it, it is a 6 speed, not sure where the switch is even located. This is something that happens maybe once a year, sometimes more, sometimes less. I would like to correct the issue, but don't want to spend major time or $ on it either. It is so sporadic, it is hard to diagnose. Since it is fine now, not sure doing any of these things will tell me if that is the problem or not.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Let me just make you aware of a situation that I am currently working and may possibly apply to you.
Last week I replaced my lock cylinder and had to get 3 new keys cut. My key pellet is #6 at 1470 ohms nominal resistance. All my OLD keys measure 1470 ohms.
Only one of my new keys measure 1470 ohms. Number 2 key measures 1467 ohms and works OK. And number 3 key measures 1463 ohms and works only part (50/50) of the time. It sets off VATS and the car will not crank and I know there is no problem with the car. When I use my 1470 ohm key all works all the time.
Even though 1463 is well within the tolerance range of what the key pellet should be, the CCM does not like it as I think it is right on the fence of working or not working. I am going to get this key replaced by the locksmith but I will measure the pellet before I let him cut the key.
What I'm saying is measure your key resistance, know what the center (nominal) resistance should be and see how close it is. You may be on the edge also of what the CCM is looking for and it from time to time sets off VATS.
JUST A THEORY; the CCM after 18 years may not have the same key resistance range it had when it was new.
Last week I replaced my lock cylinder and had to get 3 new keys cut. My key pellet is #6 at 1470 ohms nominal resistance. All my OLD keys measure 1470 ohms.
Only one of my new keys measure 1470 ohms. Number 2 key measures 1467 ohms and works OK. And number 3 key measures 1463 ohms and works only part (50/50) of the time. It sets off VATS and the car will not crank and I know there is no problem with the car. When I use my 1470 ohm key all works all the time.
Even though 1463 is well within the tolerance range of what the key pellet should be, the CCM does not like it as I think it is right on the fence of working or not working. I am going to get this key replaced by the locksmith but I will measure the pellet before I let him cut the key.
What I'm saying is measure your key resistance, know what the center (nominal) resistance should be and see how close it is. You may be on the edge also of what the CCM is looking for and it from time to time sets off VATS.
JUST A THEORY; the CCM after 18 years may not have the same key resistance range it had when it was new.